Sheldon Lathe Questions

Hello. As you can see, I'm new here, but not to online forums. I am a hobbiest antique car restorer with a general overall knowledge of machine work. I just acquired a Sheldon EM-56-P lathe to use in my home garage for antique car restoration stuff. See the pics. Sorry for the poor quality pics. I am in the process of renovating my garage and only have 2 light fixtures currently. The garage isn't even done and I'm already starting to fill it...LOL.

I have read the Sheldon page over at lathes.co.uk. The story with this lathe is it was owned by a guy I used to work for while in high school who used it sparingly in his home shop. He recently had some unfortunate health circumstances and was forced to downsize so I made a deal on the lathe with his family. It was only 1/2 a mile from my house, which was handy. I do not know the history before that-but I am going to try and find out. I got some limited tooling with it, a 3 jaw, two 4 jaws, a face plate and a bunch of dogs, some centers and other stuff-I haven't really dug through the box entirely yet.

My plan is to clean it up, repaint and set it up to use in my home shop. Right now I am interested in finding a set of collets for it. Being inexperienced, I am unsure of what questions I need to be asking and specifications I need to be looking at in order to locate and ascertain if collets I find on the internet will fit. I can tell you the bore through the headstock is 1 3/8" which by my limited research so far will have some determining factor on the size collet I can use...I think. R5 or R8?

I would also like to get a quick change tool post. I am assuming these are fairly standardized and universal.

Thank you for your time, and I look forward to learning some new stuff here on this site.

You need to put location in your profile.. Forum rules.............

Been ~35 years since I ran one..

Ours were surely 50's vintage, And I THINK threaded spindles.. I do not remember Cam locks..

A couple had taper attachments..

5C collets and wheel closer, also had a Jacobs rubberflex chuck and collets available.

I liked it, compared to SB and Clausings.. Nice sized cross slide, and compound dials.. Simple, reliable, belt drive system...

Tailstock quill/ram a little skinny though...

Straight forward design.. Has a sacrificial fiber gear, in leadscrew drivetrain...

High school machine shop in Boeing country...

I believe there is a Sheldon Yahoo group out there, with some ex Sheldon factory types around..

I have an older version EXL. Im also using it for hobby purposes. I agree the tailback isn't as stout as it should or could be compared to the rest of the machine. Since I got mine about a decade ago I feel I couldn't do without it. Mine has a L00 spindle large bore or so the literature shows. The yahoo group is priceless but the website is torture if using a phone tablet etc. Lots of paper and the first should be the Army manual.
Personally I wouldn't put power to it if you plan on refinishing it. Once you turn it on you won't refinish it because you won't want it to be down. That I guarantee you. I agree that using the TP you got with the machine is the best start point. I ended up getting a phase I Chinese unit and I'm barely OK with that. I despise chinese.
I would get a vfd first absolutely and get rid of all the other electrical stuff. I still have my original peerless motor waiting for remounting is need be.
Find out what spindle you have and report back. The serial number should be on the tag/stamped on the right side of the bed.
Nice lathe. I'd like to have a cabinet that has working drawers on the right side. My cabinet drawers have a midget pulling on the back of them. Does it have a taper attachment?
Second thought maybe checking the lathe for wear isn't a bad idea??

thermite said:

Confirm this, but Tony's site indicates you probably have the D1-4 spindle nose. Each of your 'loose' chucks and faceplates should have three pins sticking out the back, each with a semicircular notch in it.

Click to expand...

Thank you for the in-depth info. I am familiar with what you describe. The Mondarch lathe I usually use at a friends shop has this type of design. My lathe does not. The chuck/faceplate threads onto the spindle.

As far as the QCTP, I understand what you are saying.

challenger said:

I would get a vfd first absolutely and get rid of all the other electrical stuff.

Does it have a taper attachment?

Second thought maybe checking the lathe for wear isn't a bad idea??

Click to expand...

I neglected to mention in my post that I had intended to use a VFD. I've already been scouting them out on the internet. I do HVAC work as my profession so I may wait and see what I can score out of the dumpster prior to shelling out $$.

It does have a taper attachment.

I assumed when I looked at it that there would be some appreciable amount of wear. I confess I did not try to measure it.

