Rockwell/Delta 11X36 lathe

I've located this lathe for sell, locally. I haven't seen it and I don't know what tooling it may come with, how much it costs or what year it is. It sounds like the seller doesn't really know anything about machinery, so I'm "smelling" another possible good deal. In fact, he didn't even know the make and model until he looked at the manual!

I'm interested in getting your opinions of this machine. I understand that parts are hard to come by. If I find it to be clean and with little wear, would you recommend it for a beginner. Keep in mind, I'm not going to be manufacturing engines. Turning screws, facing smaller parts, making tools etc will be most all I would do... oh, and maybe an occassional something or other needing bearings (I assume that requires higher tolerance)

Anyway, I'm interested in your thoughts.

Sherri

If it is in good shape it will be a nice machine for you. I have one and it does a nice job as long as you remember that it is a light machine - so no real heavy cuts.

I have the Rockwell 10"... while it is light, the 11" is heavier. Here is a site with some useful info and pictures. When you go to see the lathe try and get ANY and ALL parts and bits and pieces that may not be directly attached. There may be some incredibly valuable and hard to come by spares in what may look like a box of junk.
The way your luck is going you may even find that it has a taper attachment. Taper attachments are not used often but when you need one....

Look for stuff like a plate that says "Flame Hardened Bed" (right front of main casting). Even though it was optional most examples I have seen come with it.
Look for a collet system: either tube closer or lever closer (and collets).
Look for chucks and face plates.
Look for steady and follow rests (near impossible to find).
Look for any spare gears, steel or brass.
Look for any spare bearings.
Look for carriage stops both plain and micrometer.

My 10" was kinda beat and neglected not from long hard use but from inexperienced and intermittent use. With a bit of work it is no centerfold but it makes good parts without too much trouble. I can't take cuts much heavier than 30-60 thousandths deep in direct drive because mine has only a 3/4 HP motor (standard). Mine came with a Royal tube collet closer and a set of Royal 4C collets, a beat 3 jaw, a good 4 jaw, a face plate and a drive plate, a steady rest (used several times), I found a follow rest (yet to use it), carriage stop, one live and some dead centers, various drive dogs and wrenches, a lantern style tool post and about 2 dozen tool holders.

By adding a lathe (even a small one) to your tool set, between it and the mill, you can now make a huge range of parts with few limitations except in size and some exotic materials.

Post some pics

-DU-

I don't know why Andy says it's "light". It's probably as good as a SB heavy 10, a Logan 12, or my Clausing 5900.

I went from an Atlas/Craftsman Industrial 12" to a 10" Rockwell. The Rockwell was a lot stronger and better lathe.

The knob on the front to engage/disengage the back gear or go to neutral is an attractive feature. Sort of like a geared head lathe.

( BTW ...if you buy it, save your money. I have some of the parts for the metric threading attachment on a shelf in my basement ).

I have a pdf of the US Army manual for the lathe. Send me a PM with your e-mail and I will get you a copy.

Check for parts availabilty from Rockwell before your buy it.

I have one, and they make a great hobby or light production lathe. Mine ran production for years, and now it does a fine job for me.

The good:

It is much heavier and more rigid that other lathes in it's class. The tailstock for a Logan 11/12 or Southbend Heavy 10 will just about fall into the gap between the rails of the Delta-Rockwell 11s. The bed is visibly much more massive in general. They often come with an L00 spindle, and have readily available 5C setups (most often a Royal Lever closer), bed mounted turrets, and production cross slides along with the typical engine lathe apron (including power cross) and MT3 tailstock. Over all, for the cost and footprint, it's a fine lathe that can do some real work, much heavier that the typical 10-12" (or even larger) lathes. Only a handful of similar swing lathes are heavier, like the Monarch 10EE (12" swing) and so on. Sheldon seems another small notch heavier still, but basically they are equivalent for beef. They also often came with hardened beds, meaning the saddle takes most of the wear, and isn't all that hard to "bring back in" if it's not too far gone. Check for rocking/dipping on the near left (headstock side) corner of the apron. It also have a very nice spindle design (as described on Tony's site in the link above).


