Homemade pipe burner for parkerizing or bluing tank

Ok..I have done lots of reading but really never found plans that I could follow ...

I am trying to just use some black iron pipe with like a factory regulator from a home depot or something and 2threaded endcaps..
I have read 5/64 hole size and 1in spacing..
But how do I connect the regulator and hose to this pipe.. mixing chamber and orifice size etc...
Anybody got a simple plan... With a drawing or pics ..
I would really appreciate it...

Thanks

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Charles Hones company:
Propane Pipe Burners | Charles A Hones

The large pipe is 1" schedule 40. Small pipe is 1/2". Note two rows of holes in the large pipe, 3/32" dia. Gas inlet is out of view, on the bottom of the connecting pipe.

The valves and jets are at least 60 years old, likely more. They were salvaged from old gas ovens.

Large pipe burner is for the hot caustic tank. Small pipe for the hot cleaning solution. I have 3 more of the small pipe burners for the other tanks (rinsing, neutralizing, hot water bath).

Note the air inlet for the large burner is made from a reducing coupling with air holes drilled into it. Screw the reducing bushing in or out to adjust the air flow. Don't forget the anti seize on the threads!!!

Small propane regulators do not have enough flow, I use big regulators for welding.





Note the bluing thermometer in the salts tank, buy it from Brownells. The correct temperature is critical. I keep the salts at 285 degrees F.

I have thermometers in the remainder of the tanks.

Use distilled water for mixing the salts and all other hot tanks.

One of the tanks is filled with water displacing oil (not heated).

Hot caustic tank must be steel: Stainless steel will not work, it gives a funny finish to the gun parts. Other tanks are stainless steel, tig welded,I made them in about 1984.

I pull burners after each bluing session and clean them up & spray with a light oil. Store them in a warm place in the shop. Otherwise the gas holes plug up with rust.

The bluing set up is under a shed on the back of the shop with three open sides. Lots of heat and fumes, so you need a lot of outdoors air. Don't even think of putting the tanks in your shop, everything will turn to rust in no time.

truckeic said:

Ok..I have done lots of reading but really never found plans that I could follow ...

I am trying to just use some black iron pipe with like a factory regulator from a home depot or something and 2threaded endcaps..
I have read 5/64 hole size and 1in spacing..
But how do I connect the regulator and hose to this pipe.. mixing chamber and orifice size etc...
Anybody got a simple plan... With a drawing or pics ..
I would really appreciate it...

Thanks

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

If you look at the plumbing layout above, the only part that isn't the regulator attacked to some pipe is the jet. Look up forge burner plans, all they are is a jet which can be as simple as a pipe nipple into which has been drilled a tiny hole, set across a plumbing flange. The jet draws in the air, to mix, and it goes down the tube and out the holes. Since the jet is coming out of a nipple ( a piece of tube that is available at HD with threads on either end), your connections are easy to make to any other tubing or the outflow of your regulator.

I didn't watch it, but this is the standard home burner set up you can follow the name around the internet:

Ron Reil Forge Burner Build - part 1 - YouTube

There is also a place called Hybrid burners that makes burners for forges, and you can look at their stuff, even make your own if you have machining and welding capability.

zoellerforge.com has some designs though I found it more economical to buy the Hybrids, that was before I got the machines.

Another option is to pick up a BBQ. they come with everything you need in the way of a regulator, and a jet, just replace the burner unit with your pipe array.