Drill chuck dissasembly / repair?

Jager · Aug 21, 2009

I recently bought an old Colburn D1 drill press. After getting it back to the shop and looking it over, it looks like someone managed to run the drill chuck jaws way too far out. They will not go back in using just the chuck key, or while pressing them down onto a block of wood while turning the key. I did not get forceful with it

It is a large chuck.. 3/8 - 1" capacity, so it would not be cheap to replace. Mfr/model is Ridgid Supreme. What is the best way to go about getting the jaws back into the body without damaging anything (any further)?

Thanks,
Andrew

atomarc · Aug 21, 2009

Andrew,

It looks terminal to me, but here is a link on how to disassemble a Jacobs chuck...yours would come apart the same way.

http://www.beautifuliron.com/jacobs.htm

Stuart

Jager · Aug 21, 2009

Thanks Stuart. I will try and get it pulled apart this weekend. Hopefully it is salvageable.

Andrew

L Vanice · Aug 21, 2009

I have found chucks larger than 1/2" are not often useful. Bigger straight shank drill bits are uncommon and I seldom need to hold a die head or such in a drill chuck. Most big drill bits have Morse taper shanks, and I suppose the Colburn has a Morse taper spindle, maybe a 4 or 5. Unless you have a need for a big chuck, you should get a 1/2" chuck to fit the Colburn.

Larry

Jager · Aug 21, 2009

L Vanice said:
I have found chucks larger than 1/2" are not often useful. Bigger straight shank drill bits are uncommon and I seldom need to hold a die head or such in a drill chuck. Most big drill bits have Morse taper shanks, and I suppose the Colburn has a Morse taper spindle, maybe a 4 or 5. Unless you have a need for a big chuck, you should get a 1/2" chuck to fit the Colburn.

Larry

I have a smaller drill press equipped with a 1/2" chuck for smaller jobs. I would like to keep the 1" chuck on this machine if possible, even if I dont ever chuck anything over 3/4". I can use taper shank drills for larger sizes.The Colburn has a #5 MT spindle.

9100 · Aug 22, 2009

I don't know what the chances of repairing the chuck are, but I can tell you that you have what in my less than humble opinion is the best keyed chuck made. Jacobs shouldn't be mentioned in the same post. The only one in the same class is Albrecht, which is different animal. I have a 3/4" Rigid Supreme that I have used daily for almost 40 years and would not trade for a new top of the line Jacobs.

The jaws are hardened, as is everything else, so they should survive some tapping with a brass hammer. I would tap them while turning the sleeve to see if it would pick them up again. I have never had a reason to take mine apart, so I can't advise you there.

Bill

Jager · Aug 23, 2009

9100 said:
I don't know what the chances of repairing the chuck are, but I can tell you that you have what in my less than humble opinion is the best keyed chuck made. Jacobs shouldn't be mentioned in the same post. The only one in the same class is Albrecht, which is different animal. I have a 3/4" Rigid Supreme that I have used daily for almost 40 years and would not trade for a new top of the line Jacobs.

The jaws are hardened, as is everything else, so they should survive some tapping with a brass hammer. I would tap them while turning the sleeve to see if it would pick them up again. I have never had a reason to take mine apart, so I can't advise you there.

Bill

Hi Bill.. Thanks for the suggestion. I tried tapping lightly while turning the key and after a few turns the jaws started back into the chuck body. I oiled the jaws and body heavily and ran it back and forth a few times. Everything feels good, a little drag as it gets close to fully opened, but I think this has to do with built up gunk inside. I will probably still pull it off and tear it down and give it good cleaning at some point.. but for now I'm just glad it is working. I chucked a 1/2" shank to test it, no problems.

Thanks
Andrew

cecilstrange · Aug 24, 2009

Those who do not use large drill chucks might notice that best concentricity is specified at half capacity. That is the only position where the jaws are fully supported. It is obvious that when jaws extend outside the chuck body the ends are not supported. It is less obvious, until you press a chuck apart, that when it is opened more than half way the upper ends of the jaws are not supported. If I had routine need to apply high torque to a 1/2" tool shank, I would use my 1" drill chuck. Nevertheless, for lighter loads and occasional use throughout its range, I agree that it is hard to beat the versatility of a 1/2" drill chuck.

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