Thread: What is the angle of the race for wheel bearings?

Looking to make my own bearing race driver set because the autoparts store and harbor freight ones are not strong enough in my opinion. not having any races in front of me I was wondering if anyone knows what the angle is for the surface where the rollers contact the race.

I'm pretty sure (yeah OK I'm wrong) the angle varies on size.

FWIW I was taught never to drive / press races by their bearing tracks.

Limy is right never drive/press by their bearing tracks.

If you are making bearing race drivers IMO they should be square and flat contacting only the outer edge of the race.

To answer your original question the angle varies as to the bearing size and type. The first digit following the prefix will represent the angle coding
as determined by the included angle of the outer race.
The following is for common Timken ABMA inch bearings other series may be different.

Included Outer race Angle Code
0 to 23° 59’ 59.99’’ 1
24° to 25° 29’ 59.99’’ 2
25° 30’ to 26° 59’ 59.99’’ 3
27° to 28° 29’ 59.99’’ 4
28° 30’ to 30° 29’ 59.99’’ 5
30° 30’ to 32° 29’ 59.99’’ 6
32° 30’ to 35° 59’ 59.99’’ 7
36° to 44° 59’ 59.99’’ 8
45° Up, but not thrust only 9
90° Thrust bearing only 0

Ed

I have a set of Snap-On or Lisle bearing drivers (I forget which) but not handy at the moment. Otherwise I would just measure them for you. They are made of aluminum which works very well and will not damage the race at all. They drive on the edge with a shoulder. The taper part is just so the shoulder will stay centered over the rim. The taper is not used for driving.

If you are using tons of pressure or heavy pounding to install the race then something else is wrong with the bore.

-DU-

Not to be a nit picker.....but, the part you are refering to is actually called the CUP, and the rest of the bearing would be the cone. Now if you take the cone apart you will have the ROLLERS, CAGE, and the part where the rollers touch is known as the RACE.

Just an F.Y.I. in case your ever on Jeapoardy

Mick

Forgot to add, I make most of my big bearing drivers out of alumiminum AKA old pistons

Hard to beat $45 for a set of nine

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