How to cut the hole in my barrel vise?

Neshek · Sep 15, 2011

I am trying to build a barrel vise. I have it assembled with 4 studs to hold the top to the bottom. It is very similar to others I have seen. The material is from 1018 bar stock, 1.5 x 3 inches. I have been trying some experiments with steel and am not getting very far. I have aluminum shims to separate the top and bottom halves.

So I need to bore a hole through 3 inches of 1018 steel. I have a lathe (13x40 inches) and a Bridgeport milling machine to use. Here are the possibilities that I have thought of, but boring a 3 inch deep hole is puzzling me.

I can drill the starter hole out to 3/4 inch with drills I have.

1. I thought I would attach to a face plate and bore on the lathe. Unless I really balance the face plate I have to keep the rpms low. The vise material weighs about 16 lbs. I'm thinking this is not going to work.

2. I thought about using the mill and a boring head, but my boring head only accepts a 1/2 inch bar. Even if I keep it short, I don't think this is going to work due to flexure and chatter.

3. I could use a rotary table and end mills, but I think I'll still get a lot of chatter.

Okay, I am an amateur machinist at best and not a gunsmith at all, but I could use some suggestions.

Help?
Thanks in advance,
-Art

300sniper · Sep 15, 2011

when i made mine i could have easily interpolated it with the cnc mill. instead, i bolted the top and bottom halves together, found the center and then installed it in my lathe's 4 jaw chuck. i centered it up, drilled and then bored it to final size. i did my rem 700 wrench the same way.

the wrench being made:

wnroscoe · Sep 15, 2011

You could also use a boring head in the Mill.

cockcroft · Sep 15, 2011

I used a boring head in my mill. not the fastest way but it worked. Didnt shim between like I should have so I faced of both sides after boring hole.

kendog · Sep 15, 2011

A boring head in the mill will work fine. It might be advisable to raise the knee for the cut, instead of going down with the quill. I made several Brownells type heads cutting 1/2 a hole to various radii using this method. Scribed the radius on the part, hogged out most of it with a roughing end mill, and bored to finish dimension. No issues.
You are going three inches, so you might have to take it a little slower, but it would still probably work fine. Dont forget to take spring cuts at the end to account for tool deflection.

Neshek · Sep 15, 2011

Kendog, you are right about the 3 inches making my life difficult. I was trying to use the power feed on the spindle. I will try your suggestion on using the knee. I don't have power on it. I was making my experiments using some scrap steel plate that I have found very hard in the past. Maybe my 1018 will behave better than my experiment. You've given me a few things to try.

Thanks,
-Art

Neshek · Sep 15, 2011

300 Sniper, your work always looks great. How do you actually mount this? Do you put it in a machinist vise? How would you clamp it to a table?

Thanks,
-Art

kendog · Sep 15, 2011

Neshek said:
Kendog, you are right about the 3 inches making my life difficult. I was trying to use the power feed on the spindle. I will try your suggestion on using the knee. I don't have power on it. I was making my experiments using some scrap steel plate that I have found very hard in the past. Maybe my 1018 will behave better than my experiment. You've given me a few things to try.

Thanks,
-Art

My knee isn't powered either, except when I grab the handle! Much more rigid feed.
A 3/4 X 8" boring bar in the lathe would work well too. You dont have to get absolute dead-nuts center, its a barrel vise!!

300sniper · Sep 15, 2011

Neshek said:
300 Sniper, your work always looks great. How do you actually mount this? Do you put it in a machinist vise? How would you clamp it to a table?

Thanks,
-Art

the picture posted earlier is the head of the receiver wrench. i didn't have a picture of the vise being machined so i used it as a set-up example.

i machined the bore in the vise the same way. mine is only 2" deep but i see no reason one couldn't use the same method 3". when i made the vise, i was planning on using socket head screws to bolt it to my bench so i counterbored the holes. i never got around to that and just c-clamp to the bench when i need it. one major improvement i made since these pictures was changing from 1/2-20 screws to studs.

BUD · Sep 15, 2011

Neshek

I just got through building a Brownell's barrel vise knock off. I had no problems with chatter while boring the 3" depth in my Bridgeport with my 1/2" boring head. I also used CR1018 and was worried about chatter being a issue but had no problems what so ever.

Give it a shot, if it chatters like crazy then you will have to try something else....

Neshek · Sep 16, 2011

Bud, what was the length of your 1/2 inch diameter boring bar? Did you make your own, use carbide insert or HSS?

Thanks,
-Art

Neshek · Sep 16, 2011

300 Sniper, thanks. Once you said it was the receiver wrench that you showed first it made total sense. I saw that hole on one side and couldn't figure out what you were doing. As always, beautiful work.

-Art

kendog · Sep 16, 2011

Neshek
Here is a link to a cool website that has tons of fundamental information. Lots of tutorials on many machine operations. Check the library too. Lots of good info there.

Link to Virtual Machine Shop Boring on Mill

Neshek · Sep 16, 2011

Kendog, excellent link. It's bookmarked.

Thanks!

willbird · Sep 16, 2011

I'd bore it in the lathe myself. You are only making one, no reason to get in a big hurry.

RDCutter · Sep 17, 2011

I, would second the suggestion to bore it lathe. Too few people, in today's
shops, are learning to use an engine lathe, to it's full potential.
As you have mentioned, this experience will help you to move up the ladder.
A four jaw chuck, and an assortment of indicators, and at least one mag. base, will become your good friends. A length of 1/2" dia. alum. rod, is handy
to level/move parts, w/o marking, and can also be tapped w/ a hammer.
Small pieces of 1/8" thick alum. sheet/plate, between the jaws, and the work, will reduce the chance of marks.
If you would like to see, what an engine lathe is capable of, find a copy of a
machine shop training text from the late 19th, or early 20th centuries. Try to find a copy of "How to run a Lathe", that was published by Southbend Lathe.
Regards,
Bob

BUD · Sep 17, 2011

Neshek, it was just barely long enough at 3.125" and was a brazed carbide boring bar and it worked well. I took .005" cuts, it took a while but I just set my stop on the mill power feed and pulled up a stool. I thought about using my lathe but at almost 20 lbs and not the easiest shape to hold. I thought the mill would be best.

BUD

Johnny V · Sep 17, 2011

Hi Neshek,

I would say there are as many ways to bore the hole as your imagination can muster, with no right or wrong ways, just whatever you're comfortable with. On my setup, I used the Bridgeport with a boring head and ½" shank boring bar.

My setup can be seen here.

Later
Johnny V
NRA Life Member 1976

Neshek · Sep 17, 2011

Thanks everyone, I've decided to go back to the HSS boring bit drawing board. I'm going to perform some experiments on how to grind them. I'm clearly not getting a chip in steel though I was in the aluminum experiment I did.

I appreciate all the suggestions. If I'm not getting anywhere I'll resurrect this thread and show some of my experiments. I think I really need a chip breaker and I also think I'm getting movement of my tool bit in the bar. I'll attack both.

Regards,
-Art

Neshek · Sep 17, 2011

RDCutter, I like your list. I may still do it on the face plate in my lathe. My 4 jaw isn't bit enough to hold the bottom portion of the vise. I'll do my experiments in the lathe. It should be easier to do them there rather than the mill at least.

Thanks,
-Art

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