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what metal to use in making a tap?

Markusfu

Stainless
Joined
Sep 15, 2002
Location
ohio-USA
I tried to use the search function for " what metal would you use for making a tap," and a message comes up saying there weren't eoough words in the message????


Anyway....... what metal would you use in making a tap??

It is 15mm .50 mm pitch.

I'm thinking drill rod might not be good for such a fine thread??


Markus
 
15x.50mm...? You sure that's a thread and not just a rough finish, lol. I cut some 8mmx.5 on some mechanical pencil bodies and thought they were fine, but wow.

No idea what you'd use besides drill rod, if you are tapping steel, anyway. One problem will be maintaining the thread while hardening and keeping it from going out of tolerance due to dimensional change. Only other option would be to rough out slightly oversize in drill rod, harden, temper, and then grind the threads to finish. Not sure exactly how to go about that, but it seems the logical way to do it.
 
Depends on what material you're cutting with it, and how long you want it to last.
Not to mention tapping speed, but we'll assume hand tapping.
 
II'm thinking drill rod might not be good for such a fine thread??

i haven't made one that fine either, but if not drill rod, what else?....i'm curious why you think it wouldn't work (assuming its being used on mild steel, AL or someother non hardened type metal)

thats how i'd do it, regular old O1
 
I would make it out of O-1. Then when I went to heat treat it I would put it in a piece of stainless tubing with a piece of wood, then seal the tube up tight then heat the tube red hot and hold for about ten minutes and plunge in water. Draw as needed.
The reason for the stainless steel tubing and the piece of wood is to burn up all the oxygen in the stainless tube so you won't get fire scale. The reason for plunging in water rather that oil as you would normally do with O-1 is to get the quench time to what it would be if you quenched in oil.

Or you could just go here: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000089712220
 
I would make it out of O-1. Then when I went to heat treat it I would put it in a piece of stainless tubing with a piece of wood seal the tube up tight then heat the tube red hot and hold for about ten minutes and plunge in water.

How do you seal the stainless tube with a combustable inside without it becoming, essentially, a pipe bomb?
 
I made a tap for the 3C collet tube on my South Bend lathe. I made it from a piece of A2 hardened and drawn to 60 rc. I used it to tap the .640 x 26tpi thread in a piece of 4140 DOM tubing. It worked fine and left nice crisp threads.
 
How do you seal the stainless tube with a combustable inside without it becoming, essentially, a pipe bomb?

Didn't you ever do that experiment at school where you put a burning candle on a holder sitting in a dish of water, then cover it with a glass vessel (inverted) and the water gets sucked up into the glass?
 
"How do you seal the stainless tube with a combustible inside without it becoming, essentially, a pipe bomb?"

Well what is in there to explode? The point of putting the piece of wood in there is to burn up the oxygen. After the first minute or so you heat the wood up and it will ignite and burn until it uses up all of the oxygen, you are then left with a piece of charcoal and (I think) carbon monoxide there is nothing to explode.

Also you wouldn't have to use tubing you could do the same thing with stainless steel foil that is sold for heat treating. Just make sure the package is sealed up tight.
 
"How do you seal the stainless tube with a combustible inside without it becoming, essentially, a pipe bomb?"

Well what is in there to explode? The point of putting the piece of wood in there is to burn up the oxygen.

I must have missed the bus on the day of the candle experiment, but this makes sense. At first glance it just seems like one of those things that's "not quite right..."


Thanks,

James
 
Couldnt you just take a drill blank that is already hard gring the threads in it and flute it out. Then you wouldnt have to fool with hardening or deal with warpage It would be done.
 
taps

hey guys - thanks for the info


I see that victor supply does have the 15 mm - .5 pitch in a plug tap but not in a bottoming tap, but I could simply grilnd the end off.


Hope---you mentioned frinding the threads on an already hardened rod.. Please explain to a novice how you grind threads that fine??


PS--I checked with a supplier in Akron,oh and their catalogue jumps from 14 mm to 16 mm as do many other suppliers.
 
Yes, I know that, but an 8x.5 (or .50) looks like a rough finish. A 15x.5 (or .50).... that's nearly invisible.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
15x.5 and 8x.5 is the same as far as fine threads go. Both are .5mm from peak to peak. A larger diameter such as 800x.5 is still .5 peak to peak. .5 metric threads are 50.8 threads per inch and would still be 50.8 tpi. at 6' diameter. Still a pretty fine thread.
 
I know from personal experience that putting just a little too much brown paper in a stainless foil envelope wil burst the envelope. Gas must keep evolving as the paper is made into carbon by the high heat.

I've made dozens of taps for odd antique or left hand threads,up to about 1 1/2" dia.. 01 drill rod is the safest over W1. No need to put it in an envelope as long as you don't over heat it. Go just above red hot,when it turns orange. If you go to A2,definitely put it in an envelope as snug as you can,with a piece of brown paper 1/2 the size of a postage stamp.Draw to a dark brown color for either metal. You can grind the end of the tap in several ways. You can grind it into a square or a triangle
,both of which taper out to nothing in,say,1/2" for your size tap. They will cut just fine.Just grind the square or triangle flat sided,no flutes or fancy stuff.The threads must be ground down to thread depth at the front of the tap,and taper out to full thread.

In past centuries,taps were made in those shapes. Triangular gives a more acute edge,but square works too,and gives stronger edges.
 
Ralph, yes, it is the same pitch, but pitch is usually increased relative to diameter. Take your example using a rounded off figure of 51tpi as an example... a 1/8" part with 51tpi would appear to be a small fine thread screw. A 6" part with that thread thrown on a table and asked to be reproduced could easily have the threads overlooked, as they would be so fine relative to such a large diameter that they could easily be mistaken for a section left rough turned.

This is, in approximate standard conversion, a 5/8-51 thread. Super, SUPER fine thread.

sch, nice detective work! $16 is certainly a bargain for that piece.
 








 
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