Best reamer holder?

Long Tom · Mar 26, 2014

Howdy folks! Have not been here in a while- got busy with a lot of more general machine work.

I recently received the blank for my first chambering job. It's a 1:8 SS Pac-Nor SM in .22 and I'm going to chamber it .223AI. I had them contour it- best $15 ever- but leave me with about 6" of shank so I can cut a few practice chambers.

I've built a lot of the tooling I need... a nice direct-mount cathead chuck... a tool to engage the muzzle inside the spindle of my deep headstock to allow precise adjustments to the position... an action jig, a bolt jig, action vise, barrel vise... I *think* I'm a reamer holder, range rod set, Mit 513-504 gauge, and little carbide boring bar away from getting rolling here.

I know the type of reamer holder has tie-ins to the actual method used to chamber, but the details escape me now that I have not thought about this in a while. I would appreciate any advice on which type to get. Cost is somewhat irrelevant but I don't like spending money gratuitously either.

Looking forward to this! Taking apart my perfectly good (other than twist) .223 will be the big first step <grin>. After that I'm committed.

hepburnman · Mar 26, 2014

Hi- I am coming up about the same learning curve you are in prepping for doing my first barrel chambering and I have made two floating reamer holders that may interest you (among other things). These were designed from reading a lot of past postings from others and my own deciphering of what might make a good holder. Take a look at my recent posting here titled "Trinkets (Handmade) in Prep For Chambering - No Waffling, Just Work Making Chips!". Since I havent yet used these I cannot say how well they will work but they are not far off of what others have used with good results. Good luck with things!

ditchdigger · Mar 26, 2014

Hep, what you have made for your reamer is known as a "reamer pusher", a floating holder is held in the tail stock/end slide. Chucking reamers and taps use floating holders on production machines, and they work well. I think it was Erickson that used to make a darned good one. You might find a true floating holder on E-Bay, new ones are quit expensive, the shanks are for production machines, usually not a #3 M.T. or similar. And, floating holders made by some of the reamer companies are different than those used for tapping/reaming straight holes. They're kinda' old fashioned, like was used on B&S single spindle automatics. Check Manson Reamers, Clymer used to make one, and check JGS Tool,,,,,,, or, make one! The one I made probably didn't take me an hour. It may be dedicated to the lathe I use for chambering, but, it's fool proof! It's an easy task for an experienced machinist.

hepburnman · Mar 26, 2014

Ditchdigger- please show us a picture of your holder.

My floating reamer holder "floats" by nature that the ball bearing in the back bears against the smooth flat face of an arbor that has the same taper as the tail stock. The holder can move off-axis parallel to the bore or can pivot if the bore is not straight thru the barrel. The only caveat is that you have to hold the holder up against the arbor and also keep the holder/reamer from spinning. I hear that the Bald Eagle and possibly JGS(?) are similar designs but design the low-friction-sliding/pivot feature differently.

t do the

300sniper · Mar 26, 2014

I used a JGS holder to cut the chamber in the videos I posted a while back. After 50-75 chambers, it finally started getting a bit looser than I cared for so I sent it back to be repaired. $5 and change for return shipping and a few day turn around and it is rebuilt with some new parts. I really love this holder and they have great customer service.

Old Cone · Mar 27, 2014

I adapted a Boyar Shultz 1/2 " capacity floating holder to a #3 Morse taper shank, doubt if I will wear it out cutting chambers. It is adjustable. Only brand that I found to reliable in my automatic screw machines both multi and single spindle. I cut from the tailstock with an indicator for depth.

ditchdigger · Mar 27, 2014

No need for a pic, Hep. Nothing can be learned from just a pic. It looks just like a Clymer. The key to my set-up is the way it was made and the way my lathe is set-up. I just went straight on back to the basics maunal machine builders used for many, many years. It's all about the basic mechanics. Learned 'um 35+ years ago. No bells, no whisles,,, just common sense. The "light" came on during my 2 weeks at the Acme plant, in Cleveland, where I got to see "how it was done", many moons ago. From then on, I understood why it worked so well! I guess you can call your holder whatever you want, Hep. But, in the trade, what you have is known as a "pusher". Call it a "floating holder" and most all will think it is mounted in the tail stock. We used "floating holders" for tapping and reaming all the time on the Acmes. I wouldn't want to hold one by hand, like yours is. Might not have a hand. Like I said, mines 'dedicated' to my chambering lathe. Go back to the basis and forget the fancy stuff. Works every time for me. I used the same idea on a Haas SL-20, not long ago, when it gave me troubles I couldn't fix any other way.

