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Looking to purchase a lathe

skeeks

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 8, 2016
Hey guys, I am in the market for a new lathe. I am looking for a 13/14x40. At the moment I am considering a PM 1340GT and the 14x40 equivalent from Grizzly. I would also like to keep the actual cost of the lathe itself around 4-6k$. I would like DRO, quick change tool post, ability to run coolant and I am undecided on either a set tru/adjust tru chuck as well as a good 4 jaw chuck. I have tooling for the most part ready to go, just need a couple odds and ends and the lathe itself.

PM1340GT
Grizzly G0709
Grizzly G0776

Any others I should take a look at?
 
Use Google to search this site, your question has been asked hundreds of times.
As for the machines you listed, I'd not pay $500 for all three of them, let alone $5,000 for any one. Just my opinion.
 
It doesn't take a big lathe to do gunsmithing work, in fact one of the problems you could get yourself into is the distance of the headstock can be too long to get a barrel into that's under 24". If your after doing 16" AR barrels, then your working outside the headstock.
Just look at all the dimensions your going to use, not just the length and throw then start looking at how to get the best fitting lathe for your tasks.

Hey guys, I am in the market for a new lathe. I am looking for a 13/14x40. At the moment I am considering a PM 1340GT and the 14x40 equivalent from Grizzly. I would also like to keep the actual cost of the lathe itself around 4-6k$. I would like DRO, quick change tool post, ability to run coolant and I am undecided on either a set tru/adjust tru chuck as well as a good 4 jaw chuck. I have tooling for the most part ready to go, just need a couple odds and ends and the lathe itself.

PM1340GT
Grizzly G0709
Grizzly G0776

Any others I should take a look at?
 
It doesn't take a big lathe to do gunsmithing work, in fact one of the problems you could get yourself into is the distance of the headstock can be too long to get a barrel into that's under 24". If your after doing 16" AR barrels, then your working outside the headstock.
Just look at all the dimensions your going to use, not just the length and throw then start looking at how to get the best fitting lathe for your tasks.

I will be doing almost nothing but precision rifle work - barrels for .223-big bore type stuff, almost all custom actions, few remington 700's, etc. All the lathes I am looking at have short headstocks.

As someone who is self taught and doesn't know much about the machines I am stuck to using the internet so I do not know what is good advice and what is bad advice. I am told American machines are the best, but I can only afford a used machine and do not know enough to fix a broken or machine that may have issues if purchased used. Hence why I am asking here.
I have asked this question in multiple forums and facebook pages and am getting very conflicting answers.
 
Look at Logan, Southbend and Sheldon lathes for used American made. Logan still has some factory support,Southbend seems to be easy to find parts for. Sheldon will be a challenge if you need parts. You should be able to find a decent older lathe that will do what you need for way less money than a new imported machine.
 
I have asked this question in multiple forums and facebook pages and am getting very conflicting answers.

This is not surprising. It is a Ford/Chevy/Toyota/Honda type question and everyone thinks his solution is the best. Most used small American lathes in good condition are better than new bottom-end Chinese machines but they are harder to find and the difference is getting less every year. If you look around, you will find people who have bought Chinese machines who are satisfied with their purchases. You will also find those who have had to unload casting sand from the cavities of their new Chinese machines. And you will find plenty who have never owned a Chinese machine who speak authoritatively on the subject.

If you buy a Chinese machine, it is wise to open the gear boxes on the head stock and the carriage and check for sand and lube. On used machines, check for broken gear teeth. Otherwise, you are making a gamble.

The higher end Japanese machines exceed the quality of old premium American iron but we are talking 5-10 times the cost of the low end equipment.

P.S.--My own machines are used and old American machines, some of which have broken gear teeth. I have used other's Chinese machines but they were of 30 years ago and the new ones are better.
 
Look at Logan, Southbend and Sheldon lathes for used American made. Logan still has some factory support,Southbend seems to be easy to find parts for. Sheldon will be a challenge if you need parts. You should be able to find a decent older lathe that will do what you need for way less money than a new imported machine.

Stay away from the 9" Logans and Southbend light 10s. They just don't have enough iron. I have had to suffer with both. I have never run a 10" Sheldon, but two very good machinists I have known did and liked them. I had a 14 1/2" South Bend for almost 40 years and did good work with it. I now mostly use a Sheldon R15, an excellent lathe but too big for gunsmithing.

