I just started another barrel job and noticed that my written notes are getting to greasy to read so I decided to start using the computer for something practical. As if video games, porn, music and movies are impractical! I’ll start dropping these drawings here as ambition allows it. Would appreciate it if others did the same. Especially on the newer stuff. It helps to have a rough drawing to look at when quoting jobs. I have been caught several times over the years having to cut a freak metric thread or a complicated extension after I had quoted for a simple job.
I know the rips and grease all too well, but keep up the good work with your extension drawings along with the brief history - great reference material....
Maybe the moderator(s) could sticky this thread???
I think you might want to check Page 2 of your PDF Large Ring Mauser 98 - I am sure the thread length is a typo.
LOL His old notes are as bad as my 30 year old notes Karl I think the top just wore off the 6 in .625 inch. That's why I'm redoing all of mine right now. I look at some of em and all I can think is W. T. F. !?!?!?!?
OK I had to do some scronching and squitching to make all this work and I will post the text separately here. The forum software reforms the JPGs and makes them to small to read. Sorry, not me it's the software saving storage space.
BSA Martini Cadet *** 14 TPI 60 degree V thread. The Martini can be a real pain in the ass to barrel if certain steps are not followed. The barrel extension and threads must first be cut and threads must be to a class 4 fit. The .650 inch ring on the face is important as it will later be used to find center. It does not have to be .650 but a ring should be there.
After figure A is complete the barrel must be screwed on to the receiver tightly with an action wrench and the threads worked several times to remove all crush otherwise the barrel will screw over center when you are taking it on and off to final fit the extractor. YOU WILL FORGET THIS STEP ONCE IN YOUR LIFE! Witness mark the barrel and receiver at this point. With the barrel in a vise level the receiver and then clamp a machinist clamp on the barrel and level the clamp to the side of the receiver. This will allow you to level the barrel to make the extractor cut.
.Proceed to figure B and level and square the barrel in the mill vice and slab off to establish the 90 degree cut for the top of the extractor. This cut is approximately .020 inch below center. I use a woodruff key cutter but the barrel can be inverted and the cut made with an endmill.
Finally, figure C, reposition and level the barrel in the vise to 12 degrees and slab off the rest of the extractor cut with a woodruff cutter or endmill.
Screw the barrel back on to the receiver and check for extractor fit with layout fluid and file if necessary. File the barrel, NOT THE EXTRACTOR! You can set the barrel back if you screw up but finding a new extractor is next to impossible and they are a bitch to make. You will make that mistake JUST ONCE in your life as well.
Cut the chamber by hand with a SMALL T handle. Do not bother to try to cut the chamber and extractor at the same time by clamping the two together. The extractors can be quite tough and can destroy the reamer, or push the reamer up and create an egg shaped chamber. Final fit the extractor to the chamber with a soft stone or what ever you are comfortable with.
These measurements are approximate and only actual measurements taken from the action to be barreled should ever be used. No two Martinis are alike.
Last edited by speerchucker30x3; 08-28-2011 at 02:34 PM.
North(very) West(very) Ohio...near exit 13 on OH turnpike
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Originally Posted by speerchucker30x3
OK I had to do some scronching and squitching to make all this work and I will post the text separately here. The forum software reforms the JPGs and makes them to small to read. Sorry, not me it's the software saving storage space.
BSA Martini Cadet *** 14 TPI 60 degree V thread. The Martini can be a real pain in the ass to barrel if certain steps are not followed. The barrel extension and threads must first be cut and threads must be to a class 4 fit. The .650 inch ring on the face is important as it will later be used to find center. It does not have to be .650 but a ring should be there.
After figure A is complete the barrel must be screwed on to the receiver tightly with an action wrench and the threads worked several times to remove all crush otherwise the barrel will screw over center when you are taking it on and off to final fit the extractor. YOU WILL FORGET THIS STEP ONCE IN YOUR LIFE! Witness mark the barrel and receiver at this point. With the barrel in a vise level the receiver and then clamp a machinist clamp on the barrel and level the clamp to the side of the receiver. This will allow you to level the barrel to make the extractor cut.
.Proceed to figure B and level and square the barrel in the mill vice and slab off to establish the 90 degree cut for the top of the extractor. This cut is approximately .020 inch below center. I use a woodruff key cutter but the barrel can be inverted and the cut made with an endmill.
Finally, figure C, reposition and level the barrel in the vise to 12 degrees and slab off the rest of the extractor cut with a woodruff cutter or endmill.
Screw the barrel back on to the receiver and check for extractor fit with layout fluid and file if necessary. File the barrel, NOT THE EXTRACTOR! You can set the barrel back if you screw up but finding a new extractor is next to impossible and they are a bitch to make. You will make that mistake JUST ONCE in your life as well.
Cut the chamber by hand with a SMALL T handle. Do not bother to try to cut the chamber and extractor at the same time by clamping the two together. The extractors can be quite tough and can destroy the reamer, or push the reamer up and create an egg shaped chamber. Final fit the extractor to the chamber with a soft stone or what ever you are comfortable with.
These measurements are approximate and only actual measurements taken from the action to be barreled should ever be used. No two Martinis are alike.
I'm really into this one. I have a 310 martini that my dad fit a section of a 1903a3 barrel to and he chambered it to 32 S&W long with a chucking reamer. I have a length of Pacnor 1/8 twist 30 caliber barrel and have considered having Dake Kiff make a reamer for 327 federal with a .308 throat. I also have a "Snap" extractor with the full instructions but all in all I think single shots should use rimmed ctg. I also considered a rimmed 300 blackout made from 357 maximum brass...but there is little gain there over the 327 federal I bet. The 1/8 twist would be for subsonic use with a supressor.
LOL His old notes are as bad as my 30 year old notes Karl I think the top just wore off the 6 in .625 inch. That's why I'm redoing all of mine right now. I look at some of em and all I can think is W. T. F. !?!?!?!?
You say that like it's something out of the ordinary? Nearly every time I pick up some old reference material that I've notated, that same acronym comes to mind. "WTF?"
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Originally Posted by Johnny V
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