The bad:

Parts support is long gone. There are 2 common problem areas. The single selector lever has a safety interlock that is supposed to prevent engaging back gear and direct gear simultaneously while under power. However, they get out of adjustment, and the all too common morons will do just that, shearing teeth on the back gear. Not an easy repair and generally spells the end, not worth fixing. (2) 1/4-20 screws will remove the top cover and allow visual inspection of the back gear teeth. The second problem area is in the cone clutch within the apron. The bronze worm wheel teeth on the OD tend to shear off over time. This is usually the result of excess wear accumulating in the cantilever mounted worm allowing it to ride up and accelerate the process. These can be made, and there was a guy selling them a while back, but I don't think there are any remaining. But other than that, they are a very simple machine with little more to go wrong that typical wear of bushings and shafts. Everything except the back gear and the clutch are either pretty much bullet proof (i.e. I've never heard of a bad one), or readily available off the shelf (gears, belts, etc.), or easily made (shafts, bushings, etc.)

A few other niggling concerns, at least to me. Fixed and Follow Steadies are rare if you don't get it with the lathe. So is the taper attach. Also, cross slide way design is not so great. Only ground, not scraped from the factory; and it has no internal oiler to flush and oil it well, nor does it have wipers. The result is that when oiling on the exposed ways, it tends to get crap under it an can abrade badly if not maintained properly. Might want to check this at purchase point. Moglice/Turcite and other repair options exist if it is damaged. I modified mine with pressure injected oil ports and plan to scrape it in, someday... Also, the tailstock is beefy and well made, but only has ~2.5" travel before falling off the screw (still retained). So it can make deep hole drilling laborious. A turret will fix this, as will modifying for a lever TS feed. On the up side, it has a micrometer depth wheel (like cross slide) at 0.100 per rev (10TPI screw).

That's about it. I've been through every nut bolt and screw of mine, and I've got most all the attachments except for follow/fixed steadies and taper attach (still looking!). Generally, I'm very well pleased with it and based on functionality, would never consider trading for a similar SB or Logan. My only complaint is the 1500 rpm top end could stand with a higher red line. And it would be nice to have a bigger spindle through hole. As such, I'm thinking of upgrading to a Mori Seki 850 (or similar). But for a lathe of this size, it's very hard to do better in my opinion.

If you get it (or just want to research), there is a Rockwell Yahoo Group. Pretty slow moving, but I've found some great help there...

David Utidjian said:

I have the Rockwell 10"... while it is light, the 11" is heavier. Here is a site with some useful info and pictures. When you go to see the lathe try and get ANY and ALL parts and bits and pieces that may not be directly attached. There may be some incredibly valuable and hard to come by spares in what may look like a box of junk.
The way your luck is going you may even find that it has a taper attachment. Taper attachments are not used often but when you need one....

Look for stuff like a plate that says "Flame Hardened Bed" (right front of main casting). Even though it was optional most examples I have seen come with it.
Look for a collet system: either tube closer or lever closer (and collets).
Look for chucks and face plates.
Look for steady and follow rests (near impossible to find).
Look for any spare gears, steel or brass.
Look for any spare bearings.
Look for carriage stops both plain and micrometer.

My 10" was kinda beat and neglected not from long hard use but from inexperienced and intermittent use. With a bit of work it is no centerfold but it makes good parts without too much trouble. I can't take cuts much heavier than 30-60 thousandths deep in direct drive because mine has only a 3/4 HP motor (standard). Mine came with a Royal tube collet closer and a set of Royal 4C collets, a beat 3 jaw, a good 4 jaw, a face plate and a drive plate, a steady rest (used several times), I found a follow rest (yet to use it), carriage stop, one live and some dead centers, various drive dogs and wrenches, a lantern style tool post and about 2 dozen tool holders.

By adding a lathe (even a small one) to your tool set, between it and the mill, you can now make a huge range of parts with few limitations except in size and some exotic materials.

Post some pics

-DU-

Click to expand...

Very informative post. Thank you I have a few more questions, though. I've learned a lot but there is much MUCH more!

Collet system: what is "tube closer" and "lever closer"? Are collets for the Rockwells proprietary? I am only familiar with R8s. Is 4C and 5C yet another collet set I'll need to buy??

I'm going to call the guy tomorrow and set up a meeting. He's only about 20 minutes from me. He contacted me through a craigslist wanted ad I placed for a lathe. I assume, he has no listing on it himself. He mentioned that it is one of the cleanest machines I could find. This is a potential lucky strike I doubt I'll buy it tomorrow, but I will take my camera with me and post pics when I return.

Sherri

Fred White said:

I don't know why Andy says it's "light". It's probably as good as a SB heavy 10, a Logan 12, or my Clausing 5900.

I went from an Atlas/Craftsman Industrial 12" to a 10" Rockwell. The Rockwell was a lot stronger and better lathe.

