A little background, I am a auto mechanic by trade and and an amateur gunsmith/machinist I recently got a 12ga SxS that was`cut down with a hacksaw, the barrel is 20+" I saw the choke reamers and taps but I do more rifle than anything and cant spend $300 on tools for a 100 gun (Boito made in Brazil). What is the correct way to shorten a barrel (I know the cut on mine isn't straight) How can I fill the space between the barrels? Is there a cheaper way to install some kind of choke. I dont mind spending a little money, I consider this a practice gun and am more concerned with learning than anything else. I only have 1.5" to work with (I want to keep it about 19" just in case) Any help would be appreciated.
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shorting a shotgun barrel
- Thread starter kz400
- Start date
- Replies 6
- Views 4,898
All I would do is get a bright light, a good square, and a file to square up the barrels, followed by a deburr.
If you're adventurous, you could make a "reamer" to produce jug chokes, and now that I think about that, the gun you have is a perfect mule for trying this. Wouldn't cost more than your time and maybe a modified cylinder hone for small engines.
If you're adventurous, you could make a "reamer" to produce jug chokes, and now that I think about that, the gun you have is a perfect mule for trying this. Wouldn't cost more than your time and maybe a modified cylinder hone for small engines.
I would grind the muzzles to appear correct on a belt grinder. You could use a square but will have to take into account that the barrels are tapered and the muzzle face/barrel angle will be something greater than 90 degrees. I have filled the void between the barrels and the rib with epoxy putty that I have added soot to make it black.
Why do you want chokes in it? Cylinder bore is just fine for a close range gun like that.
Why do you want chokes in it? Cylinder bore is just fine for a close range gun like that.
Done this game on a practice shotgun.
$5.00 auction purchase, excelent piece to practice and learn on. The stock was broken, a hammer was missing, the locks would not stay cocked and there was a hose clamp around the barrels. Suprisingly, the hinge joint was still tigh. Lots of problems to corect and not valuable enought to worry about mistakes.
Sodering the gap between the barrels was done by pluging the gap with a little steel wool and then sodering over it in with some low temp solder. Over filled and cleaned up with a file.
Turned a circular plug the ID of the bore, with a small shoulder at a right angle out of brass. It was a very light slip fit and long enough to avoid any rattle. This created a "circular square" that provided a referance for filing the end true. A little time with a file and some lay out blue produced more than addiquate results. Shotguns dont have to have a "perfect" crown.
Drilled and tapped for a new bead when everything else was done.
$5.00 auction purchase, excelent piece to practice and learn on. The stock was broken, a hammer was missing, the locks would not stay cocked and there was a hose clamp around the barrels. Suprisingly, the hinge joint was still tigh. Lots of problems to corect and not valuable enought to worry about mistakes.
Sodering the gap between the barrels was done by pluging the gap with a little steel wool and then sodering over it in with some low temp solder. Over filled and cleaned up with a file.
Turned a circular plug the ID of the bore, with a small shoulder at a right angle out of brass. It was a very light slip fit and long enough to avoid any rattle. This created a "circular square" that provided a referance for filing the end true. A little time with a file and some lay out blue produced more than addiquate results. Shotguns dont have to have a "perfect" crown.
Drilled and tapped for a new bead when everything else was done.
Very good way of doing it right there
have used the steel wool and solder more than once with great success.
Thanks for a great idea, I had never heard of jug choking before but after reading up on it it will be perfect I also have a wheel cylinder hone that should do the job, I read that the area opened up needs to be 1.5-2 times the shot collumn and 2-3" from the muzzle I cant any dimensions for how much to open it up, is there a way to calculate this or should I just start at .005" pattern and re test. Sorry about misspelling shortening in the title I saw it and cant figure out how to edit the title. Thanks everyone for all your help I start squaring off the barrels tonight.
