Webster Bennett 48" vertical boring mill issues

Bcmachinist · May 10, 2017

The shop picked up a used ,mid 80's I believe, Webster Bennett 48" boring mill. It didn't last long before it burned out the clutch plates... we replaced them, and immediately it burnt them out again... compared to the other boring mills in the shop, it seems like there is no slip when the start lever is engaged to turn the table. It seems like it's either on or off... where as the other machines you can ease it up to speed to prevent any abrupt start/stops. The oil pressure is up around 240... any have any experience with these machines and can point me in the right direction as to where to start looking for the issue? Thanks

Limy Sami · May 10, 2017

IIRC??? - I think you need Tyrone Shoelaces.

Tyrone Shoelaces · May 10, 2017

Some photos of the gearbox and of the machine would be handy. Lots of different Webbie Bennetts out there. Clutch plates should last many years if they're installed properly.

Regards Tyrone.

Limy Sami · May 10, 2017

There ya go Bcmachinist you've got THE man on the job.

Seeing as you're a noob, a little heads up - PM works like this - the more info you give, the higher your chances of a good and helpful answer

Tyrone Shoelaces · May 10, 2017

Limy Sami said:
There ya go Bcmachinist you've got THE man on the job.

Seeing as you're a noob, a little heads up - PM works like this - the more info you give, the higher your chances of a good and helpful answer

Your second sentence has it in a nutshell Sami. Especially given my slowly deteriorating memory, especially of all things " Roundabout ".

Regards Tyrone.

Limy Sami · May 10, 2017

Tyrone Shoelaces said:
Especially given my slowly deteriorating memory, especially of all things " Roundabout ".

Regards Tyrone.

I warned you about going out of the razz with Dylan to watch Florence stripping and pole dancing.

secetal · May 10, 2017

Here is some W&B info. If it helps I have more. Martin

eKretz · May 10, 2017

I can't read the manual pages, they are too blurry, Any chance of better photos?

If the boring mill is anything like the Bullards from the same period it likely has hydraulic braking and clutching. It may also have a high pressure accumulator for oil pressure. I would check specs for accumulator pressure if it has one and see how your machine compares to spec. There are probably some sort of clutch adjustments as well. You might also be able to adjust clutch engagement rate by changing an orifice in the hydraulic line.

ewlsey · May 10, 2017

Is it possible the brake is stuck on? I had an issue like this with a Motch with a 2 speed gear box. It was getting stuck in both gears at the same time and destroying both clutches. Turned out that one of the tank drain passages in the valve block had a pipe plug in it. It could never have possibly worked the way it was. But, no one had any idea how that plug found its way in there :scratchchin:

eKretz · May 10, 2017

Yep I meant to mention that as well.

Tyrone Shoelaces · May 11, 2017

From previous experience the machines do start up pretty promptly. The clutch is hydraulically actuated. How rapidly they stop depends on how well the brake is working. If the machine is a " DH " type like the one in the handbook photo's the brake is an hydraulically operated automotive drum type brake, from an " Armstrong- Siddley " I believe. It worked ok normally but the machine shouldn't be coming to a shuddering halt. The brake housing is situated under the clutch box. The clutch box is the box sticking out of the back of the column. It's the box where the pulley is.

Regards Tyrone.

secetal · May 11, 2017

Picture of clutch and brake

collector · May 11, 2017

Hi the one I have you can feather the speed up or down with the on Handel in the picture. Or you can have it go full speed or stop if you slam the Handel up or down. Here is a picture of on I saved from scrap last Friday

secetal · May 11, 2017

Text in handbook, let me know if its clear enough to read. I am doing this with my I phone so I can only seem to do one picture at a time. Martin

secetal · May 11, 2017

More text. Martin

secetal · May 11, 2017

Hydraulic circuit diagram, hope this helps. Best wishes. Martin

Bcmachinist · May 11, 2017

I can't seem to post pictures to this Thread from my phone, but, there is a drum brake under the clutch housing. We have bled the brake. As well as disconnected and plugged the line to see if the brake was sticking. That wasn't the issue. Reading thru the manual, it sounds like the hydraulic clutch works in 2 stages. The first stage is only partial hydraulic pressure, then with the start handle fully engaged, that is the second stage at full pressure so you can feather the clutch engagement slowly. From what I can gather, the first stage of the clutch doesn't seem to be working .

Bcmachinist · May 11, 2017

I do have access to a manual luckily. But thank you for posting the pics of it

eKretz · May 11, 2017

Going by what the manual has to say (now I can read it, thanks!) it sounds like you may have a problem with one of the control valves. How does the pressure check out vs. what they've got listed?

Tyrone Shoelaces · May 12, 2017

I've worked on the " DH "types before were the operators were on piece work and liked to start up the machine pretty rapidly. On the older matchines the detent springs in the start levers become worn and therefore it's very easy just to throw the lever straight in the run position. The heavy handed guys took advantage of this.

Having said that I can't recall any instances of the multi plate drive clutches " burning out " rapidly. Normally they last for many, many years.

More precise information as to what " burning out " means to you would help a lot.

Regards Tyrone.

Webster Bennett 48" vertical boring mill issues

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