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Shearing up to 1/4" aluminum

MarkJM

Plastic
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Location
Utah
Making small aluminum enclosures and need a good way to cleanly shear up to 1/4" aluminum. Looking for a small shear, perhaps 20" maximum width. Any recommendations?
 
A 10" sliding miter saw with a decent carbide blade will give you a 12" crosscut; a 12" sliding miter saw will get you to 14-15". Beyond that, a unisaw.

You can buy aluminum-specific (negative rake, fine tooth) blades, but I haven't yet. I mostly cut thin to very thin aluminum (.060, .040, aluminum-composite panel), and in small and sporadic enough quantity that burr cleanup is easier than changing a blade would be anyway.
 
Just to add a 1/4" capacity x 4 foot width shear is a pretty specialized (small) machine. Most shops wanting to invest in that level of thickness capacity want to shear steel sheet and want to go longer as well.

Its not that the same principles can't be applied to a 20" width but I don't think you're going to find very many of them. There just isn't a large population clamoring for that type of machine.
 
IME - You'll be very lucky to get a clean edge with a shear @ 1/4'' thick.

Table type panel saw with the correct blade would be my choice.
 
yeah i second the above, over here in the uk i have only ever seen custom stuff for that width - thickness. Typical 1/4" will be 8' wide as std here at the smallest, 10' probably being just as common

That said, some of the larger iron workers probably are getting towards that width and would have no issue with that thickness.
 
I've cut aluminum sheet and 1/4" plate with my bog standard Milwaukee panel saw. With bog standard wood blade. Always worked pretty well. Until the one time the piece caught and it was launched across the shop. Quit using it after that. I think the issue is the rollers at the bottom of the saw are placed too far apart. A fence or many more rollers would probably help. I wouldn't do this for production.
 
A very large iron worker may have a 20+" shear that would easily do .250 aluminum. $$$. At some point soon I plan on taking a Unisaw and converting it to metal, steel and aluminum. I'll make a big sled to sit on it and plenty of safety features to keep eyes and fingers intact. It will have a MQL mist unit on it as aluminum can clog up blades.
 
buy it sheared to size if you don't have a shear or find someone local with a shear. Shearing is low value add work.....the people doing it don't get to charge much.

or if/when volumes dictate, buy a 1/4" shear. you'll want it big anyway, else you won't be able to work with full sheets
 
You might like plasma results enough. You can run a belt sander across the edge quickly to deburr it.


Thanks everyone for your advice. I bought a titanium-carbide tipped blade for my table saw and it worked like a charm. I was quite surprised. I am still looking for a small shear for hobby work, small pieces--too small for a table saw or large shear.
 
A very large iron worker may have a 20+" shear that would easily do .250 aluminum. $$$. At some point soon I plan on taking a Unisaw and converting it to metal, steel and aluminum. I'll make a big sled to sit on it and plenty of safety features to keep eyes and fingers intact. It will have a MQL mist unit on it as aluminum can clog up blades.

An ironworker is really just a fancy hydraulic punch and press at the end of the day so I wonder if anyone has ever made up a shear for a standard hydraulic shop press (preferably either air over or full electric-hydraulic)? Clearly it wouldn't do for a production type setting, but a press will make around the same pressures as an ironworker to shear that size so for occasional use it could be ok and would be just as fast or faster than a saw.
 
The fastest and best way is a good ironworker. then you can bend and punch holes and all kinds of stuff. An ironworker will make you money and that's no bullshit. well worth the $20,000-$30,000 for a good one.

Cheap way would be a worm drive skill saw, eat that stuff right up. edge would look milled.
 
We routinely cut 1/4inch aluminum on the table saw with a non ferrous blade. Other than the typical safety advice about guards and such I would recommend you make sure to guard the motor. One little chip sucked into the cooling vents on the motor can create disaster. Been there done that!!!!:D


Thanks everyone for your advice. I bought a titanium-carbide tipped blade for my table saw and it worked like a charm. I was quite surprised. I am still looking for a small shear for hobby work, small pieces--too small for a table saw or large shear.
 
Thanks everyone for your advice. I bought a titanium-carbide tipped blade for my table saw and it worked like a charm. I was quite surprised. I am still looking for a small shear for hobby work, small pieces--too small for a table saw or large shear.

Having a fence accessory that keeps the stock from slipping underneath it makes the thin stuff a lot safer.

laminate-cutting auxiliary fence
 
used to cut 3/8 6061t6 plate with a milwaukee right angle gear drive circular saw with no problems lots of lube .Freud (SP) 60 tooth blade.
i dont think you would have any problem on a Good table saw
 








 
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