There is a very active Sheldon Lathe Group over on Yahoo groups- you should go check that out for info on your lathe. Welcome to PM.
Dan

Purchased a Sheldon EM-56-P Today

It appears to be a great lathe, and I was able to witness it in operation before purchasing. The controls are foreign to me; the Taiwanese lathe I have experienced is quite different.

I would really like to find a manual, so any leads to purchase or download a manual would be appreciated.

The chuck threads onto the spindle. It appears that it requires a spanner wrench to remove it. Is that correct. I am hoping to locate a 5C collet closer.

post a pic of your lathe...Member bmikkalson knows them inside out and can possibly provide info on it.

That vintage a lathe probably the max rpm is too low for efficient carbide tool use. This means a QCTP may not really be a good choice. High Speed Steel is better suited to you lathe.
A QCTP and multiple tool holders can quickly cost more then you spent for the lathe. You really should have a lantern tool post at least for weird one off jobs.
Bill D

As Bill D noted, you will rarely be able to use carbide efficiently, I think that the top speed on my EXL-56B is 1600 RPM. But with HSS tooling, I've turned diameters as small as 1/8 with fine results - just takes a bit longer.

Although your Sheldon will readily use 5C collets, Thermite points out a good way to use ER-40 collets, which in "some ways" are better than the 5C system and often a lot less expensive. I hang an ER-40 (with the back of the collet chuck cut off so that there is a through hole) in the 4-jaw occasionally. It works fine except that there's more overhang and the angular alignment with the spindle is only as good as the chuck jaws.

Sheldons are nice lathes and the integral taper attachment is convenient since it never has to be installed/removed. Mine had a steady and follower rest in one of the cabinet drawers but the steady appeared to have come from a 13 inch South Bend and required some modification.

No matter what QCTP you select, don't throw away the lantern and Armstrong/Williams tool holders, if the lathe came with them. You will be sure to need them in some sitation where you have to sneak into an almost inaccessible feature !

Dunno about the one you bought but, in back gear, mine sounds like a cement mixer with a bagful of ball bearings. Works fine though - shoot it with motorcycle chain lube every once in a while and let the stuff dry on the gears.

Lovely lathe, check out the Sheldon lathe forums on yahoo.
I have replacement way wipes for your machine also.

This is a bit OT but I'd like to thank the OP for posting photos of his lathe. I worked for Sheldon at the facility on Knox (behind Houston Foods) when they went out of business just before Christmas. That was about 35 years ago and this thread took me back there for a bit. It was nice to see the machines are still running and cared for. Apologies for sidetracking an otherwise informative thread. Hope you get things sorted.

Bill D said:

That vintage a lathe probably the max rpm is too low for efficient carbide tool use. This means a QCTP may not really be a good choice. High Speed Steel is better suited to you lathe.
A QCTP and multiple tool holders can quickly cost more then you spent for the lathe. You really should have a lantern tool post at least for weird one off jobs.
Bill D

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I don't understand what the use of carbide tooling has to do with a quick change tool post? I have a Sheldon MW-56-p and a Seneca Falls Star #20. Both of them have a QCTP. The Sheldon uses a BXA and the Seneca Falls uses an AXA. I do use carbide on the Sheldon. It has a max speed of 2,200 rpm You can buy a Phase II setup with a number of different tool holders for around $300.00.

http://www.phase2plus.com/details.a...MI6K23s9mO2AIVkLfACh11fAVHEAAYASAAEgJjXfD_BwE

If you don't want to spend that much there's a setup from Shars that costs about $200.00.

Search results for: 'bxa tool post set'

Personally both of mine are Phase II. However I have a number of tool holders for each from Shars. Individual tool holders from Shars are $15.00 - $25.00 depending on the size and function. I think either would be more than adequate for a small commercial or hobby shop. The truth be known I used Aloris tooling at work for over 20 years. When I outfitted my own shop I couldn't afford their prices. I've been using the Phase II tool posts nearly 20 years, and they are just as accurate as the Aloris I used in the past. They may not last 30 years in a production environment, but in a hobby shop they'll probably last a lifetime.

As for restoration I would do whatever it takes to make it a functional machine. If you actually intend to use it the machine will get dirty. I wouldn't spend a lot of time on the cosmetics. It's an older machine with experience. I don't have a shop full of beauty queens. They get dirty, then they get cleaned. The nice thing is that every machine in the place can be used without fear of damaging the paint, or worrying about whether it will still be pretty when it's finished making a part.