The knob on the front to engage/disengage the back gear or go to neutral is an attractive feature. Sort of like a geared head lathe.

( BTW ...if you buy it, save your money. I have some of the parts for the metric threading attachment on a shelf in my basement ).

I have a pdf of the US Army manual for the lathe. Send me a PM with your e-mail and I will get you a copy.

Check for parts availabilty from Rockwell before your buy it.

Click to expand...

Great! Thanks, Fred. Since I just bought a mill, I'm not really too serious to buy a lathe, but........... if a good deal falls in my lap, I'll be ready.

Sherri

BadDog said:

I have one, and they make a great hobby or light production lathe. Mine ran production for years, and now it does a fine job for me.

The good:

It is much heavier and more rigid that other lathes in it's class. The tailstock for a Logan 11/12 or Southbend Heavy 10 will just about fall into the gap between the rails of the Delta-Rockwell 11s. The bed is visibly much more massive in general. They often come with an L00 spindle, and have readily available 5C setups (most often a Royal Lever closer), bed mounted turrets, and production cross slides along with the typical engine lathe apron (including power cross) and MT3 tailstock. Over all, for the cost and footprint, it's a fine lathe that can do some real work, much heavier that the typical 10-12" (or even larger) lathes. Only a handful of similar swing lathes are heavier, like the Monarch 10EE (12" swing) and so on. Sheldon seems another small notch heavier still, but basically they are equivalent for beef. They also often came with hardened beds, meaning the saddle takes most of the wear, and isn't all that hard to "bring back in" if it's not too far gone. Check for rocking/dipping on the near left (headstock side) corner of the apron. It also have a very nice spindle design (as described on Tony's site in the link above).


The bad:

Parts support is long gone. There are 2 common problem areas. The single selector lever has a safety interlock that is supposed to prevent engaging back gear and direct gear simultaneously while under power. However, they get out of adjustment, and the all too common morons will do just that, shearing teeth on the back gear. Not an easy repair and generally spells the end, not worth fixing. (2) 1/4-20 screws will remove the top cover and allow visual inspection of the back gear teeth. The second problem area is in the cone clutch within the apron. The bronze worm wheel teeth on the OD tend to shear off over time. This is usually the result of excess wear accumulating in the cantilever mounted worm allowing it to ride up and accelerate the process. These can be made, and there was a guy selling them a while back, but I don't think there are any remaining. But other than that, they are a very simple machine with little more to go wrong that typical wear of bushings and shafts. Everything except the back gear and the clutch are either pretty much bullet proof (i.e. I've never heard of a bad one), or readily available off the shelf (gears, belts, etc.), or easily made (shafts, bushings, etc.)

A few other niggling concerns, at least to me. Fixed and Follow Steadies are rare if you don't get it with the lathe. So is the taper attach. Also, cross slide way design is not so great. Only ground, not scraped from the factory; and it has no internal oiler to flush and oil it well, nor does it have wipers. The result is that when oiling on the exposed ways, it tends to get crap under it an can abrade badly if not maintained properly. Might want to check this at purchase point. Moglice/Turcite and other repair options exist if it is damaged. I modified mine with pressure injected oil ports and plan to scrape it in, someday... Also, the tailstock is beefy and well made, but only has ~2.5" travel before falling off the screw (still retained). So it can make deep hole drilling laborious. A turret will fix this, as will modifying for a lever TS feed. On the up side, it has a micrometer depth wheel (like cross slide) at 0.100 per rev (10TPI screw).

That's about it. I've been through every nut bolt and screw of mine, and I've got most all the attachments except for follow/fixed steadies and taper attach (still looking!). Generally, I'm very well pleased with it and based on functionality, would never consider trading for a similar SB or Logan. My only complaint is the 1500 rpm top end could stand with a higher red line. And it would be nice to have a bigger spindle through hole. As such, I'm thinking of upgrading to a Mori Seki 850 (or similar). But for a lathe of this size, it's very hard to do better in my opinion.

If you get it (or just want to research), there is a Rockwell Yahoo Group. Pretty slow moving, but I've found some great help there...

Click to expand...

Like David's post, yours is just FULL of much needed information. I have some followup questions:

1) What is "back gear" and "direct gear"?

2) What is a "lever TS feed"

3) Do you know the spindle bore?

