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Tapmatic newbie?

DynMetalworks

Plastic
Joined
Dec 8, 2016
Trying out my first Tapmatic on 1/2-13 holes in 5/8" steel. First two holes the tap just drilled the holes out and cut threads in the last 1/8" of the material. I adjusted the clutch to the 1/2-13 mark and am running at 180 rpm with a new tap. What might I be doing wrong? It does not seem to grab and feed the tap like the instructions say it should.
 
Press down a little harder to get the tap to start? The only trick is how you reverse them so they shift cleanly without grinding the gears.
 
Tapmatics don't know when to stop. You have to stop them by pulling up on the quill lever. The Tapmatic will reverse direction and unscrew the tap. However, you HAVE to restrain the Tapmatic's flat handle from moving. My mill has a lug with a 1/4" vertical hole. Handy to hold a piece of rod to keep the Tapmatic's handle in place.

Run at about 1/3 drilling speed.

metalmagpie
 
Dyn, to get the most effective feedback more information is usually helpful, as in, What machine are you using ? What 5/8 steel ? What kind of tap? New Tapmatic or found in the bottom of a rusty pile? Which model?

If you were to, let’s say, have some case hardened steel, and or a cheap tap, and go in with too little feed pressure, it might do something like that. Is it reversing out cleanly? Do you have the anti rotation arm (“flat handle” mm referenced above) properly mounted? Maybe try a smaller tap like a 1/4-20 to get the feel for it first. Are you using lube, and is it heating up and smoking?
 
Lots of questions
Which model Tapmatic, they only make 5!
What kind of machine?
What kind of material?
What kind of tap? You should be using a gun tap for through holes or a spiral flute for blind holes.
What kind and volume of coolant?
How many holes?
JR
 
Push harder to get it to bite at the start.

My initial thought is you're using a really dull bottoming tap.
 
R7 Tapmatic, lightly used
Bridgeport J-head
HR steel
Taper starting tap
Slugger coolant
4 holes
Using a quill stop

I tried it again this morning starting the tap faster and with more pressure. It bit right away and worked. I did grind the gear reversing it, but I'm guessing after using it some I'll figure out the technique to reverse smoothly.

Thanks for the replys and help.
 
personally I cannot stand tapmatics, procunier all the way

also that size tap I would tend to just power tap without a tapping head. looooow speed hand on the switch, don't think I've ever broken one doing it that way
 
Short answer, NO

I'm with gutavfson and a lot of other guys here. I just chuck up on the tap and run in slow speed. I don't need no stinkin' tapper.

IMHO, a tapping head is a great thing if you've got hundreds of holes to tap. That's in a drill press, not a BP. By the time you get that thing out, mounted, tap installed, I could have tapped 6 holes.
.JR
 
The big time saver with the heads is how fast they power out of a hole. But yeah unless you have a ton of holes or the tapping heads stays setup in a drill press it’s a pain.
 








 
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