My MW-56-P uses 5C collets. It came with the drawbar, collet adaptor for the spindle nose, and a nose protector. I made a collet chuck for my Seneca Falls. It came in a kit form from the Metal Lathe website:

http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/MLA21.html

It is extremely accurate, and was a fun project. The kit costs about $120.00 plus shipping.

If you're looking for an inexpensive and reliable way to power your machine look at The American Rotary Phase Converter brand static converters. They are currently on sale either on their eBay store or from the factory. A 1-3 hp model is selling for $45.50. I have 2 of them in the shop.

Digital Smart Series Static Phase Converter 1/2 -3 HP American Rotary DS 1/2-3 | eBay

One powers the Sheldon, which gets used on a daily basis. The other powers a Racine Power Hacksaw that gets limited use. They also have a 3-5 hp model that sells for $47.60

Digital Smart Series Static Phase Converter 3-5 HP American Rotary DS 3-5 | eBay

As mentioned there is a wealth of information about Sheldon machines on the Yahoo Sheldon website.

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups...lYwN2dGwEc2xrA3ZnaHAEc3RpbWUDMTUwMTc4MjMxOA--

In the "files" section there are a number of manuals, sales brochures, and other information of interest. The moderator is a gentleman by the name of John Knox. He was an engineer for Sheldon from the early 1950's through the early 1980's. He is quite knowledgeable on the machines, and eager to help current owners.

Have patience when you go to the site. First off you have to join as a member which may take a day or so. When you do enter the site continue to have patience. It is extremely slow by todays standards, but contains a ton of information that will be extremely useful.

projectnut said:

....As for restoration I would do whatever it takes to make it a functional machine. If you actually intend to use it the machine will get dirty. I wouldn't spend a lot of time on the cosmetics. It's an older machine with experience. I don't have a shop full of beauty queens. They get dirty, then they get cleaned. The nice thing is that every machine in the place can be used without fear of damaging the paint, or worrying about whether it will still be pretty when it's finished making a part...

Click to expand...

Couldn't agree more. I don't understand the compulsion to pretty up old iron, these things wear well-deserved battle scars ! Besides, after disassembling/cleaning/painting/reassembling, a less-experienced individual may well have a machine on his hands that doesn't function to the standards it did when he bought it.

Being a threaded spindle, you'll need a 5C collet adapter and a threaded collar. The adapter adapts from what some people call a "short MT5" to the 5C taper. If you have one,it's about 3-4 inches long, tapered inside and out, and has an index pin inside. The threaded collar screws onto the spindle before inserting the adapter, and is used to remove the adapter. The threaded collar has two spanner wrench holes on the perimeter.

Spanner Wrench & 5C Collet Closer

rose359 said:

It appears to be a great lathe, and I was able to witness it in operation before purchasing. The controls are foreign to me; the Taiwanese lathe I have experienced is quite different.

I would really like to find a manual, so any leads to purchase or download a manual would be appreciated.

The chuck threads onto the spindle. It appears that it requires a spanner wrench to remove it. Is that correct. I am hoping to locate a 5C collet closer.

Click to expand...

I too need both a spanner wrench and I am hoping to get a 5C collet closer. I have a Sjorgen 5C collet closer, but it is a D1-4. Let me know if you know of any available. Thanks!

post a pic! We love to see the machines.

Regarding the lighting Costco has 4" twin tube looking LED lights for $19.99 now until Christmas or maybe new years. Regardless of your lighting plans you should buy at least two for task lighting. Personally I would buy 5-6 for overall lighting. You can always return them if not needed. After the sale they will be about double that price.
Bill D

This is another OT posting but I have to ask how difficult it is to find chucks that fit the spindle nose without the adapter plate? I'd have to look but I think I still have an original Buck 4 jaw from Knox Ave. that was part of NOS for the lathes. I kept it around for use but all the lathes I've had always came with chucks and so it's just sat in the original box from Buck. Not trying to generate a sale, just asking about tooling.

EM-56-P Photos

rose359 said:

It appears to be a great lathe, and I was able to witness it in operation before purchasing. The controls are foreign to me; the Taiwanese lathe I have experienced is quite different.

I would really like to find a manual, so any leads to purchase or download a manual would be appreciated.

Click to expand...