Well, I'm pretty excited about this. It sounds like it is just the machine I'd like to own! If I can cut a good deal, I'll have to clear another spot in my garage. The Bridgeport I just bought was too big. I had no place to put it, so my boyfriend and I are building an 8'X12' "addition" to my house on an existing concrete slab. Geesh, new hobby that requires an addition! All I can say is, "I better find machining to be productive"

Sherri

"Direct" is with the motor pulley driving the spindle in 1:1 (not counting potential initial differential from the Reeve's Drive controlled by the lever or wheel speed control). "Back Gear" is an additional gear reduction (usually, which is the case in the Rockwell) inside the headstock. In this case, when you pull the top plate off, you'll see the belt driven spindle on top. There is another shaft directly below it, and that is the back gear shaft. Look at the teeth on all 4 gears, but usually if it's shed teeth, it will be on the front big gear, sometimes with additional damage on the smaller mating gear. If this is bad, you probably want to walk away unless it is exceptionally well tooled or VERY cheap. In fact, if it's cheap, AND the back gear is bad, the best thing to do is part it out. If this turns out to be the case, and it has a steady or follow rest, or taper attachment, I would appreciate an email or PM. I could also use a second tailstock. I parted out a Rockwell 11" "Turret Lathe" (no threading or normal apron) a while back. I could have made a few bucks on it, but all I wanted was the quick acting cross slide. But the point is that there are enough people out there trying to maintain or rebuild these that parting out is a viable option.

Lever TS (tail stock) feed is simply replacing the tailstock quill (the round part that moves and holds tooling) with a long version that is actuated by a lever rather than a hand wheel and screw. Much faster and easier for drilling deep holes due to the faster and much longer travel, but doesn't work so well with other tooling like centers and such. Making a second lever feed tailstock is why I want another tailstock casting.

The spindle bore is roughly 1.380 with either an MT4.5 or MT5 "stub" taper in the front. Which taper is a matter of some contention as Rockwell did not document it in any currently known documents, and the two are VERY close to identical. In any case, there should be 2 bushings to fit in the nose. One adapts to MT2 (that's what Rockwell shipped) and the other adapts to 5C. If you don't know, MT is for Morse Taper, which is the commonly used taper family for taper shank drills, drill chuck arbors, centers, and all manner of tooling.

And yes, 5C is the primary/standard collet for lathes, though there are MANY others out there. R8 is unsuitable as it is too small to start with, and it uses a draw bar threaded into the collet for closing. R8 is considered a tool holding collet, where 5C is a work holding collet. 5C is physically larger, (typically) requiring a 1.375" or larger bore, and holding up to 1" stock that is allowed to pass through the collet all the way out the back of the spindle (this is why the closer is a tube) for "bar feeding' or otherwise working with long stock. You can even get collets over 1", up to 1.250 (I think?), but that is pushing the limits and generally won't pass the stock through due to ID neck down to fit the closer threads. Many 5C also have internal threads for fitting a depth stop, but many do not. They typically do not come cheap for good names like Hardinge or Royal, so hopefully it will come with a set. If not, you might pressure into including.

Another nice thing about 5C is that most fixturing tooling uses it. So there are "indexers" and "collet blocks" as well as "collet chucks" and other stuff. For this reason, 5C is probably one of the most versitile collets out there. However, it has a VERY narrow clamping range, and if you exceed it, you can damage or even ruin the collet. More modern designs like the ER or TG style collets have much wider ranges and actually hold better too, but they lack the wide range of supporting tooling. Starting to get the idea that this topic is pretty broad? Just wait, we haven't even got started good yet...

If it's a good one, in good condition, and well tooled, for a good price, and and the size fits your expected needs, then you would be hard pressed to do any better in my opinion. As I said, the only reason I'm considering a Mori (or the like) is I want the larger spindle bore (over 2") along with more power and a higher top speed. But that's just a pipe dream at this point and I really can't justify anything more than my Rockwell 11x37.

And I know about space issues. I have all my stuff in a 1 car detached garage. There is no more than a single wide (one person) walk path that goes in the big door on the narrow end, about 1/3 of the way across, down about 3/4 of the way to the back, across, and back to come out about 1/3 of the way across the door opening from the other side. Just a "U" shaped path.

If you get this, let me know and I'll set you up with all the electronic resources I've managed to find.

BadDog, I sent you a PM

You can find the US Army version of the manual for that machine here. The pics are kinda fuzzy but it includes some pictures of some of the accessories.

Geesh, new hobby that requires an addition!

Click to expand...

Should we tell her what she is in for guys?

-DU-

(Shhhh! You'll scare her off! )

Yep, that manual and the older style operators manual are also int the Yahoo Group files section along with a brochure and some other stuff.

