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Thread: Barrel Vise?
11-22-2011, 02:48 PM #1
Do any companies manufacture a barrel vise that would work with an AK47 or AK74 barrel?
11-22-2011, 04:16 PM #2
11-22-2011, 07:17 PM #3
Most ak's the barrels are pressed in. The few that are threaded are milled reciever guns and have flats on the barrel for a wrench.
For removing and installing pressed in barrels, use a shop press or there are tools available from akbuilder.com and dph arms. Check out the akfiles.com forum as well.
11-22-2011, 09:18 PM #4
Make your own. I have made several different types over the years. Take a block of AL, bore your desired hole size, mill a step on each side to keep it from falling in vise, then cut in half.
If you need a special type mill the whole thing out. I made several sets for the M1 Carbine. Sold them all, should have kept one but everyone wanted a set.
11-23-2011, 08:42 AM #5
I have seen a few Yogo made AK's with threaded in barrels and no wrench flats.
The barrels were tight, an a well fit set of vise blocks was needed.
The end of the milled reciever was fully hardened on the ones I played with, and I just used a big crescent wrench with an extended handle to pop them loose.
I have also seen a few AK's them with pins that were well hidden.
My vise rarely gets used, so I built it to tie down to the mill table. You can use a big cheater bar that way.
11-26-2011, 03:39 PM #6
Removing threaded AK47 barrels
I have removed a few threaded in AK47 barrels from guns with machined receivers. All of them have been very tight. I suggest forgetting about "wrench flats" even if they are on the barrel; whatever wrench you use might slip. I use a Brownells barrel clamp, the type that uses split shell-type inserts. I have one blank split shell insert that I use for many different barrels by using Acraglass Steel bed...just mix and pour into the inserts using about a 1/4 in spacer to keep the inserts apart and let dry. Then cure the Steel Bed for 3 days (I put them over a heater vent with my furnace at about 68 degrees.). If you coat the barrel and the inside of the inserts with release agent everything comes apart easily. When ready to use, dissolve a pinch of rosin in a small amount of alcohol and paint it on the barrel and both sides of the Steel Bed castings. When dry you have a even coat of rosin. Assemble the barrel and inserts into the barrel vise and torque the 4 cap screws. I use a standard action wrench for single-shot flat side actions, supporting the inside of the receiver with a block of steel thet fits the inside of the receiver exactly to prevent twising-probably not needed but I use it. One or 2 good whacks with a small sledge hammer will loosen the receiver from the barrel. Check the witness mark on the bottom of the barrel/receiver for progress. I have a box full of these inserts for many different guns and if you mark the indide of the inserts before you add the Steel Bed (I use a Dremel), you can be sure to reassemble the castings properly at a future date. Once you have the Steel bed castings made, it's simple to remove many barrels..and you can do any weird contour. I work on some old guns with one of a kind barrel contours and this method works every time without risking damage to an expensive gun. Brownells has instructions how to do this if my ramblings are less than clear (it's their idea not mine). Best of luck.
11-27-2011, 03:56 PM #7
11-27-2011, 07:53 PM #8
Basically yes. Steelbed is Acraglas with stainless steel powder mixed in. I use the standard Brownell's barrel vise with the "blank" split bushings and add the Steelbed to make a casting that's a perfect fit for any barrel contour. This method is slow but allows the removal of any barrel without damage.
11-27-2011, 08:19 PM #9
11-28-2011, 02:15 PM #10
If you are planning to trash the old barrel, an ordinary pipe wrench is the best way to grasp it. Obviously this severely marks the barrel but the trash can isn't going to care.
Put the action wrench on the receiver and lay it on the floor; then put the pipe wrench on the barrel so it is a few inches off the floor and stand on the action wrench at the receiver end and the pipe wrench at the end of the handle. I haven't found anything that is screwed in that resists this procedure.
Bubba, you say? Maybe, but the key point here is trash; I see no point in babying something I am going to trash.