Thread: Found some barrel blanks

Hello
I bought two 30 cal barrel blanks.They are 1-12 twist and 1.25" in diameter.I also have a Savage model 10.
The next instalment of this thread will be when I receive my order from Mansons.

MARK

Nice, what cartridge are you going to chamber them for?

Gary

Hello
The .308 reamer and range rod have arrived.
I'm going to try and profile the barrel between centers next.
1.055" for 6 inches,then 1" straight.
I want to keep this project as simple as possible,because I am dipping my toe in the water here.
Any advise will be gratefully recieved.
MARK

Barrel profiling is definitely a learning experience. It is doable but after a couple, I concluded that it is better to order the profile that you need.

Use a follower rest and dont overheat the barrel turning it. I useally profile barrels using a HSS bit with a chip breaker ground in to it.

Originally Posted by boucher

Barrel profiling is definitely a learning experience. It is doable but after a couple, I concluded that it is better to order the profile that you need.

I bet it is,but I got these barrels at a price that meant I didn't mind a little work on them.All part of the learning curve.

i would practice on a couple pieces of round stock before turning a barrel.
i have found that doing a test run saves money in the long run if you are doing something for the first time

If you do not have a follower rest you can yse the steady and to it in sections. Turning a taper is as easy as offsetting the tailstock, and IMHO well worth the extra time :-).

Bill

Mark,
Assuming that you don't have a tracer for your lathe. What works good for profiling is to bring the barrel to a general dimension by "stepping" it and then get your RPM down low and start blending with a file. You need to keep the file from stopping in a spot or it will load up and gouge the heck out of the surface. Obviously, you want to really stay keen on carding the teeth frequently and keep it chalked. I just took one of the 1.125" "gunsmith" blanks and turned it down to a Trapper configuration for my 1892 in 38-40. I also used the forearm as my profiling template, so that when I was done, there are no gaps and I didn't have to relieve the wood. I was a little surprised when I first saw one of the gunsmithing instructors doing it for himself and I asked him about it. They didn't share that as a regular part of the course, but he took the time to show me a wispy little lightweight barrel he was making for rifle of his own. It is something that you will need to get a feel for, but it is not difficult, just use caution working around the chuck. If you have collets available, they would be an even safer way to work in closer without the concern of getting turned into a twist tie. That was why they did not teach that little trick, extracting students from the equipment would not go over well. After you have the barrel shaped, a little work on the belt sander blends out the last of the roughness. Be safe and good luck.

Mark

Hello
I'm stuck and I want to ask a bit of guidance
I might chuck it in my homemade spiders and turn 4" of muzzle end down to 0.75".I then think that I should insert that end into my inch collet and place a revolving center in the chamber end and turn to 1.055" for threading.Then I can turn it around,so that the chamber end is in the 4 jaw and profile it somehow,ending with the last 20" of barrel at .75".
How crucial is cutting a chamfer on the bore for the centers?Will a revolving center find its own center on the lands?

MARK

Mark,
As long as the end of the barrel is trued, you are correct that the live center will find a home on the lands, which is not much harm since you will re-crown the muzzle or cut the chamber on the respective ends. You may scar up your center without a chamfer if the material is softer than the barrel.

Mark