Feeler gauge / Thickness gauge Tapered or Straight?

This is my first post to the forum, so first of all thanks for all of the great info over the years!

I'm about to buy a thickness gauge, what I've always called a 'feeler gauge'. I've noticed there are tapered leaf styles and straight leaf styles, each with a rounded end.

The tapered ones seem to me like they would be preferable in nearly every circumstance (i.e. trying to insert a narrower thing is easier than a wider thing). Obviously you've gotta use one type if the place you're sticking it doesn't fit the other type, but I suspect there's a concept I'm missing which indicates the use case for one versus the other.

If you have both on the bench, which would you usually reach for? Assuming that a budding maker/fabricator like me would be well served to own both, which is better to have first? Is it worth investing in a good Mitutoyo or a Starrett? I can't think of a time when I regretted purchasing a "better" tool, but perhaps this is an exception.

Do people generally own 'good gauges' for precise work (think engineering square), and crappy ones for 'general' work (think combination square)?

This recognize that this is a naive question, but I appreciate anyone's input.

I have several multi-leaf feeler gages, long and short, by various makers. But it is so long since I used one that I can't say when it was or why I used it. In other words, it is not the most useful tool in the box. I also have a bunch of Starrett 12 inch long feeler gage strips in various thicknesses. I did use one of those recently to make a flat spring. Larry

I got my feeler gauges at an estate sale for 25 cents. It's a full set by some brand I've never heard of (probably out of business by now). They're straight leaf. I also don't know what good the tapered leaves are.

On the other hand I have a very nice combination square that I use for general purpose work (not as a hammer or screwdriver, of course!)

L Vanice said:

... I also have a bunch of Starrett 12 inch long feeler gage strips in various thicknesses.

Click to expand...

It's funny you mention loose gauge strips. I have always wished you could easily pop a blade out of the set in the same way you would might take a sheet from a 3-ring binder. The remaining stack of 24 gauges, just 3 inches away has always seemed cumbersome. Unscrewing the retaining screw, removing the pin, removing all of the gauges, selecting one, reassembling the whole schmeer is even more cumbersome.

Most of mine have turned into shims.

The tapered kind will tel you aprox how much shim.

For most uses straight ones are fine. But if you work on things with limited space a tapered gage will be easier to use.

How thin do feeler gages go - below a thou?

As others have said generally style is not of much import however very roughly tapered feeler gauges could be considered mechanics / service-mans tools whilst straight ones are machinists / engineers tools. Mechanics often need the slim tapered end to get into small spaces for setting tappet adjustments , points gaps and similar. No chance of getting a straight one into the points gap of a Lucas magneto or distributor! (But ace mechanics use the proper narrow, stubby gauges designed for the job.) Machinists need a wider parallel one to ensure that things don't rock and to get a wider area of feel for verifying clearances on things which should be parallel. Realistically you are more likely to wish you have tapered ones when all you have is straight ones which sometimes just won't poke in the hole and lay flat so you can get the job done.

I have 3" inch tapered ones but should I succumb to very occasional need for a longer set I shall get straight ones. Like Larry I rarely use mine but when I need them I need them.

Clive

Whilst i don't use them machining, there essential for setting all kinds of gaps in the print world.