Grizzly DF-1237g opinions?

JHOSKINS · Aug 29, 2016

Newbie here and I have read enough to know that oriental origin lathes are frowned upon by many here so I put this question here as my main purpose to purchase a lathe is to play around with some gunsmithing.

I was really considering an Eisen 1236gh as it is made in Taiwan which I know everyone says is a step up. I am also considering a new 4003g simply for the price/use value it will give me.

In my search, I ran across an older Grizzly 1237g in what appears to be near new condition with many of the main accessories. From what I can tell from my searching, the downside is that parts are hard to come by. Plus side it was made in Taiwan and seems to be good quality in consideration of what it is. They are asking $1400 for it and I can probably get it for less.

So my options right now are:

Eisen: ~ $5500 with options including dro.

4003g: ~ $3300 with my 10% coupon. No dro.

grizzly 1237g: ~$1400 no dro. I can run it before buying.

Is the extra money worth it or is the 1237 a reasonable contender for a home shop. I can afford the others, but don't really see paying more than I need to.

Your input is appreciated.

michiganbuck · Aug 29, 2016

[to play around with some gunsmithing.]

With a steady, a 3 and 4 jaw and running well you should not have a problem getting back your money..and it will give a feel for a new hobby.

Richard King · Aug 29, 2016

Just saw a Cant say the name of the machine on here but it's a bear. I had a student bring a bear mill to the class in Boston and the Bear factory used an angle grinder to match fit the column to the base. I WOULD STEER AWAY FROM ANY OF THAT JUNK. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR.

JHOSKINS · Aug 29, 2016

michiganbuck said:
[to play around with some gunsmithing.]

With a steady, a 3 and 4 jaw and running well you should not have a problem getting back your money..and it will give a feel for a new hobby.

Thanks, that is kind of what I am thinking. I probably should have added, I have a mini lathe that I have made various parts on it with general success. It has been a great way to learn some basics. Even when I say "play around" I am expecting pretty darn good results so long as I take my time and perform each process with focus. I am pretty finicky, but I have no expectation of speed work. I think I will go take a look at the 1237 and see how it runs.

michiganbuck · Aug 29, 2016

Still, I have a lot of respect for Richard and he says No. So do consider that.
Gun shop up in Onaway bought a Bear about that size. My gunsmith here, in the near Detroit area, is an older guy and he is using the same Logan his dad used for 40 years. So I am thinking the machine perhaps 70 or so years old. Yes, you have to give the motor a tug to get it started.

JHOSKINS · Aug 29, 2016

I have nothing but respect for anyone here. My issue is I don't have the room or equipment to move a 2,000lb lathe. I completely understand and agree you get what you pay for, but I also know this is an occasional use machine. I can't justify $10k on a lathe that gets used 20 times a year. At this point, it's more about what will give me more control than what I have without going crazy.

michiganbuck · Aug 29, 2016

Do run it through all functions, You will need a steady IMHO and good to have a decent 4 jaw.
Dont want to put out 1500 and another grand for stuff.

JHOSKINS · Aug 29, 2016

It comes with a 3 jaw, 4 jaw, face plate, steady rest, follower rest, and a couple of other items so it should be enough to get started. I will get a QCTP to put on it.

yardbird · Aug 29, 2016

JHOSKINS said:
Newbie here and I have read enough to know that oriental origin lathes are frowned upon by many here so I put this question here as my main purpose to purchase a lathe is to play around with some gunsmithing.

My hat's off to you! Impressive how you did that and I have a feeling it might stick. Then you also know there is possible this could turn south. Clever nonetheless!

Welcome to the board...

Brent

JHOSKINS · Aug 29, 2016

yardbird said:
My hat's off to you! Impressive how you did that and I have a feeling it might stick. Then you also know there is possible this could turn south. Clever nonetheless!

Welcome to the board...

Brent

I was certainly not trying to purposely bypass any rules. If a mods feels the need to delete the thread, no problem. I understand there are guidelines. For me, it was really about a like new old machine vs a newer model of a similar machine question. I suppose one could ask the same questions about one of the preferred American brands for similar reasons. I apologize if the thread offends anyone.

Adwcali · Aug 29, 2016

A gunsmith I know has one of those things. When he needs to do any barrel work he comes out to use my Logan. By the way the Logan weighs about 900 lbs and I didn't pay anywhere near $10k for it.

yardbird · Aug 29, 2016

JHOSKINS said:
I was certainly not trying to purposely bypass any rules. If a mods feels the need to delete the thread, no problem. I understand there are guidelines. For me, it was really about a like new old machine vs a newer model of a similar machine question. I suppose one could ask the same questions about one of the preferred American brands for similar reasons. I apologize if the thread offends anyone.

No you're good! I'm nobody here don't worry about hurting my feelings. It was a complement. Not many newbies come and sniff around first. Apparently you already realize it's all in the approach.

Again welcome to the board...

Brent

Edit: Your title will probably be what getcha more then anything?

Edit2: OP sorry I was unaware this thread was posted on the gun board when I originally posted even though you mentioned guns. :dopeslap:

sealark37 · Aug 29, 2016

You find that an 11" Rockwell lathe will do what you want to do. Examples are available for a fraction of your budget, leaving a few bucks for tooling. They were made with screw-on and cam-lock spindles, both of which work well. Regards, Clark

PeteM · Aug 29, 2016

Assuming it's not significantly worn, the $1400 lathe might be a great place keeper -- maybe even a keeper.

As new, it was a better lathe than either of the other two. You'll have a fraction of the money invested in it and can buy some time to see what else is out there; including the elusive really nice 13" or so American, English, Korean etc. $3000 lathe. Your $1400 lathe will sell for $1400 when you find something better and you'll also know better what you want.

