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Turning square shafts

Son of Sam

Aluminum
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Location
South Jersey, USA
Often we encounter square shafts that are turned round on ends to fit bearings. If they are 1-1/4" square of less this is no problem because we put them through the headstock with a 4-jaw. The problem comes with anything larger. 1-1/2, 2" are very common and I have even done up to 3-1/2". Shafts range from 24" up to 84". This is what I have done so far with mixed or limited success.
1. Milled a square into a round boss with a couple set screws and held that in the steady rest.- This allows for end work to be done such as a tapped hole. Chatter is an issue as well as the ability to take any decent size cuts.
2. Milled the face and indicated the center in mill, center drilled the end. Works decent but chatter is still a huge issue.

I am wondering if there is a so called "Proper" way to do this, or has someone found something that works better than what I am doing.
 
Forget the milled square and use eight BIG set screws - four each end

Called a cathead, a heavy wall sleeve - long enough so the set screws don't foul the steady rest

You can even make it spool shaped so each end is bigger - so the big set screws have some real meat to work in

Think of it as a four jaw chuck that fits in a steady rest

The oil patch has centered these things up over the last many years with machinist scale and depth mics

Often we encounter square shafts that are turned round on ends to fit bearings. If they are 1-1/4" square of less this is no problem because we put them through the headstock with a 4-jaw. The problem comes with anything larger. 1-1/2, 2" are very common and I have even done up to 3-1/2". Shafts range from 24" up to 84". This is what I have done so far with mixed or limited success.
1. Milled a square into a round boss with a couple set screws and held that in the steady rest.- This allows for end work to be done such as a tapped hole. Chatter is an issue as well as the ability to take any decent size cuts.
2. Milled the face and indicated the center in mill, center drilled the end. Works decent but chatter is still a huge issue.

I am wondering if there is a so called "Proper" way to do this, or has someone found something that works better than what I am doing.
 
Forget the milled square and use eight BIG set screws - four each end

Called a cathead, a heavy wall sleeve - long enough so the set screws don't foul the steady rest

You can even make it spool shaped so each end is bigger - so the big set screws have some real meat to work in

Think of it as a four jaw chuck that fits in a steady rest

The oil patch has centered these things up over the last many years with machinist scale and depth mics

That's how it's done - like these https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=l...ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMI48aFncO1yAIVQXc-Ch3zCQnG
 
Forget the milled square and use eight BIG set screws - four each end

Called a cathead, a heavy wall sleeve - long enough so the set screws don't foul the steady rest

You can even make it spool shaped so each end is bigger - so the big set screws have some real meat to work in

Think of it as a four jaw chuck that fits in a steady rest

The oil patch has centered these things up over the last many years with machinist scale and depth mics

I like that idea. I will make up a spool shaped steel sleeve. This isnt exactly cutting edge design, so I knew someone had to have a better way than what I have been doing. I would have to think that I could center it pretty close using some round bar blocks then tune it from there as needed.
 
The catshead/paw is the norm,but you can center drill it thro the back of headstock make a bar that is a close fit thro your "spout" drill tap it to hold your c/drill and center drill the end of your shaft using a blackdeka hand drill thro the back of the headstock
 
The catshead/paw is the norm,but you can center drill it thro the back of headstock make a bar that is a close fit thro your "spout" drill tap it to hold your c/drill and center drill the end of your shaft using a blackdeka hand drill thro the back of the headstock

I dont think you understand the issue or I dont understand your response.
The square bars will not fit through the headstock/draw tube. 1-1/2" square is aprox 2-3/32 dia. Biggest tube I have is 2-1/16th. When I get to the larger shafts like 3" I am not even close. Very few lathes (except hollow spindle oil field type) have headstock bore/draw tube large enough to fit. Our 17x96 Cinn is only 1-7/8" hole.
 
Son of Sam,
Leave your stock a couple inches long. Put the one end thru your
homemade steady rest thingy but turn the bearing fit on the end
nearest to the chuck. Thus eliminating the chatter issue. Than
saw it off to length. (2 cents from days gone bye)
spaeth
 
I have seen a four jaw chuck for use in the tailstock. It has a ball bearing then a Morse taper arbor. Similar to a standard live center.
 
See what you mean your issue is how far the job is sticking out when your turning the diameter on your long shafts thats giving you the chatter-sorry about that thought you just wanted to center/drill the long shafts that were too big to pass thro your headstock-you could have center/drilled them the way I said as I do big diameter shafts like that all the time.However it would not solve your chatter issue when turning the diameter thats near the tailstock-cats head will
 
Are you using the tailstock? Cat heads are fine and all, but when dealing with big rods start by supporting it at both ends. You will get more exact concentric support than is possible with a steady rest. That is what it is all about: balance.
 








 
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