I am looking for some feed back on what workbench surcface would work best for our CNC machine shop, ive worked on allot of different surfaces but none seem to have the wear capabilites and coolant restance im looking for. Any sugestions would be very appreciated. Thanks
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Ultimate work bench surface
- Thread starter Alloy69
- Start date
- Replies 40
- Views 32,981
M.B. Naegle
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2011
- Location
- Conroe, TX USA
Best bench in our shop IMO is our 1" thick steel plate one. Tubular steel legs, welded construction, it's about 4-3 feet and 3 feet high. Very solid so you can beat on it and if you keep it pollished up, it's great for working with small parts. Keep some sheets of rubber handy to lay beneith things you don't want to mar and lay tools and cutters on rags to keep from chipping them. Great to mount vises and the like to as well. Tap your holes into the table and plug them with set screws when not in use. I'm not a fan of hanging tools on boards and stuff behind your bench because they catch debris. Keep tools in a toolbox.
Overall the best bench is a clean one.
If you're looking for something cheaper, screw some sheetmetal over the top of a wood bench. Not as sturdy or flat but close enough for most work.
Overall the best bench is a clean one.
If you're looking for something cheaper, screw some sheetmetal over the top of a wood bench. Not as sturdy or flat but close enough for most work.
John Welden
Diamond
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2009
- Location
- Seattle
I haven't tried it for a bench but Corian would make a pretty bad ass work surface. Get a darkish color to hide stains.
Formica seems to have gotten a bad name from being used on cheap shit but it's actually a great material. If it gets beat up, rip it off and throw on a new sheet. Buzz around it with router, boom you're done.
It depends what you're working on. Big heavy stuff that's thrashes benches is a lot different than say medical device parts. I've had a 1/8 thick stainless work top that was pretty much indestructible. Maple is nice but stains.
Formica seems to have gotten a bad name from being used on cheap shit but it's actually a great material. If it gets beat up, rip it off and throw on a new sheet. Buzz around it with router, boom you're done.
It depends what you're working on. Big heavy stuff that's thrashes benches is a lot different than say medical device parts. I've had a 1/8 thick stainless work top that was pretty much indestructible. Maple is nice but stains.
JRIowa
Diamond
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Marshalltown, Iowa, USA
I've got truck mud flaps on the top of mine. The one's used on semi's and large straight trucks. Mine are 24 X 36 & 1/4" thick for $25/pair. And under the mud flaps, there's a piece of bowling alley.
JR
JR
Polyurethaned butcher block (1.75" thick) or stainless steel plate are my preference.
I built a welding table out of 1" thick stainless and had it blanchard ground flat. That's the "ultimate" in my book, but definite overkill for just general table usage.
The butcher block is very hard and the polyurethane is pretty indestricable. Plus, when it gets beat up, just hit it with the belt sander and re-poly, and it's like new again. Hard to beat on the cost/longevity/utility scale.
I built a welding table out of 1" thick stainless and had it blanchard ground flat. That's the "ultimate" in my book, but definite overkill for just general table usage.
The butcher block is very hard and the polyurethane is pretty indestricable. Plus, when it gets beat up, just hit it with the belt sander and re-poly, and it's like new again. Hard to beat on the cost/longevity/utility scale.
most of my worktops are 30mm MDF, some sealed, some not. cheap and solid, when it gets too ugly to look at just toss it and throw a new sheet on.
as mentioned above, corian makes an awesome worktop, especially when laid over two layers of 30mm MDF. much "quieter" than a steel table and can handle just about everything but being directly beaten on with a hammer.
as mentioned above, corian makes an awesome worktop, especially when laid over two layers of 30mm MDF. much "quieter" than a steel table and can handle just about everything but being directly beaten on with a hammer.
Mike Folks
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2004
- Location
- Springfield Mo
sophijo
Aluminum
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2010
- Location
- SE Michigan
bench top
Mine are salvaged bowling alleys, like JR's; real bugger to cut; rfx with steel rod.
Mine are salvaged bowling alleys, like JR's; real bugger to cut; rfx with steel rod.
wgnrr1
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2008
- Location
- Spooner, WI
My benches are made of 2 1/2" MDF(medium density fiberboard). I soaked as much black paint into it as it would take. Can't ruin them.
Josh
Josh
Bruce Griffing
Titanium
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2003
- Location
- Temple, Texas
Unless you are using heavy sharp metal items, I would add a +1 for formica. Cheap and good.
Mud
Diamond
- Joined
- May 20, 2002
- Location
- South Central PA
For inspection and light work I use maple with a thin flat surfaced rubber mat on top. For heavy work I use a thick steel top with heavy rubber mats or other covers that can be moved around as needed
charlie gary
Stainless
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2009
- Location
- near Seattle, Washington, USA
1/8 in. 4 ft. x 8 Ft., Tempered Hardboard
like this from Home Cheapo
1/8 in. 4 ft. x 8 Ft., Tempered Hardboard-832777 at The Home Depot
like this from Home Cheapo
1/8 in. 4 ft. x 8 Ft., Tempered Hardboard-832777 at The Home Depot
Pete F
Titanium
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2008
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
Rather than throw out an otherwise good sheet of MDF, I use sacrificial sheet of masonite on top of the MDF. I use solid wood edge banding that comes up flush with the masonite. However the edge banding is either screwed or nailed on. While I seal the masonite, when it becomes too badly trashed pop off the edge banding and masonite, rough cut the masonite and throw it on, it just sits in place. Trim with a router to be flush with the edge of the MDF and pop the edge banding back in to hold the masonite in place. If the masonite is sealed with an oil based finish it turns quite dark and actually looks pretty good in my opinion, it's also resistant to liquids.
Pete
CBlair
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2002
- Location
- Lawrenceville GA USA
Yes I am with you guys, I use a sheet of hard board over mine and you can just replace it when it gets too damaged. But that hasnt happened in a few years.
Of course my favorite is just a solid steel top, over an inch thick that I got at an auction. But for the other standard sheet steel benches I just cover them with the hardboard, shiny side up.
Charles
Of course my favorite is just a solid steel top, over an inch thick that I got at an auction. But for the other standard sheet steel benches I just cover them with the hardboard, shiny side up.
Charles
dwentz
Plastic
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2008
- Location
- Belleville, IL
Better yet, get the Formica they sell for bathrooms. It's gloss white on one side, holds up to oil and liquids better and makes the shop so much brighter.
Dale
Dale
I have sheet metal tables here in my metal shop, I think they are 11ga tops. The biggest problem I have with them is the noise they make when you use a hammer. I like MDF as a table, and I have it in a few other places and keep talking about putting it on top of my current tables but haven't gotten that far yet. I've used chem top as well on cabinets but I am not a big fan of it, it is just to slick. I work at one place with a 3" thick solid steel work table that is nice, but a little heavy to move around as needed easily.
autofrite
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2011
- Location
- Lac Du Bonnet,Manitoba
my benches are 2-layers 3/4" plywood covered in 1/8" sheet metal-painted.
will take anything for a beating except a sledge hammer.when paint looks cruddy,sand it down and roll on another coat.
frond edge bent down,rear 4" bent up for a backsplash.
will take anything for a beating except a sledge hammer.when paint looks cruddy,sand it down and roll on another coat.
frond edge bent down,rear 4" bent up for a backsplash.
surplusjohn
Diamond
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2002
- Location
- Syracuse, NY USA
a good treatment for MDF is minwax finish, basically lindseed oil, soaks in and hardens it up and makes it more water resistant. I have used this for some work surfaces, not work benches, and was pleased with its hardness and pleasent color.
