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Sherwin Williams 646 expoy paint

Sendit

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 2, 2016
I know some people have using this to repaint their machines, can anyone post some pictures please?

I was told it would lay flat and be smooth like car paint. After just doing the base on my Bridgeport it's textured, while it looks cool and "different" not sure if I want to continue and paint the rest of the machine using it.
 
Does it look like an orange peel?

How did you prep the surface?

It could be reacting with something on the surface or sometimes temperature can cause orange peel.

are you spraying, brushing, or rolling?
 
Does it look like an orange peel?

How did you prep the surface?

It could be reacting with something on the surface or sometimes temperature can cause orange peel.

are you spraying, brushing, or rolling?

Roll,
Surface was sanded, bondo, sanded, laquer thinner to clean.

It doesn't look like orange peel.

image I pulled off the net.

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DONT BRUSH IT. It "tears/streaks/drags". I either roll it for a thick coat (Blanchard guards), or sprayed it on a recent aluminum water wheel project (help, thinned approx 30% with Sherwin thinner).
 
If you want some advice with spraying and equipment just ask.

Whenever I use a roller the intention is to get a textured finish. A texture roller which you probably have seen in the stores is sometimes called a carpet roller. I have had results that looked pretty awful (like picture #2) in a spray session and left the spray booth in disgust. After returning the following day I could see my reflection on the surface ( a vertical hanging piece).

If you are after a nice clean mirror finish then spraying is the way to go. A plastic drape with a wet floor would substitute for a spray booth. You then you will find that as the surface becomes flatter, it will show dust and foreign matter more easily. The best surface is obtained when the prep is clean, the paint environment is clean, air circulation, proper paint gun techniques.
 
Don't have a quality gun or a large compressor. I have . Roller was a nylon/ploy 3/8 nap, exactly what the data sheet called for.


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I suspect that either you did not have it thinned/reduced enough for the conditions. Did you do it in the sun and the paint set up so fast it could not properly level?
 
I suspect that either you did not have it thinned/reduced enough for the conditions. Did you do it in the sun and the paint set up so fast it could not properly level?

I rolled it, using the recommended roller. I was told only use thinner/reducer if I plan to spray it.


However when I bought it, the girl behind the counter said to brush or roll only and it would still produce smooth finish (using a roller. Painted in the shop, was around 75-80 with the door up

I'm hoping I can spray it with a cheap gun.
 
Sometimes you have to adjust for conditions on the fly...

You can get a pretty decent spray gun at Harbor Freight very inexpensively. I've done most of my machine painting with one over the last few years. So cheap on sale they are almost not worth cleaning!
 
However when I bought it, the girl behind the counter said to brush or roll only and it would still produce smooth finish (using a roller. Painted in the shop, was around 75-80 with the door up

I'm hoping I can spray it with a cheap gun.

The girl? Do you think she ever painted anything in her life? Cheap gun? No comment. Get a decent gun and you will look forward to using it the next time.

I have always found the need to reduce my mixes, even when rolling. Since your film is thicker with a brush or roller it is setting up without getting the chance to flatten out. Think about it. Those humps you see can be thought of as very large paint droplets. When you spray the droplets are very much smaller. But if the spray gun distance is too far from the surface you will get the orange peel effect because not enough of the solvent reaches the surface. If you are too close then the film is thick and uneven, it may flatten out or look like crap.

I think with some practice you can get what you want. You can always sand away what doesn't look good and build up the surface with repeat coats. That's the hard of doing it. You won't be the first person who did it that way.
 
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Cheap gun, decent but not crazy prep.

This photo was taken months ago. The sign was NOT placed there to make a point in this post! :)


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The girl? Do you think she ever painted anything in her life? Cheap gun? No comment. Get a decent gun and you will look forward to using it the next time.

I have always found the need to reduce my mixes, even when rolling. Since your film is thicker with a brush or roller it is setting up without getting the chance to flatten out. Think about it.

Did you spray Macropxy with the HF gun or something else? The tip is 1.4mm and manufacture recommends 1.8 tip.
 
Did you spray Macropxy with the HF gun or something else? The tip is 1.4mm and manufacture recommends 1.8 tip.

Please explain: "Macropxy" ??????. Did you find a gun that you are asking about before buying???? A 1.8 tip is large enough for thick primer but not for finish work.

I went to HF once to look at their mini-gun. My opinion is that it's a POS copy of a USA design. Always makes me mad when I see our USA stuff copied by those foreigners. Don't they have any ideas of their own? If you have to buy it then it will require some tuning up. I remember reading a article on the net about some guy tuning it up with teflon tape. JFC.
 
Please explain: "Macropxy" ??????. Did you find a gun that you are asking about before buying???? A 1.8 tip is large enough for thick primer but not for finish work.

It's what Sherwin Williams calls their epoxy

Macropoxy 646 Fast Cure Epoxy - Protective & Marine

I was told you can't spray it but by rolling it with roller they gave me it would lay down flat and smooth. However when I called and talk with the rep. he said you can by thinning it out no more than 10% by volume. So 24oz and 2.4 oz of thinner I would be good to go. He said I could sand the high spots to get it smooth again, not taking the epoxy off. Then spray it with a HVLP gun, looking at HF and Walmart for one. Just need to use it paint the machine.

This epoxy is the only coat I'm putting on it as you can tint it to any color you wish.
 
It's what Sherwin Williams calls their epoxy

Macropoxy 646 Fast Cure Epoxy - Protective & Marine

I was told you can't spray it but by rolling it with roller they gave me it would lay down flat and smooth. However when I called and talk with the rep. he said you can by thinning it out no more than 10% by volume. So 24oz and 2.4 oz of thinner I would be good to go. He said I could sand the high spots to get it smooth again, not taking the epoxy off. Then spray it with a HVLP gun, looking at HF and Walmart for one. Just need to use it paint the machine.

This epoxy is the only coat I'm putting on it as you can tint it to any color you wish.

If you have to get one then buy it at HF. Screw Walmart, don't support. If you have problems with it then maybe I can help. You should consider it a throw away gun. At $15.99 they don't get any cheaper. Costs less than a bag of apples.
 
I use their smaller gun to Cerakote my firearms

Is it much difference in a 1.4 to a 1.8 mm tip? Basically would it cause any problems?

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Is it much difference in a 1.4 to a 1.8 mm tip? Basically would it cause any problems?

The 1.8mm tip is for thick primers and moving out a lot of paint at a fast rate. I don't have a tip that large. I think the largest one I have is 1.5mm which I might have used once. It depends on how thick your mix is. I always reduce for the consistency of milk.

The HF gun is copy of the Devilbiss SRI (SRI/Pro). It's anodized color is purple, same as the SRI/Pro. Don't those people have any imagination? Do you think they pulled the color purple out of the air, it was deliberate. So I say F*** Em.

Did you know that Dr. Devilbiss developed the spray gun to spray perfume on women. :drool5::drool5:

From your pictures it looks like you really don't need any help from me. But I don't mind.
 








 
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