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  1. #1
    burchdb is offline Aluminum
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    Default Wiring question please help

    On my new (old) Harrison AA the terminals in the box are labeled L1, L2, L3 and a green/yellow wire which I assume is ground.

    I've tried every combo and nothing works.

    I'm using a Phase A Matic and have a red, black. white (common) and green (ground) coming out of the box.

    Can someone please tell me which terminals I should hook the two power wires (red & black) to.

    Many thanks, Dave

  2. #2
    pofo is offline Aluminum
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    Dave,

    Your either missing a wire or that white wire should be blue.

    If you have a volt meter, read the voltages between:
    red - black
    red - white
    black - white

    If they are all about 240 V then connect:

    black to L1
    red to L2
    white to L3
    Green/yellow is ground.

    If you read 120v between black-white or red-white, then your missing the L3 wire.

  3. #3
    Walt @ SGS Inc. is offline Stainless
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    Default Wiring problem

    You just might be trying to wire 220 single phase into a 3 phase machine.
    The L1 L2 L3 are the three legs of a 3 phase hook up.
    Regards Walt...

  4. #4
    viper is offline Titanium
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    Default

    Probably need more info to get this one figured out.

    Also, please confirm you are NOT trying to use a static phase converter for this??? If you do not have a slave 3PH motor sitting there to generate 3PH power, it ain;t gunna work.

  5. #5
    JST's Avatar
    JST
    JST is offline Diamond
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    Phase-A-Matic would probably be a static converter. They do sorta work, but that machine might have a feature that keeps it from working....

    You would need to be sure tha machine controls are on the incoming AC lines, so they actually get power.

    I don't "get" the wire colors....... White is ALWAYS a neutral, and neutral shouldn't be needed in the machine....and definitely NOT on the input to the converter (according to their instructions, which you can find on the web.

    http://www.phase-a-matic.com/PDF/SIS-2010.pdf

    Seems like you should have "A", "B" and "C" labels on the converter output

  6. #6
    magneticanomaly is online now Stainless
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    Default

    Your phase-a-matic should have three wires going in, single phase L1 and single phase L2, and a common. Maybe a case ground, too.

    Coming out should be three hot phases, and perhaps a common, and that ground.

    Check voltages among all the wires "coming out", to be sure that you do have three hots, with suitable voltages between them and between them and ground

    There will be your L1, L2. and L3 for your machine. One of the phase-a-matic's output legs , the "manufactured leg", will have a higher no-load voltage than the other two. I would not use this one for your machine's single-phase controls.

    Just to make the lawyers unhappy, notice that I am not giving you any advice

  7. #7
    burchdb is offline Aluminum
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    Default

    Its a static box good for 3-5 HP. Its the same as the one for the Bridgeport and I tested both, the BP works as did my old Clausing Colchester with a 7HP motor.

    I can't get voltage readings coming out of the converter, but the BP runs when plugged in to it.

    I've tried both converters, every combo of wiring, The only hookup that activates something (I hear a click when I turn it on) is with the white common wire to L3

    I know there is an interlock on the rear cover, but its in place.

    I'm stumped so I've been overhauling the compound and general cleaning.

  8. #8
    pofo is offline Aluminum
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    Default

    Maybe the Harrison has a problem.

  9. #9
    burchdb is offline Aluminum
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    Phase A Matic's instructions definitely state there should NOT be a common (white) wire coming in, only going to the machine. Two in, three out plus ground

    Quote Originally Posted by magneticanomaly View Post
    Your phase-a-matic should have three wires going in, single phase L1 and single phase L2, and a common. Maybe a case ground, too.

    Coming out should be three hot phases, and perhaps a common, and that ground.

    Check voltages among all the wires "coming out", to be sure that you do have three hots, with suitable voltages between them and between them and ground

    There will be your L1, L2. and L3 for your machine. One of the phase-a-matic's output legs , the "manufactured leg", will have a higher no-load voltage than the other two. I would not use this one for your machine's single-phase controls.

    Just to make the lawyers unhappy, notice that I am not giving you any advice

  10. #10
    viper is offline Titanium
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    Quote Originally Posted by burchdb View Post
    Its a static box good for 3-5 HP. Its the same as the one for the Bridgeport and I tested both, the BP works as did my old Clausing Colchester with a 7HP motor.

    I can't get voltage readings coming out of the converter, but the BP runs when plugged in to it.

    I've tried both converters, every combo of wiring, The only hookup that activates something (I hear a click when I turn it on) is with the white common wire to L3

    I know there is an interlock on the rear cover, but its in place.

    I'm stumped so I've been overhauling the compound and general cleaning.
    You do realize that a static only gives you 66% of rates power, right? And can make the motors run hotter due to the severe imbalance?

    Personally, I am wondering if you have a contactor or something that is not happy. Just have to look at the wiring from the converter to the actual motor to determine what is going on.

  11. #11
    reggie_obe is offline Titanium
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    If available, consult the "factory" wiring of the Harrison. The static converter is running the three phase motor on single phase, by giving the third leg a "kick start" wth an internal capacitor. If the leg you randomly choose for L3 is also used by the machine as a supply for any internal relays or motors controls, it's not going to work as is. You're going tyo have to dig into the lathe wiring to solve this? Are the contactor coils 110 or 220vac?

  12. #12
    Arthur.Marks is offline Stainless
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    I vote reggie's answer most likely.

  13. #13
    Jim Williams is offline Hot Rolled
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    Dave,

    I initally ran my 10AA with a 3 hp static converter. It had no reverse function, and not enough power to run up to 3,000 rpm. I added a 3 hp idler motor, using the same static converter, and the Harrison has performed well ever since. It has reverse and plenty of power.

    Jim

  14. #14
    burchdb is offline Aluminum
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    Well I finally found the problem.

    The foot brake wasn't fully releasing so the electrical shutoff was activated. It was only a sixteenth or so, but just enough to not allow the motor to run.

    It's working well with a PAM 300HD Phase-A-Matic static box now. I had the wiring right all the time, just never thought of the foot brake interlock. All I had to do was lift up the foot brake with my toe. (beats head against wall )


    A day wasted chasing down electrical circuits,......sigh

  15. #15
    rattraped is offline Plastic
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    Default Phase-A-Matic Rotary Phase Converter

    I have a Phase-A-Matic Rotary Converter 3hp Single phase 220V input to a 220V three phase output. The Converter is wired into a Hardinge HVL Lathe setup for 220V. The three inputs are #1 to the on/off switch, control circuits etc. #2 & #3 are wired to the transformer to create 110V. Not wanting to damage the Lathe, the T-3 lead which is 242V should go where? I would think that all individual leads to GND should be in the 122V +/- a few percent. Should a voltage regulator be placed on the rotary phase output to bring all the voltages in the 122V range?

    Input
    L-1 to T-1, L-2 to T-2 and GND.

    No load conditions
    Output
    T-1 to GND = 121V
    T-2 to GND = 122V
    T-3 to GND = 242V
    T1-T2 is 243V, T1-T3 is 263V, T2-T3 is 275V.

    Loaded conditions
    T-1 to GND = 120V
    T-2 to GND = 121V
    T-3 to GND = 241V
    T1-T2 is 241V, T1-T3 is 262V, T2-T3 is 274V.

    Any comments would be welcomed.

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