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Yeong Chin Mill table * * HELP ? * *

Trollerudjan

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 5, 2006
Location
norway
Hello,
I was trying to help a friend with his mill yesterday. His mill table is out of line and he wants to straighten it... I'm no expert but I've never seen a mill table that has a scale implying it pivots 30 degrees each direction... see picture. We were doing a head stand for an hour yesterday loosening every set screw we found . We cannot figure out how the table is secured. Anybody out there please enlighten us

Thanks
Jan

Fres.jpg
 
Hello,
I was trying to help a friend with his mill yesterday. His mill table is out of line and he wants to straighten it... I'm no expert but I've never seen a mill table that has a scale implying it pivots 30 degrees each direction... see picture. We were doing a head stand for an hour yesterday loosening every set screw we found . We cannot figure out how the table is secured. Anybody out there please enlighten us

Thanks
Jan

View attachment 221088

Those "universal table" goods do not ordinarily get moved often. One use is to set up for cutting helical gears.

Fair chance it is glued in place by old coolant and rust. Once certain all means of locking have been released, a "zero" tram position pin also possible, a rap with a deadblow hammer may sort it.
 
Thanks Thermite,
This has also crossed out minds but none of the set screws seem to make any sence securing wize. I'd really like to know which which screws are locking it down.


Jan
 
Thanks Thermite,
This has also crossed out minds but none of the set screws seem to make any sence securing wize. I'd really like to know which which screws are locking it down.


Jan

My ones is on an old, and ridiculously tiny Burke #4 mill. The mechanism they used is bleedin' obvious, as it has ears with curved slots and clamp bolts not all that different from a swivel base for a vise.

Your one may (or may NOT) rely only on the locking mechanism back of that nicely made handle, setscrews only for wear take-up of a gib- not necessarily linear.

Which, detail, of course, dead-simple or fiendishly clever, would not be visible unless you removed the table.

Now that you know it is CALLED a universal table, a search on PM or You Tube should find examples - possibly even of this same mill.

Good Hunting!
 
you should not mess it up trying move things you know nothing about . perhaps some one can help if not you should seek the manual. Supermax YC-1 1/2 VA, Yeong Chin Milling Operate Maint Electric Parts Manual - $55.00 : Machinery Manuals | Parts Lists | Maintenance Manual | Service Instructions | Schematics

With knowing and the correct securement lose I would put a jack under a ledge that could not be harmed and give a lever-up to that ledge to see perhaps .1 to .15 mm gap to insert a bit of oil at various places. I have seen old grinder tables stuck that way and turning the pivot was never possible until they were lifted first.

*Some photos of the table top at mid point and at ends may help. common to have a pivot pin at center and a screw or two at about a 6-8" circle ...then a securing bolt perhaps at both ends..
 
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What do those two grub screws do that are in between the index scale and the way wiper. If you've loosened those a few bangs on the table top with a dead blow hammer may loosen the table off. If it has a scale it will rotate you can be sure of that.

To set the table square you need to swing trammel the table edge from the spindle with a DTI and a sturdy swing bracket. On a top quality machine you would trammel the centre, master, tee slot. In your case the table edge will be fine.

Some oil in the resorvoir that I can see the sight glass for wouldn't go amiss.

Another vote for buying the handbook, they can be priceless.

Regards Tyrone.
 
Plus the two Allen set screws under the degrees scale may be additional locks.

We had a grinder at the big shop. Millwrights were called to remove the motorized spindle. What looked like set screw locks were taken out. then the millwrights whacked the head to lose it and broke the casting.
The machine manual was in the office perhaps 50 feet away but those guys never looked or even asked..

What was needed was to take out those screws perhaps 3/8..Then insert a smaller bolt (perhaps 5/16) and pull the keepers out..
 
Plus the two Allen set screws under the degrees scale may be additional locks.

We had a grinder at the big shop. Millwrights were called to remove the motorized spindle. What looked like set screw locks were taken out. then the millwrights whacked the head to lose it and broke the casting.
Thar machine manual was in the office perhaps 50 feet away but those guys never looked or even asked..

What was needed was to take out those screws perhaps 3/8..Then insert a smaller bolt (perhaps 5/16) and pull the keepers out..

Those are the screws I was referring to also. Just because you've released the screws it doesn't mean the swivel will be loose. Some machines have plungers that bear on the mechanism. They can get stuck if the swivel is left in one place for years.

Regards Tyrone.
 
The Table is now straight!
He did as suggested by Thermite and all went well.... sure was "glued" stuck!
Now that it is straight it can re-glue itself.
Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll pass on the link to the manual.

Cheers
Jan
 








 
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