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Lathe for a beginner?

skeeks

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 8, 2016
I am looking at purchasing a lathe. I was wondering what recommendations can be made around the $2k mark. I would like to be able to do simple barrel work on it. Ream, turn, face, thread and produce a very good shooting barrel.
Does one need a super heavy lathe to produce very accurate work?

Thanks in advance for your time!
 
If you were to find an old South Bend 9C in good shape it is a good lathe to learn with. I have had mine for 40 years now. I used to thread barrels on it for a well known gun maker. It is very limited as to barrel size that you can do, you can not take heavy cuts with it, but you would have to try hard to hurt yourself with it. Unless you are doing target barrels it is one that would be good to learn on. A heavy 10 will have a bigger through hole on the spindle but will be harder to find a nearly new one. If you do not want to buy a starter lathe then graduate to a better one, there are many threads on actual gun smithing lathes, you can do some searching to find a better over all lathe.
 
If you are already an accomplished machinist, you can make a good part on a pos lathe . . . but if not already a machinist, buy a higher quality (new china stuff is not) lathe to at least have a chance to learn something on.
 
Thanks guys. I'm brand new to this. I've been reading, watching videos and asking a ton of questions. The barrel will be fore very accurate bolt guns that I shoot in competitions. I have found a couple South Bend 9's. Just trying to figure out what may or may not work, is spending 5k$ necessary to produce a great barrel.
 
The barrel will be for very accurate bolt guns that I shoot in competitions.

Unless you are shooting bench rest, the last .1" or so is not really going to make the difference. Operator training is the key, even in bench rest. Barrel quality comes from the manufacturer. The installer can make it worse but not better. I would suggest you are setting your immediate goal too high; start with a smaller machine and learn the processes on less expensive material than $375 Kreiger blanks. Once you have a handle on the processes, you will also have a better idea of what you want for your next machine. You probably can sell your learner's model for what you paid for it if money is short, or keep it around for small projects.

I have a Logan 14x23 which is a little short for rifle barrels although I do thread and chamber on it. But a 30" plus C-C length would help for tapering and such.
 
I used to have a flat bed 9" Atlas that I bored spindle bore out to fit short barrels through, did alot of 22lr stuff and some ar-15 stuff, really a POS and I'm glad its gone. But you can do decent work with very lite machines if your careful. Bigger is always better, watch auctions for lathes is your best bet.
 
The barrel will be for very accurate bolt guns that I shoot in competitions.

Unless you are shooting bench rest, the last .1" or so is not really going to make the difference. Operator training is the key, even in bench rest. Barrel quality comes from the manufacturer. The installer can make it worse but not better. I would suggest you are setting your immediate goal too high; start with a smaller machine and learn the processes on less expensive material than $375 Kreiger blanks. Once you have a handle on the processes, you will also have a better idea of what you want for your next machine. You probably can sell your learner's model for what you paid for it if money is short, or keep it around for small projects.

I have a Logan 14x23 which is a little short for rifle barrels although I do thread and chamber on it. But a 30" plus C-C length would help for tapering and such.

Thanks for the advice. The type of competitions I shoot we use rifles that close to bench rest accuracy. Precision Rifle Series...
I 100% understand that the quality of the barrel comes from the manufacturer, but you as you said one can easily mess it up.
I've saved all my shot out barrels to practice on when I get a chance.
 
Figure out what you need your lathe to be able to do.
Perhaps visit the smith that has been doing your work and talk to him about his equipment.

Then find a lathe that matches those requirements.

You are not seeking a beginner lathe, you want something that will get the job done.
Buy once, cry once.
 
a 14 X 42 lathe would be a good starting point, shop around
you can get better for the same or less than a grizzly.

get a tapper attachment you won't use it often but when you do it will be worth it.
you need 4 jaw chuck, steady rest and a good tool post, DRO is nice.
don't worry about spending big bucks on a 3 jaw for barrel work you will use
the 4 jaw or do it between centers.
 