Oh, and I thought of one other thing you should know about the Rockwell 11s. The "tachometer" mechanism is very fragile, and due to neglect (it's not on the maintenance schedule, so they never got oiled or anything) they are often broken. No big deal, I don't really miss mine most of the time, but I do have a hand tach to cheaply cover the need when it arises.

I don't know why Andy says it's "light". It's probably as good as a SB heavy 10, a Logan 12, or my Clausing 5900.

Click to expand...

I would say its a light machine also. DOC wise its slightly better than a SB10, don't know about the Logan 12. I can say that a Clausing 5900 (13"SB also)will bury the Rockwell in chips by the end of the day. The Rockwell seems to get a chatter and the lightweight cabinet lets the chatter build till it resonates badly.

With all that being said its still a nice machine. I have moved the machine with two men and a hand truck, up stairs etc. They are comfortable to run and have a good speed range.

As has been said before and cannot be over stressed, the condition of the back gears, a little fragile and lots of broken ones on the market. Without the back gear the machine isn't very useful to me. I guess if you do small work you can get by.

I have a set of twin Rockwell 11's, these were my primary manual turning platforms in that size when i started on my own. They are now in storage, but will be making their way into the resale market soon. (plant that seed, lol) I'll echo what's been said for the most part, they have exceeded my expectations from what I had hoped they were capable of when I bought them. I made some fairly complicated parts, and when treated right they are capable of working close. I have found that although parts are hit or miss from Delta, the machine is well designed and one of the less complicated, making it a good choice if you plan to be the maintenance person. Again, I'll echo other members here, make sure the basic mechanical structure is intact! Both of mine make some noise when in back gear, not like a rock crusher, lol, just more gears in the train etc. I would say this is as much a function of their age as well as their prior environment. A vast number of these machines made it into the world as Tech School machines. It won't sound like a $50k Tool Room machine.

I also saw someone had posted about the lack of lubrication to parts above the apron, there are oilers there! They are of a style that I more often associate with European Iron and look like an upside down ball detent. Description- think of a tube the same size as a small ball bearing, close one end slightly, drop in small spring, drop in bearing, push bearing down into tube and slightly close remaining tube end. The spring now pushes the ball up into newly formed "seat" These are installed with the bearing facing up, and are lubed via a pressure oiler that looks like a grease gun (but charged with way oil!) with a point that pushes the ball open, sort of like how a tire fill valve works. I had considered trying to hook them all to a "one shot" style central oiler, but never had time and the manual pressure oiler works well.

Most importantly, I think this is a very durable machine. It's one of the reasons not only the Military but Educational people as well selected these so frequently, and as a result so many remain viable.

For what it's worth, I have two as i said. Both are well tooled, with L-00 spindles, 3 jaw set-tru scroll & 4 jaw independent (i believe Rockwell branded), taper attachments on both, 200 series quick change post, Gold Plated Official Rockwell Delta photocopied manual, bought from Delta and was shocked by price, and I think one hand wheel 5C collet drawbar with morse-5 to 5C spindle adapter. They most certainly will be for sale soon, paying rent to store them.

What do you think? Good deal or not?

Here are a couple pictures the seller sent me. I don't see any real valuable tooling. He wants $2300 obo. Since parts aren't readily available, it doesn't sound like a very good deal to me. I'm going to go take a look at it, but my inclination at this point is to pass it up.

Here is basically all he has told me about it : includes cabinet, excellent condt, quick release block and five posts , boring bars , cut off blades ,collets, chucks, bits and more

Comments?

For that price you can usually find a pretty good Clausing 5900 lathe, which has a big advantage of parts still available from Clausing.

However if the machine is in good shape and you can push the price down some it could be a good lathe for you, most owners are pretty happy with them.

Paul T.

Sherrie, I'd say the guy would be lucky to get $1500 for it if it's fully functional. A lot of things can be wrong with it and it would still work ok. These things wear out, and can become "hobby" lathes. It is inevitable that once you have a working mill and lathe that other machines will be a temptation once you realize that you can make parts that can't be bought. I think this is what DU was referring to. There was a Rockwell 11 inch at the metals lab where I was first exposed to machining. My impression from that time was that it was a good stout machine. However, I only had the SB 10 inch to compare it to.
RE: collets: 5C are the most common and are fairly easy to deal with. The limitations have been stated. WWQ

I would pass on that. I went through the whole 'first lathe' ordeal last summer. I had a chance at a simialr RW lathe here... which is a big deal being in MT... and I passed on it b/c of parts availability, and some design issue with the carriage/bed... think someone touched on that earlier. I got the feeling that Rockwell Delta's can be over priced b/c the name recognition through their wood tools, ect. Search this site and others.... if you find a great deal on one at a great price (like your mill) jump on it... otherwise, I would stay with other brands that have some kind of reasonable support, either through a company, this site, or Ebay. FYI Plaza machinery has a pretty good selection of Rockwell parts... best I could find. Also, BPort, and makers... should be in your bookmarks.