I've seen one of these in a home shop, it looked to be reasonably capable, and the work coming off it also looked very near professional. You won't expect the dials to hit tenths, probably not even .002" as you start learning about things like sharp tools and spring cuts, but it's the best choice of the three IMO.

As others have said there are much better lathes, sometimes on sale for $2500-5000 used. At least around here, those show up pretty rarely. Around here $1500 will also buy a much-used Logan, South Bend, maybe a Sheldon. But after replacing a chipped gear tooth or two, maybe re-bushing some pulleys, pondering if you want to start scraping things, spending another $1000 to find a missing steady, chuck, proper tool post etc. -- you may still have a somewhat lightweight lathe, with a limited through hole, a threaded spindle, dials a bit too small, etc. -- and still be looking for something better.

JHOSKINS · Aug 30, 2016

PeteM said:
Assuming it's not significantly worn, the $1400 lathe might be a great place keeper -- maybe even a keeper.

As new, it was a better lathe than either of the other two. You'll have a fraction of the money invested in it and can buy some time to see what else is out there; including the elusive really nice 13" or so American, English, Korean etc. $3000 lathe. Your $1400 lathe will sell for $1400 when you find something better and you'll also know better what you want.

I've seen one of these in a home shop, it looked to be reasonably capable, and the work coming off it also looked very near professional. You won't expect the dials to hit tenths, probably not even .002" as you start learning about things like sharp tools and spring cuts, but it's the best choice of the three IMO.

As others have said there are much better lathes, sometimes on sale for $2500-5000 used. At least around here, those show up pretty rarely. Around here $1500 will also buy a much-used Logan, South Bend, maybe a Sheldon. But after replacing a chipped gear tooth or two, maybe re-bushing some pulleys, pondering if you want to start scraping things, spending another $1000 to find a missing steady, chuck, proper tool post etc. -- you may still have a somewhat lightweight lathe, with a limited through hole, a threaded spindle, dials a bit too small, etc. -- and still be looking for something better.

Thanks for the feedback. Knowing I don't know what I don't know, it is hard for me to go buy a 30 year old lathe that I am really not sure if it is good or bad. It's easy enough to do a visual check of the gears and run it to make sure no odd noises are there, but it's the little things that I know will get me.

I appreciate everyone's feedback. I am going to check out the 1237 tomorrow and see if it is as good as it looks in the pictures. I am kind of going with the train of thought that if I don't like it I only have $1400 invested and I can sell it easy enough and get something better. I suspect it will be just fine for what I am wanting to do but only time will tell. Thanks everyone.

GenePoole · Aug 30, 2016

It's general knowledge here that the gunsmithing section is pretty much exempt from the forum "foreign" rules that govern the rest of the site.

PeteM · Aug 30, 2016

JHOSKINS said:
Thanks for the feedback. Knowing I don't know what I don't know, it is hard for me to go buy a 30 year old lathe that I am really not sure if it is good or bad. . .

You can find a how-to-check-a-used-guide on the 'net. Look for excessive wear near the headstock. Lightly tighten the carriage clamp (so the carriage barely drags) near the head stock and see if it tightens up as you move to less worn areas. Try every quick change gear and speed. Put a stout bar in the chuck and check for any wobble. Sometimes the back gear pulley (on a bushing, typically) will wobble from bushing wear -- not sure if your model suffers from that. This lathe has a gap bed -- be sure the filler is properly in place. Check for any chipped gears inside the head stock. Make sure the cross and long feeds work. The compound and cross feed should be roughly the same tightness throughout their travel. Check the backlash to make sure it's not excessive. If there's a change gear for metric threads, be sure you get it. Check the spindle thread. There's more -- read up before you go. Some hobbyists lathes are beat. Others haven't seen much use and may be close to new in terms of wear. Hopefully something closer to the latter is what you'll find.

JHOSKINS · Aug 30, 2016

Thank you for the information. I will be sure to look up a guide and check the things you mention.

gzig5 · Aug 30, 2016

The Asian machines can perform very well. I've have VG results with the two I've worked with and Grizzly machines have a decent rep. If you luck across an EMCO (not ENCO) 11 or 13" machine in your budget range that hasn't been abused, jump on it. These are made in Austria and very good small size machines. I was hoping for a 13" but last year found a Super 11 with the mill head and some accessories for less than $2k. It runs circles around the Craftsman 12x36 I'd been using.

michiganbuck · Aug 30, 2016

PeteM said:
You can find a how-to-check-a-used-guide on the 'net. Look for excessive wear near the headstock. Lightly tighten the carriage clamp (so the carriage barely drags) near the head stock and see if it tightens up as you move to less worn areas. Try every quick change gear and speed. Put a stout bar in the chuck and check for any wobble. Sometimes the back gear pulley (on a bushing, typically) will wobble from bushing wear -- not sure if your model suffers from that. This lathe has a gap bed -- be sure the filler is properly in place. Check for any chipped gears inside the head stock. Make sure the cross and long feeds work. The compound and cross feed should be roughly the same tightness throughout their travel. Check the backlash to make sure it's not excessive. If there's a change gear for metric threads, be sure you get it. Check the spindle thread. There's more -- read up before you go. Some hobbyists lathes are beat. Others haven't seen much use and may be close to new in terms of wear. Hopefully something closer to the latter is what you'll find.

*Good to jot Pete"s recommendations down on a notepad to take with you.

I think it is also good to ask a pointd question or two.
"Is there anything wrong with?" Have you had any trouble? Have you used this machine?

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