I can recommend a late model South Bend Heavy Ten (10L) or a South Bend 13" (both with 1.375" spindle through hole)and taper attachment for profiling. The largest barrel blank I've done was 1.250". You can add a spider to the left side of the spindle for support while working through the spindle. Make sure you get one with quick change gearbox. Changing gears for feed speed, or a finish cut is a PITA! I can also recommend Clausing 4900,5900,6900 series lathes, or a LeBlond. Get a lathe in GOOD condition with tooling, take your gunsmith friend or a machinist with you to try it out before you buy. Pick some brains to find if there is a reputable machinery dealer in your area for a good used lathe....there's a BIG difference in a fleabay "REBUILT" (Steam clean&Paint with new felts) and an actual REBUILT machine from a machinery rebuilder. I don't know the market in OK, but in Pa. you could come up with a nice package for 3-$4K, certainly $5k or less. Good luck. PB
 
Agree talk to a local gun smith. Mine uses an old Logan but I would wonder how often metric threading is
needed. Agree around here about $3500 will get a fair lathe. Checking it out well for defects you can unload it with little loss. But one needing expensive parts or accessories and you may loose dollars and time.
 
Logan is good, because Scott Logan still sells the parts, I learned on my Logan, and parts are not cheap, but he has them, I bought a brank new taper attachement and a brand new steady rest, the prices were not that bad, and to find anything new on a 40 plus year old lathe is always a plus...
 
Agree talk to a local gun smith. Mine uses an old Logan but I would wonder how often metric threading is
needed. Agree around here about $3500 will get a fair lathe. Checking it out well for defects you can unload it with little loss. But one needing expensive parts or accessories and you may loose dollars and time.



I doubt that metric threading will be necessary for what he wants.
 
I am looking at purchasing a lathe. I was wondering what recommendations can be made around the $2k mark. I would like to be able to do simple barrel work on it. Ream, turn, face, thread and produce a very good shooting barrel.
Does one need a super heavy lathe to produce very accurate work?

Thanks in advance for your time!

For a $2K budget, you are looking at Ebay, Kijiji or Craigslist, until you luck in to a decent used lathe for cheap. With any luck, you will get at least a basic set of tools with, stuff like steady and follow rests, a tool post of some sort, and like as not, a few basic tools. Expect it to need a thorough cleaning. Most of the lathes that sell new for your budget, are not nearly large enough to accomplish what you want. Figure maybe triple what you have budgeted, if you want new, maybe more. Potentially, LOTS more.

You can do accurate work on any lathe, once you understand what the lathe needs from the operator to make it happen. Like as not, there will be a pretty solid learning curve to get past.

Lathes are cheaper to tool up than a mill is, and I doubt very much that you wold 'need' a thousand or more dollars in tooling to accomplish what you want. You could spend that and more and still not have what you actually need, so shop wisely.

Got any experience running a lathe? If not, then you are in for an experience! If you manage to stick through the learning curve without tearing your hair out, and giving it all up for a less stressful hobby, you might soon enough figure that your goal of doing barrels will need a few skillsets that don't exactly come from books very well. That is to say, the hands, eyes, and brain of the operator, are where the magic happens.

In that regard, I would suggest that ANY lathe is better than no lathe, and you can learn a lot about cutting metal on a lathe that may not be big enough to do the end goal work. Making some of the toling that you might be inclined to buy, is a good use of your time if you do not already have the lathe skills. Raw stock is cheap, compared to even used barrel blanks. Making stuff like floating reamer holders or a flush through system for chambering, can allow you to learn the skills while still accumulating useful items.

Cheers
Trev
 
Agree talk to a local gun smith. Mine uses an old Logan but I would wonder how often metric threading is
needed. Agree around here about $3500 will get a fair lathe. Checking it out well for defects you can unload it with little loss. But one needing expensive parts or accessories and you may loose dollars and time.

I wish there was reputable smith that lived within 3-4 hours of me. Unfortunately there is not. It really sucks. Thats the route I was originally going to take. I will talk to my guy though and see what he's using. and what he think is a must have and what is not needed.
 
For a $2K budget, you are looking at Ebay, Kijiji or Craigslist, until you luck in to a decent used lathe for cheap. With any luck, you will get at least a basic set of tools with, stuff like steady and follow rests, a tool post of some sort, and like as not, a few basic tools. Expect it to need a thorough cleaning. Most of the lathes that sell new for your budget, are not nearly large enough to accomplish what you want. Figure maybe triple what you have budgeted, if you want new, maybe more. Potentially, LOTS more.

