CZ Firing Pin

rawcustomknives · Mar 1, 2017

Long time lurker, first time poster. I've been toying with the idea of finding a speed pin for my CZ 550 in 22-250, problem is there doesn't seem to be any in standard production. However, it doesn't seem to be much of a job to fabricate one especially if you used the front steel (striker part of the pin) and threaded a replacement aluminum body behind it. Any ideas why this wouldn't work, and anyone on here up to the task?

Also I'm well aware of the minimal effects of toying with lock time, but it's something that does matter enough to me to toy with, so please don't bother with posts about "not worth it".
Thank you

partsproduction · Mar 2, 2017

Not a gunsmith, but I've never seen even 7075 take much banging compared to hardened tool steel. But you know the old trapdoor Sprigfields and the 1900 38 Auto Colt pistols used bronze firing pins. I wouldn't think bronze would be a good choice either.

GeneT · Mar 2, 2017

I'd pin it instead of or in addition to threading, but otherwise it should work. It's been done on a lot of other bolt guns. You could also lightly skeletonize the firing pin shaft (not the steel part!)- maybe flutes? - to get some more weight out.

rawcustomknives · Mar 2, 2017

If you look at Tubbs speed pins (which i have in my remingtons)the front half is steel back through the stop collar. An aluminum shaft sit's behind that, and I would guess is threaded to the steel. So the shaft that is covered by the spring is aluminum, but the parts slamming into the bolt body and primer remain steel. You can also affect your lock time by getting heavier bolt springs but I don't enjoy the added bolt lift.

rawcustomknives · Mar 2, 2017

I see Rem's new 700s have fluted the pin body behind the lock collar. You still get a substantial weight reduction switching to a non-fluted aluminum. I weighed them and probably wrote the numbers down somewhere.

Gazz · Mar 2, 2017

I believe the Trapdoor firing pins were a beryllium copper alloy or at least I read that somewhere.

rawcustomknives · Mar 2, 2017

Example of what I would like done. This is a Remington 700 pin, so the CZ 550 would be a different profile, but you get the idea.

FredC · Mar 2, 2017

Be careful with 2 piece firing pins. If not set up correctly the steel pin could keep going when the aluminum shank potion comes to a dead stop in the bolt body, that could pierce a primer.

rawcustomknives · Mar 2, 2017

FredC said:
Be careful with 2 piece firing pins. If not set up correctly the steel pin could keep going when the aluminum shank potion comes to a dead stop in the bolt body, that could pierce a primer.

If you look at the example picture, this would not be possible since the steel extends from the pin to the stop collar, which slams into the bolt body when the firing pin is released. The aluminum shaft behind it only serves to link the front pin to the back catch of the sear and functions as spring guide.

Not to get too far off in the weeds, but I'm really looking for a machinist that would be interested in performing this service for me. I would tackle it myself but I do not own a lathe.

Butch Lambert · Mar 2, 2017

This is a huge waste of time. You may end up with not enough energy to ignite the primer. I know of several people that have thrown their lightweight pins away. On my Bat action BR rifles, myself and multiple people have added a tungsten weight to ours. I don't understand what you are trying to achieve. I'll guarantee you will see nothing on the target that will justify your time and money. You would have better luck replacing the trigger assembly (probably 15 pieces) with an aftermarket unit. I've had a 550 for many years and like it.
This is one of mine.

rawcustomknives · Mar 2, 2017

Well obviously you didn't read the bottom of my post, or felt it didn't apply to you. I'm not looking for a debate on firing pin weight, I'm looking for a machinist. I have several light weight pins and I prefer them, but that is neither here nor there, I don't need to justify my preference.

Butch Lambert · Mar 2, 2017

rawcustomknives said:
Well obviously you didn't read the bottom of my post, or felt it didn't apply to you. I'm not looking for a debate on firing pin weight, I'm looking for a machinist. I have several light weight pins and I prefer them, but that is neither here nor there, I don't need to justify my preference.

Hey kid, you will learn, but the hard way I guess.

rawcustomknives · Mar 2, 2017

Butch Lambert said:
Hey kid, you will learn, but the hard way I guess.

Well kid I'm fine with that.

Butch Lambert · Mar 2, 2017

Chuckle, chuckle, chuckle,
You are a kind of guy to have fun with.

rawcustomknives · Mar 2, 2017

I was thinking the same thing!

FredC · Mar 2, 2017

rawcustomknives said:
If you look at the example picture, this would not be possible since the steel extends from the pin to the stop collar, which slams into the bolt body when the firing pin is released. The aluminum shaft behind it only serves to link the front pin to the back catch of the sear and functions as spring guide.

Not to get too far off in the weeds, but I'm really looking for a machinist that would be interested in performing this service for me. I would tackle it myself but I do not own a lathe.

Looking at your drawing again that vertical line is between the to materials? If so you idea will also be safe from one of the other dangerous failure modes, having the pin separated and discharge accidentally.
You may have both these covered in your mind and be OK, but someone else may read this thread 2 years from now and not see the possibilities of catastrophic failure by not catching the details of your drawing.

Butch Lambert · Mar 2, 2017

rawcustomknives said:
I was thinking the same thing!

Do you stay up late?

rawcustomknives · Mar 2, 2017

Sorry about that. It's not my drawing, but a picture of a Tubb speed pin you could find on google. And yes by halving the materials at the stop collar, it seems to minimize the obvious failures, probably why Tubb's makes them that way.

GeneT · Mar 3, 2017

rawcustomknives said:
Not to get too far off in the weeds, but I'm really looking for a machinist that would be interested in performing this service for me. I would tackle it myself but I do not own a lathe.

I doubt you'll find that here. If you have a community college with a machining program, or a local gunsmith with a lathe, you can probably get it sooner and for no more money than you will here.

GsT

rawcustomknives · Mar 3, 2017

Thanks Gene, will do!

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