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How would you repair this scewup...

Educator

Plastic
Joined
May 11, 2005
Location
NE Alabama
I was milling a sight out of a Springfield XD and my cutter walked out of the collet cutting into the slide on they opposite side...I've already bought customer a new gun...I'm looking for ways to repair this to sell and recoup at least part of the expense. IMG_20160714_190724.jpgIMG_20160714_190830.jpg
 
It appears to be Aluminum ? if you have a skilled welder available that may be an option.
But, then strip the anodize, refinish the repaired area ,re-anodize.

Why dont you just replace the slide?
 
Is the XD even anodized? Or is it a spray on coating?

In either case, bead or sand blast off the coating, mill a slot, drive in an aluminum key to fit the slot, put the front sight on it and cerakote it.
 
I Cerakoted an XD once. It's got some sort of nitrided or other super hard coating over, I believe, stainless steel. It took hours of bead-blasting to get it ready for Cerakote. If I ever do another, I'll just rough up the existing coating enough to hold the Cerakote. Keep that in mind if you want it back to original spec.
 
Simply soft solder a close fitting steel plug in the lower cut and then recut the dovetail. The remains of the plug will only show at the end of the dovetail when the sight is in place. If the fit is close, very little of the soft solder will show. Cold blue the bare steel showing. Use soft-solder black if needed ( Brownells) on any solder showing. Done right, the repair will be hard to see.

RWO
 
All you guys that think you can tig weld aluminum and anodize the results are clueless, you will not get a good color match between base metal and weld. Next, when you weld aluminum it goes dead soft, probably not what you want on a gun. How the hell could that tiny end mill walk???? Was it even tight? In a mini mill? Amazing, I have been doing this for over 40 years, 1 or 2 end mills have walked and they were over 1" diameter.
 
It's steel

Simply soft solder a close fitting steel plug in the lower cut and then recut the dovetail. The remains of the plug will only show at the end of the dovetail when the sight is in place. If the fit is close, very little of the soft solder will show. Cold blue the bare steel showing. Use soft-solder black if needed ( Brownells) on any solder showing. Done right, the repair will be hard to see.

RWO
This is probably my most logical and cost saving fix...I even thought about lowering the dovetail and adapt a sight to fit.

How the hell could that tiny end mill walk???? Was it even tight? In a mini mill? Amazing, I have been doing this for over 40 years, 1 or 2 end mills have walked and they were over 1" diameter.
It had to be operator error...It was a 2 flute taper mill and I must not have tightened it well. There is a whole list of things that keep running through my mind wondering what I failed to do.
 
That can happen using collet holders. A small sliver gets between the collet and spindle or collet and endmill. Feels tight but a little vibration can walk them out. Odd though it walked down with that small end mill, usually one that small in a light cut pushes up when it gets into something hard. Did you have the quill locked if your machine has one?

Might be a good idea to get a solid holder or two for work like this. Something like a search for "solid R8 end mill holder" should show some options if you have the R8 style.
 
1/2 inch and 3/8 inch solid holders would probably cover most jobs like this. You could add more as required.

Be sure you still have enough Z travel left with solid holders.
 








 
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