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Homemade Floating Reamer Holder

hepburnman

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 20, 2013
Location
NJ
I have just about completed my floating reamer holder. I have tried to keep the weight down and also to provide a low-friction point between the end of the reamer holder and the flat in the tail stock (used a steel ball bearing and machined/polished the face of a machinable 2MT arbor). I am hoping that only the knurling will be sufficient to keep the reamer from turning while chambering. I intend to pre-drill and bore prior to reaming.

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Please let us know how it works out. Back in the day when we wanted extra grip on a screwdriver handle we would press a piece of rubber hose over it.
Added later: wish I hadn't said this.
 
We'll, I may have gotten a bit carried away after reading some comments about how little effort was required to hold the reamer from turning (some smaller in stature individual mentioned if he could hold it anyone can!). :-) I could, like Tozguy said, use some rubber material like maybe the round thingy for getting a better grip on a jar top. I could also just add a drill rod out one side (I was trying to avoid that). This reamer holder is 1.1" in diameter. I was originally thinking of making it something like 1.5" in diameter. Would be good to somehow know what I should do what it will take to keep it from turning before I start chambering. I'd hate to have to remove an already indicated barrel out of the head stock to do some other work!!!!
 
Your kidding right? You are intending to hold onto that under power! Count your fingers first. Can you make a fist now? Probably not after it grabs the part!

Good point. A reamer can grab at anytime. If it is OK with Hep, may I ask how to safely hold a reamer steady by hand in work turning at 70 rpm without deflection of the reamer?
 
A very nice chamfered hole going through to close fit a T handle rod that could assist first trying to determine the need.

But even that with a hang up could be dangerous.

With your design at least you can let go if it spins when under power.

You might try hand reaming with the head still and turn by hand with the nice T handle.
 
Looks nice but i think you need to be able to get more purchase. Looks like if it were 1.5" diameter and about 3" longer it would work as planned. Is there a set screw to keep the reamer from turning inside the holder?
 
We'll, I may have gotten a bit carried away after reading some comments about how little effort was required to hold the reamer from turning (some smaller in stature individual mentioned if he could hold it anyone can!). :-) I could, like Tozguy said, use some rubber material like maybe the round thingy for getting a better grip on a jar top. I could also just add a drill rod out one side (I was trying to avoid that). This reamer holder is 1.1" in diameter. I was originally thinking of making it something like 1.5" in diameter. Would be good to somehow know what I should do what it will take to keep it from turning before I start chambering. I'd hate to have to remove an already indicated barrel out of the head stock to do some other work!!!!

That would be me. 5-8, 170 lbs, and not all of it muscle. Mine is 1.5 dia, the gripping portion is 1-1/8 long, and the knurl doesn't cover all of that. Held between the thumb and first finger only.

I've chambered several .308's with it, a 6.5x55, a .284, a couple 22-250's, and a number of puny little things (.223 and .222). Like I said before, no idea if I'd get away with doing a belted mag this way.

How to hold it without deflection? It's stuffed into a bored hole with a taper matching the reamer. I kind of doubt I could pull it off center if I tried. May have to actually try that someday and see what happens. At worst, I think it would oversize the chamber a bit, but probably stay true.

As for slipping in your hand, it's one of those things you don't pussyfoot around with and let go at the first sign of distress. Hang onto the damn thing. You'll get a feel for how hard to feed. Always surprises me how hard you can feed it, and it's never spun in my hand ... yet (knocking on wood). *

I would not use this if the chamber weren't bored to match the body taper of the reamer. I'd use another knurled collar with a thru hole and guide the reamer with the tailstock center. And then go back to this once it's established.

You also need to figure out how deep to bore so the body contacts first, with the throat and neck clear of the bore. I cheat. I have CAD ;-)

* Actually, I take that back. Had one reamer, I think the 6.5x55, that would not cut at all on the body. Wedged into the hole like a Morse taper. Had to send it back to get the margin reduced on it.
 
That's a bad idea. Even high quality reamers grab.
Put a lathe dog style thingie on it so it goes into a grove on the flat face.
It can't turn, but it will still be a floating holder.
 
I will probably make another one at 1.5" in diameter (or maybe at least a slip-on collar-portion) to play it safe (got plenty of ball bearings and to change reamer holders during chambering would not be a problem!). This current knurled portion holder is 1.5" long. I would probably keep the larger diameter one this same length (I'm 6' and 205, so the extra muscle here might do the rest!), ;^)

I will be pre-boring to the taper of the reamer but because its a real slight taper (.40-65) I will have to leave a lot of material in place otherwise it would be too easy to cut into the good stuff (The reamer will have to cut the throat and the neck areas before the pre-bored area and the reamer's main taper come into contact though).
 
Here are two reamer holders I routinly use. As wesg says you hold on to the things! One is a Sinclair neck turning handle with a pusher that goes in a tailstock chuck the other is a no longer made Aurora Machine holder made for me by a now sadly deceased gunsmith. Neither has ever been what I would consider to have been dangerous to use nor has the knurled holder ever taken any skin off. I also pre-drill and pre-bore.

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