You can do accurate work on any lathe, once you understand what the lathe needs from the operator to make it happen. Like as not, there will be a pretty solid learning curve to get past.

Lathes are cheaper to tool up than a mill is, and I doubt very much that you wold 'need' a thousand or more dollars in tooling to accomplish what you want. You could spend that and more and still not have what you actually need, so shop wisely.

Got any experience running a lathe? If not, then you are in for an experience! If you manage to stick through the learning curve without tearing your hair out, and giving it all up for a less stressful hobby, you might soon enough figure that your goal of doing barrels will need a few skillsets that don't exactly come from books very well. That is to say, the hands, eyes, and brain of the operator, are where the magic happens.

In that regard, I would suggest that ANY lathe is better than no lathe, and you can learn a lot about cutting metal on a lathe that may not be big enough to do the end goal work. Making some of the toling that you might be inclined to buy, is a good use of your time if you do not already have the lathe skills. Raw stock is cheap, compared to even used barrel blanks. Making stuff like floating reamer holders or a flush through system for chambering, can allow you to learn the skills while still accumulating useful items.

Cheers
Trev


Is a steady rest absolutely needed? All my barrels will be between 31" and 20". Most will be finised around the 26-20" mark.
My plan was to use a long stem indicator (like in a thread on the front page of the gunsmithing section) to indicate directly off the lands with the barrel in a 4 chuck or in something with 2 sets of adjustable screws for getting it all indicated correctly.
I have no exerience actually running a lathe. I am a veteran that is finishing up my degree in Geology at the moment and shot when I can as often as I can. I am pretty competitive in what I do and feel I do well with as little as I practice.

I will take everything everyone has commented into consideration. I truly just wasn't sure if a 2k$ lathe would do that job or if I needed to really spend the money. This is will a hobby and nothing more (most likely lol). I will learn and hopefully help out some buddies with similar actions.

Thanks for the advice and keep it coming!
 
Is a steady rest absolutely needed? All my barrels will be between 31" and 20". Most will be finised around the 26-20" mark.
My plan was to use a long stem indicator (like in a thread on the front page of the gunsmithing section) to indicate directly off the lands with the barrel in a 4 chuck or in something with 2 sets of adjustable screws for getting it all indicated correctly.
I have no exerience actually running a lathe. I am a veteran that is finishing up my degree in Geology at the moment and shot when I can as often as I can. I am pretty competitive in what I do and feel I do well with as little as I practice.

I will take everything everyone has commented into consideration. I truly just wasn't sure if a 2k$ lathe would do that job or if I needed to really spend the money. This is will a hobby and nothing more (most likely lol). I will learn and hopefully help out some buddies with similar actions.

Thanks for the advice and keep it coming!

"Need"? Maybe not, at least, until you do.

Steady and follower rests are a royal PITA to source after the fact, and should have been with the lathe pretty much from new. They also allow you to thread and chamber on a lathe with too small a bore to do so inside the spindle. They open up options for how a job can be done, which is better than not having the option!

Cheers
Trev
 
Is a steady rest absolutely needed? All my barrels will be between 31" and 20". Most will be finised around the 26-20" mark.
My plan was to use a long stem indicator (like in a thread on the front page of the gunsmithing section) to indicate directly off the lands with the barrel in a 4 chuck or in something with 2 sets of adjustable screws for getting it all indicated correctly.
I have no exerience actually running a lathe. I am a veteran that is finishing up my degree in Geology at the moment and shot when I can as often as I can. I am pretty competitive in what I do and feel I do well with as little as I practice.

I will take everything everyone has commented into consideration. I truly just wasn't sure if a 2k$ lathe would do that job or if I needed to really spend the money. This is will a hobby and nothing more (most likely lol). I will learn and hopefully help out some buddies with similar actions.

Thanks for the advice and keep it coming!

Ok, there are many BR type gunsmiths in Oklahoma. Go to a shooting forum for advise, Accurate Shooter, Benchrest Central, and many others.
After you learn what you are doing, post a list of your tooling at that time, not now. I've chambered 100s of barrels and have no use for a steady. There is no reason to buy an uncountoured barrel. I have a steady and following rest for both of my lathes and never use them.
What part of Okla. are you from?
 








 
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