Long Tom · Mar 27, 2014

I'm remembering, now, that the way one holds the reamer ties directly to how they chamber, which is endlessly arguable.

So... any reason to spend the $300 on the PT&G unit?

wesg · Mar 28, 2014

Long Tom said:
So... any reason to spend the $300 on the PT&G unit?

Yeah, if you can't think of a single other thing you'd rather spend it on ;-)

ditchdigger · Mar 28, 2014

Long Tom said:
I'm remembering, now, that the way one holds the reamer ties directly to how they chamber, which is endlessly arguable.

So... any reason to spend the $300 on the PT&G unit?

NONE! Mine came out of the scrap box!

GGaskill · Mar 28, 2014

If you can't do a good job any other way, go for it.

Red_SC · Apr 2, 2014

I just ordered one myself, it's a $60 Manson type from the auction site. Should be delivered tomorrow so we'll see how well it works. That type makes the most sense to me.

hepburnman · Apr 15, 2014

Red_SC said:
I just ordered one myself, it's a $60 Manson type from the auction site. Should be delivered tomorrow so we'll see how well it works. That type makes the most sense to me.

Hi- Did you try out the new reamer holder and how did it go?

allloutmx · Apr 15, 2014

http://www.commandtool.com/assets/uploads/general/flyer_true zero.pdf

vettepicking · Apr 18, 2014

hepburnman just for the record - your reamer "pusher not holder" still sucks and is the poorest idea I've seen on PM. but you seem like a nice guy.

vettepicking · Apr 19, 2014

your custom tools sound well done. post some pics of your tools. for an idea instead of buying tons of range rods for different calibers , you should make a DIY grizzly rod from some long drill rod blank, then tap one end to fit PTG bushings., ive been kicking that idea around for awhile.

Long Tom said:
Howdy folks! Have not been here in a while- got busy with a lot of more general machine work.

I recently received the blank for my first chambering job. It's a 1:8 SS Pac-Nor SM in .22 and I'm going to chamber it .223AI. I had them contour it- best $15 ever- but leave me with about 6" of shank so I can cut a few practice chambers.

I've built a lot of the tooling I need... a nice direct-mount cathead chuck... a tool to engage the muzzle inside the spindle of my deep headstock to allow precise adjustments to the position... an action jig, a bolt jig, action vise, barrel vise... I *think* I'm a reamer holder, range rod set, Mit 513-504 gauge, and little carbide boring bar away from getting rolling here.

I know the type of reamer holder has tie-ins to the actual method used to chamber, but the details escape me now that I have not thought about this in a while. I would appreciate any advice on which type to get. Cost is somewhat irrelevant but I don't like spending money gratuitously either.

Looking forward to this! Taking apart my perfectly good (other than twist) .223 will be the big first step <grin>. After that I'm committed.

Butch Lambert · Apr 20, 2014

vettepicking,
Your post shows a lack of experience chambering barrels. I will not go to the trouble of posting my method for the 5th time on this forum. That is what the search feature is for.

vettepicking · Apr 20, 2014

Butch nobody was talking to you. plus you don't know my ability from one post, but your post does show that most gunsmiths are arrogant "nonworthy" asshole's on here.

Butch Lambert said:
vettepicking,
Your post shows a lack of experience chambering barrels. I will not go to the trouble of posting my method for the 5th time on this forum. That is what the search feature is for.

Butch Lambert · Apr 20, 2014

I'll try again as my last post disappeared. vette guy, your last post regarding a the reamer pusher shows your lack of experience and training. Don't blame speer for leaving the forum. I've been away for some time and will probably be gone for awhile. Too many inexperienced guys giving info to people that need real qualified help.
I will post this again. I was probably working in the machineshop before your mother dropped you out or at least when you were still shitting yellow.

vettepicking · Apr 20, 2014

butch = who . speer = who? I have reamed more holes on center then your Pop's at a whore house. I used to work at a machine shop too , now I own one .

Butch Lambert said:
I'll try again as my last post disappeared. vette guy, your last post regarding a the reamer pusher shows your lack of experience and training. Don't blame speer for leaving the forum. I've been away for some time and will probably be gone for awhile. Too many inexperienced guys giving info to people that need real qualified help.
I will post this again. I was probably working in the machineshop before your mother dropped you out or at least when you were still shitting yellow.

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