Pulling Teeth, Milling Cutter

Ed P · Jan 29, 2010

I would like to remove the HSS teeth from a cutter that has them held in with circular wedges in front of the teeth. They are in there pretty tight, what's the best way, dry ice, heat?

Ed P

P.S. I tried to include a picture by clicking on "manage attachments" but got directed to a window that said "invalid link".

4miller1 · Jan 29, 2010

I have had luck with a small punch and tapping on the side, mine slide out the side, also a little oil helps.

JST · Jan 29, 2010

Want some more holders? I have one or two holders, but no wedges or inserts..... about 5" dia, 1" or 1.25 hole, I can check if you want.

I have zero use for them.

Ed P · Jan 30, 2010

JST said:
Want some more holders? I have one or two holders, but no wedges or inserts..... about 5" dia, 1" or 1.25 hole, I can check if you want.

I have zero use for them.

Thanks, but I have the holders, need to replace the teeth.

Ed P

PixMan · Jan 30, 2010

I'm very curious about this cutter, as I can't picture it in my head as to what the configuration is. Can you post a photo now? Is it a long-blade type of shell mill or a slotting cutter or what?

Ed P · Jan 30, 2010

Here is a picture.

Ed P

Metal Slave · Jan 30, 2010

You would think some sort of drift pin would work.

Perry Harrington · Jan 30, 2010

Screwdriver in the slot, pry the pins out.

Ed P · Jan 31, 2010

Perry Harrington said:
Screwdriver in the slot, pry the pins out.

I guess I should not of said "pretty tight", and instead said very very *extremely* tight. No screwdriver is going to get them out. Maybe making a harden wedge and wacking the cr*p out of them. I was hoping there might be an easier way as there are quite a few of them and I have 3 cutters to do. Tomorrow I'll go up and get some dry ice and see what happens, then I'll try some heat if that doesn't work.

Ed P

DaveE907 · Jan 31, 2010

A hardened tapered drift will eject the wedges. Look at the root of the slots, you'll probably find plastically deformed metal there from the operation being done earlier in the cutter's life. A high pressure lubricant, preferably with MoS2 will help the drift move.

HuFlungDung · Jan 31, 2010

If you have a hydraulic press handy, maybe you could apply a little pressure across the diameter of the cutter, with the press supports spread three or four inches apart. You'd not want to overdo it of course, you'd want to flex the cutter body elastically. Then maybe a drift will be sufficient to tap it out.

I don't see how an application of dry ice would help, it just doesn't work fast enough or provide enough temperature diff for something that is already assembled and making good conductive contact.

jetson100 · Feb 1, 2010

Try tapping the cutter back on against the shoulder,this might square it up and might just pull off.

joe

Oops!! Misread what you were trying to do, disregard my post.
joe

sa100 · Feb 1, 2010

No guarantees, but looking at the picture I think you need to find or make something similar to a tiny drill drift to drive the wedges out. It probably should be hard, but try something soft as a test. You ought to be able to make something out of a piece of scrap in five minutes. Remember, the shallower the taper, the greater the force you can apply to the pin.

I don't think a drift pin would work, because the diameter required to contact the bottom and the pin would exceed the width of the slot. You'd bind on the sides before you could exert any upward force on the pin.

Edit: On second viewing of the picture, Dave is right, you can see evidence of past removals at the bottoms of some slots. A flat tapered drift is definitely the way to go. Just be sure that the cutter is well supported when you are driving the drift in.

Good luck,

Steve

duckman · Feb 1, 2010

Make 2 hardened wedges that have a slow taper squeeze together from opposite sides they will pop right out.

PixMan · Feb 1, 2010

Don't take offense, but that cutter body looks beat. Putting new inserts in a body that's in poor condition like that one is going to seriously reduce tool life.

Have you given any consideration to upgrading to carbide insert saw bodies? You'd be running a lot faster, be capable of a much higher feed-per-tooth and get probably 10x the life.

I have a 4" x .204' x 1.25" 8-insert cutter that can go 1.25" deep that you could try just to see how well they work. I run it in 410 stainless steel at 450 rpm & 18 ipm. Let me know if you want to try it. No cost to you other than shipping it back.

JST · Feb 1, 2010

I suspect that after you get #1 out, the rest will be easier...... as the one next to it will no longer be supporting it.

I looked around, and the only description I could find was that you 'drive" the locking wedges out. Presumably with tapered drift wedge as described.

I asked about the carriers since I assumed you had a supply of new cutter blanks to put in, and might be able to use the carriers.....

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Pulling Teeth, Milling Cutter

Ed P

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4miller1

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JST

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Ed P

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PixMan

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Ed P

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Metal Slave

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Perry Harrington

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Ed P

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DaveE907

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HuFlungDung

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jetson100

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sa100

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duckman

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PixMan

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JST

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