reaming skid loader pin bores

It is a buddy's Case 1840. he wants to sell it. I was rather interested myself, but man it's beat up.

I am now offering to fix it for my other buddy who wants it, in trade for using it a while.

I am considering using my 1-3/16" bridge reamer (reverse spiral taper tip that transitions to straight sides) to simply ream all the 1" pin holes to 1-3/16.

the holes are worn really really bad. 1-3/16 may not even clean them up completely!!! the original pins are long gone, there are now installed 1" bolts. It's probably been few a few sets of bolts.

I think this is an appropriate fix at this point in the machines life.

just wondering what all of your thoughts are on repairing it. should I remove the cylinders and bore and sleeve? I cannot think of anything that will accomplish that just reaming in place will not. and I can remove the lift arm frame and get it in my mill anyway. to small and pointless to set up to line bore



Thanks.

On my ~60 year old tractor I used the handy dandy Dremel tool, it took awhile but I got there. Made new pins from W1 drill rod in their annealed state, drilled the cotter pin holes with a dewalt drill. I oil them from time to time but it works great.

Using an edge tool I would simply make sure there are no hardened surfaces left in there .. my bucket had hardened bushings still left, the dremel just kept going without dulling.

Screw the ream idea. you get a welder/machinist and blow that stuff into dust with a nice cutting torch. make the pins and bushings. weld the bushing/ pin bosses in with some care then weld the unit up so it can take stock bushings again.

I call my method flame bore and sleeve, just like the guys who made it in the first place.

that is a not a big deal in a job shop. Most times the job was way the hell up in the hills and not in a shop so you have to be able to work in the field.

You go look at it, go machine the parts and weld them just like they are new. I will overhead weld big machines but dont want any of the meat heads to do anything , go away. Loggers are scary so you send them all away, they break stuff thats huge you have to fix. So you tell them all to go away.

your job is way easy if you can flame cut/machine and weld. Can you do it? Then its as good as done.

fix that tractor and buy it, make a fishing pond and have a drink.

I'm with Oldbiker, wouldn't go near that with a reamer, that's a rebush and pin job how he described.

Believe me it's far quicker, easier and much less painful to cut out the old and weld in new, than it is frigging about trying to make OS oval / f'k knows what shape holes, round - oh yeah, and just for good measure, the old bushes wear off centre - you ain't gonna correct that with a reamer.

My view is skidders are made as throw away machines. In most cases if the pin bores are worn slap out, so is everything else.

But for a quickie fix with oversize pins, I would line ream it. I make a 4' to 6' long mandril for a shell reamer. Go through the bore on the near side to ream the far side. Make a support bushing to carry the reamer shaft. Drive it with a big handheld drill.

I totally understand the torch and weld method, and I have the torch and welder to do that. I totally agree with that on larger machines..... and I appreciate the encouragement that it's not so big a job.

but these are small bores and this little machine does not use any bushings in the loader lift frame or quick couple frame. It only has bushings in the cylinder ends.

I believe I can ream straight enough and I don't care about location that much. but perhaps the bores are beyond 3/16" over and I will be torching anyway.

Thanks

You can make it work with your method. It won't be many hours of operation before something else gives up. Be careful that your repair doesn't wind up on the scrap pile with the rest of the unit. Good Luck, Regards, Clark

dsergison said:

but these are small bores and this little machine does not use any bushings in the loader lift frame or quick couple frame. It only has bushings in the cylinder ends.

Thanks

Click to expand...

Nows your chance to put some in....... and a few m/c'd bushings welded in should be cheaper than a bridge reamer

Worn out machines suck.

That is unless you can find a sucker who will fix/repair the worn out POS in return for using it.

Oldbikerdude has the right idea.

Typically, if one joint is bad, so are all of the rest. The worst will be the joints at the base of the arms, and the pivot for the bucket. Most times the only way to go is to flame cut the original sleeves off and weld in new ones. You can pin them together and weld both sides at once for the best fit.

Also, make sure your new pins have grease zerks and that they are pinned so they only pivot in one side of the joint. Otherwise, you will be repairing both parts of the joint next time.

Now if the cylinder rod ends are worn, that could be a good case for your reaming method. I don't know if a reamer is really the right tool though. Reamers need a good hole to start with. Either way, open them up and press in a liner to accept the factory pins.

Even if you can do the work yourself, I don't know if it is worthwhile. Is the engine and hydrostatic drive OK?

I guess I AM THAT SUCKER.. haha


see i have a whole set of bridge reamers. they are designed to make shitty and misaligned holes into fairly decent bigger holes.. they have a tapered lead in. I got mine very cheap. just because they were cheap. I got them several years ago. so reamer cost is nill. mine is a morse taper shank but many come with a big hex so you can drive them with an air impact.

http://www.holesawsunlimited.com/images/D/P1060843-new.jpg

the engine seems fine. the hydraulics work mostly, except for ridiculous tilt drift. which I would also fix.