lkydvl
Plastic
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2009
- Location
- SW MN, USA
Somehow I seem to find and acquire S&W N frames. Just the frames.. I have two waiting for completion. I have a bunch of S&W parts so putting them together isn’t hard. I used to build a number of custom hunting revolvers back in the 70’s so am versed in the fitting, tuning of such things.
One needs the nickle stripped off so I can repair cuts made thru it. They were made in non critical areas of the frame so that one is pretty easy.
The other has a longer more painful story. I’ll spare the details at this point but I need to make some serious changes to this revolver’s modus operandi! The frame was split under the barrel threads. The area is too thin to weld up and rethread. Am thinking about reaming the threads out and making a bushing to fit inside the frame there. Then weld that in place and rethread. The underside of the that area is a precise fit to the yoke/crane and could be a problem to refit.
This would necessitate a smaller diam barrel extension and a reduced caliber. 357 might do but 32 or 30 cal would be even better. The 357 Mag would be easy to finish up as a std 27/28 cylinder could be fitted.
32 Mag or 30 Reece/30 Badger would be “cooler” and provide a higher safety margin. The cylinder becomes a serious obstacle tho. Starting with either a 27/28, 57 0r 29 cylinder one would need to sleeve then then rechamber.
Barrels for any would be a custom made item.
Another wilder option would be to repair the frame as above then weld the yoke/crane in place. Then convert the cylinder/yoke to a removable type ala SAA.
Carried further a “cylinder” like the Ruger Hawkeye could be made and there would be no need to mess with the entire cylinder rotation, extraction, removal issues.
First steps are the same for any approach. Ream, make and fit the frame bushing.
You scholarly gents have time to critique and offer other options. What ya got?
Andre`
One needs the nickle stripped off so I can repair cuts made thru it. They were made in non critical areas of the frame so that one is pretty easy.
The other has a longer more painful story. I’ll spare the details at this point but I need to make some serious changes to this revolver’s modus operandi! The frame was split under the barrel threads. The area is too thin to weld up and rethread. Am thinking about reaming the threads out and making a bushing to fit inside the frame there. Then weld that in place and rethread. The underside of the that area is a precise fit to the yoke/crane and could be a problem to refit.
This would necessitate a smaller diam barrel extension and a reduced caliber. 357 might do but 32 or 30 cal would be even better. The 357 Mag would be easy to finish up as a std 27/28 cylinder could be fitted.
32 Mag or 30 Reece/30 Badger would be “cooler” and provide a higher safety margin. The cylinder becomes a serious obstacle tho. Starting with either a 27/28, 57 0r 29 cylinder one would need to sleeve then then rechamber.
Barrels for any would be a custom made item.
Another wilder option would be to repair the frame as above then weld the yoke/crane in place. Then convert the cylinder/yoke to a removable type ala SAA.
Carried further a “cylinder” like the Ruger Hawkeye could be made and there would be no need to mess with the entire cylinder rotation, extraction, removal issues.
First steps are the same for any approach. Ream, make and fit the frame bushing.
You scholarly gents have time to critique and offer other options. What ya got?
Andre`
