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Stub axle Repair

creative25

Plastic
Joined
Apr 4, 2017
I have a toyota 4x4 front stub axle I want to repair.
Bearing seats are worn.
The picture attached is of a new axle just to give an Idea what it looks like.
Question is it viable to repair the surfaces with sleeves.
Or would i loose too much strength?
What would be the minimum wall thickness of a sleeve?
 

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Thanks for the info.
The Problem I am in Namibia and postage from Uk will kill the price.
I can get them in Namibia as well but they are junk play against the bearing is 0.15mm or 0.006" to me that is not acceptible. I could as well drive with the old ones without repairing. Originals are quite pricey.
 
The Problem I am in Namibia and postage from Uk will kill the price.
I can get them in Namibia as well but they are junk play against the bearing is 0.15mm or 0.006" to me that is not acceptible. I could as well drive with the old ones without repairing. Originals are quite pricey.
Loctite ? That stuff works better than you think, and mailing a little bottle of it should be cheap ?

Someone did make stainless steel sleeves for this job but I haven't looked for those in years. They work okay tho. Maybe look in Hemmings or ask someone who does auto restoration.

Speedi-Sleeve ! that was the name ... (or very similar. The meat ram is getting flaky)
 
Thanks
I like the Idea of the Stainless sleeves.
I have my own Lathe would be able to do it myself.
What wall thickness do they have?
In order to not loose too much strength I was thinking of making them quite thin walled and press and glue them on.

How would Loctite work? Build the shaft up with Loctite, then machine to spec?
Will it not wear out, I drive mainly on heavily corrugated roads. Lots of shaking and knocks from potholes etc.
 
Loctite ? That stuff works better than you think, and mailing a little bottle of it should be cheap ?

No. It does not. I've fixed piles of bearing journals that were previously "repaired" with loctite.

Weld up the journals and turn them back to size. It's a sub 2 hour job for a competent shop.
 
Well, I wouldn't do this, but seeing how your location precludes getting a new part cheaply...
Look at how the crankshaft welders work.
You should be able to preheat, and set up a makeshift turntable to rotate the spindle under a MIG welder torch.
Heat input should be kept low, i would suggest the small .023 wire with gas (no fluxcore here) and put an
on small bead.
 
Is there any engine re builders within reach?

Submerged welding to build up journals then grind to size is a common repair that they can do in sleep but limitatiins.

For a bearing seat fine but oil seal not so much as the surface may have bubbles.

If oil seal the OD may be possible to be slightly large so a sleeve could be made by turning ID first and cling to a mandrel made of scrap and turned to size in the chuck.

Turn OD to size and polish before removing from mandrel as well as check fit with seals.

ID needs to be slightly small then heat it to allow it to slide over hub for shrink fit.

Make a narrow practice band and practice hub to work on correct size and process.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
I don't want to heat up this axle.
My idea is to machine the bearing seats down by about 0.5mm 0.02 make a thin walled bushes for both bearing seats.
Press and glue them on and then machine them nearly to speck and polisch them till they are on spec.
Is there any problem with such thin bushes? Will they come loose?
 
I would think a thin bushing would fold trying to install. I personally would build up with tig brazin with some aluminum bronze. Then turn to spec.
 
Interesting.
So in this case to make bushes is out of Question.
What about getting a place that repairs hydraulic cylinders to chrome plate and grind to spec?
 
The speedy sleeves I've used were for seal journals only.

My impression of even much thicker wall sleeves is that even if pressed on they eventually try to walk out of the confined area.
I have made steel sleeves that pressed onto bearing journals that I turned undersize first and after pressing the sleeve on drill radially and pin the sleeve in place with any small steel pin, then finish turn the OD, but that was on solid shaft journals, you will definitely weaken the hub doing that on this.

It doesn't look like a good candidate for a repair to me, but if you weld it and turn it to a good press fit that might tolerate some of the "bubbling" Tony mentioned (Unless Tony meant weld porosity), lathes will rise up over harder areas a few tenths and turn to size in softer areas, depending on the variably localized heat caused by the welding. But bearings like a high percentage of contact area and a narrow range of interferance.

The way to eliminate that "bubbling" might be to grind it to finish size if you have a tool post grinder after turning a little bit oversize.

I hate those things (Tool post grinders) because they usually shorten the life of lathes they are used on.
IMO any way you repair it it will not be as strong as it was, unfortunately, and may not keep bearings as long either.
 
there also is electroless nickel. i never tried to build up 0.07 mm, but maybe its possible.
 
Looks to me chrome would be a good option.
Why would you need a mandrel?
Are things not ground between centers?
 








 
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