I ended up buying a Boxford (British w/ Southbend similarities) from Matt at Quality Machine Tools off of this site, and it has turned out to be excellent. I was glad I held out.. passed on 2 Rockwells, and an old SB in my area.... either too expensive and/or in 'barn' condition. He's had some nice looking Clausings lately....

Good luck,

bb

That's not an 11x37(36). That's an old style short bed. 11x24 or something like that. Rusty set of 5C collets might clean up, might be junk. Then again, rust like that is common in S. FL (I lived in WPB for several years). Looks like Aloris quick change tool post or knock-off. I see the spindle nose bushing in the box. Pic is too small to tell much about the lathe (can't really tell much from a pic anyway).

But money is WAY the freak out of line. Take a pass, not even worth a counter offer if he even thinks it might bring that. Hard to say without looking at wear, but in normal usable (not broke or worn out) condition, that lathe might be worth 1000-1200 or so out here (out here commands premium prices vs other areas). Top money on a pristine example out might bring 1500-2000 equipped as shown, and that clearly isn't pristine.

Mine had a good headstock, was well used, and I found out later had a shot apron clutch (didn't know about them when I bought it). It also came with a LOT more "stuff", but is "well used" but not worn out. I got it for $900 in a premium market. At that price, I would pass and never look back.

Also, my 11" was setting almost right beside a Logan 12". Both were for sale, and I saw both under power that day. There is no comparison. In my opinion, the Rockwell is as much above the Logan 12" as the Logan is above an Atlas 12". I could have had either lathe for the same money, they were of comparable size and similar condition (with the Rockwell showing more wear in shaft/bushing stuff), both L00, and the Logan was cleaner with current parts support. Obviously I bought the Rockwell.

Tom:
The backgear is not "fragile", it's the interlock going out adjustment combined with being used by morons that break them. I don't care what it is, if you engage back and direct while running, it's going to spit out teeth or worse. The fact that you only ever see broken teeth speaks well for it in that case.

As for being buried by a Clausing, in comparable condition, I don't think so. The Clausing has better fit-n-finish (particularly way surfaces) than the Rockwell without a doubt. And it has a heavier frame bed, but the Rockwell has a wider bed with webbing not that much lighter than Clausing. Clausing also has a marginally nicer/heavier cabinet too. But that's comparing a 13"(?) to an 11" lathe. And it will cost you at least twice as much as a Rockwell 11 out here, probably more. And the "still available" parts will make you stumble when the price is quoted, so that falls out of the equation for most of us. You start comparing the Rockwells to 13" and larger lathes and, yes, they start falling behind. But "in it's class", it's hard to beat. The Clausing is a small step above the "class" I consider the Rockwell to be a part of, but it's only a small step that is further diminished when you remove the "astronomically priced parts" availability and the better finish (that still doesn't compare to real premiums like the Monarch and Mori) from the equation. <shrug> At that point, where it falls and how things match up is largely a matter of opinion, in my opinion...

Finster:
Yes, the Apron has flush ball oilers. Mine is converted to pressurized with a wick and works much better. The lack of oilers is on the cross slide which has only a ball oiler for oiling the nut. I added pressure oilers to my cross slide that shoot straight down on the ways in the center, and help flush out any contaminants. And when the QC gear box is disengaged (by the banjo), mine runs almost silent with a nice "hum" in direct drive. Just a very little gear noise when in back gear.

That looks like a drawer full of 5C collets. It is also a good example of how NOT to store precision tooling (even without the rust). The $2300 is way high IMO. You can find them on eBay for less though transportation might be a problem. Looks like the seller looked on eBay and quoted you the highest price he saw. While those collets are not completely worthless (they may clean up OK), they do not add anyhting to the value of the deal in that condition.
Unless this lathe runs like top and has the collet closer, collet adapter, steady and follow rests, taper attachment, and everything is damn near perfect just grungy looking it is not worth that much money.

-DU-