Bill
 
Thanks Gents. A couple constants I hear from everyone is stay away from Chinese. Taiwanese is better quality. US made is the best.
I'm thinking the Precision Matthews (Taiwanese). I am interested in the 1340 and 1440. I have heard mostly good things about both machines. I am also interested in purchasing new because, as stated earlier, I do not feel my knowledge of these machines is to a point where I feel comfortable buying a used machine. I feel its less of a gamble to buy a new Taiwanese machine that is for me to purchases a used American made machine.
 
If you don't mind used and slightly ugly, I've got a Modern Turn 1550 I'll probably be selling.

The guys I got it from weren't big on cleaning, so the machine is really dirty and grimy with faded dials, but has a low backlash and good ways.

2"+ spindle bore (don't know exactly), but it's pretty large.
2000 RPM top speed
inch/metric threading
taper attachment
spindle break
cam-lock spindle
spider on the outboard end of the spindle.
weights about 2000lbs
probably 5 hp motor
short head-stock, but don't know the dimension off the top of my head.

The worst thing about it, besides it's looks, is no tooling. If my Sheldon wasn't tooled out, I would keep this machine and sell the Sheldon. But can't afford buying more lathe jewelry and UH needs it's tuition so the Modern Turn has to go.

This machine would be cheaper than any of the ones you posted, and a much better machine. Depending on where you are in OK, I may even be able to deliver it.
 
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The PM1349GT is a decent Taiwanese machine. Thing that surprised me is that it comes with Five Year warranty. Lots of guys use that lathe for gunsmithing. The owner is a fella named "Matt". He's extremely helpful and responsive whenever there's a problem. Call him and see what kind of deal he will make you.

Most if the Grizzly stuff is total junk. Most machines made in the PRC. Crap. You don't want to go there. If you want to buy an Asian lathe, (assuming you don't have the coin for Japanese or Korean) avoid Chi Com and look to Taiwan.

Best idea is to find a solid, older American or European machine. But, alas...the good ones are rare indeed. There are a lot of clapped- out iron taken out of production where they were rode hard and put up wet. Caveat Emptor!

Good luck to ya!

Squire

Sent Using Tapatalk - Cherokee Nation of Oklahoma, Tahlequah OK
 
Best idea is to find a solid, older American or European machine. But, alas...the good ones are rare indeed. There are a lot of clapped- out iron taken out of production where they were rode hard and put up wet.

That's true, there are a lot of really beaten lathes out there, worn to the point of being almost useless. BUT, the OP is looking to spend in the $4,000-$6,000 range, that opens up the possibilities to some really, really, nice machines, in good/great condition.
I'd much rather take my chances on a good used condition machine from a premium maker, than a brand new lower quality machine, any day.
The lower quality machine may do what you want it to out of the box, but as it quickly wears, and as your skills improve, you will reach the point where you wish you had a better machine.
Buy a top quality machine and as you skills improve you will just appreciate it more and more!
 
That's true, there are a lot of really beaten lathes out there, worn to the point of being almost useless. BUT, the OP is looking to spend in the $4,000-$6,000 range, that opens up the possibilities to some really, really, nice machines, in good/great condition.
I'd much rather take my chances on a good used condition machine from a premium maker, than a brand new lower quality machine, any day.
The lower quality machine may do what you want it to out of the box, but as it quickly wears, and as your skills improve, you will reach the point where you wish you had a better machine.
Buy a top quality machine and as you skills improve you will just appreciate it more and more!
Can't really disagree with what you've said. Somehow I missed the fact that OP could swing $6,000.

I've seen a couple of machines lately that would work for that kind of money - a used but very sound Takisawa, and a mil-spec Century that looked like new taken out of naval service.

Course, there are lots of others too. Those just came to mind.

Squire


Sent Using Tapatalk - Cherokee Nation of Oklahoma, Tahlequah OK
 
Looks like the Pm is the better in this Category..

Agree many don't want a lathe project or 6 months of looking for a part.. but on the area of $6k there are some nicw machines out there.

Harrison M25 11"x3" Engine Lathe, Loaded, From Technical School Clausing | eBay
Clausing Lathe 15 x 48
Kent Gap Engine Lathe
Clausing 69 Series Tool Room Lathe Loaded with Tooling in Excellent Condition! | eBay
Kent Gap Engine Lathe
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARRISON-Mo...635229?hash=item3d0ac4329d:g:PEYAAOSwAKxWYGa0

Agree don't know about the kent
 
Looks like the Pm is the better in this Category..

Agree many don't want a lathe project or 6 months of looking for a part.. but on the area of $6k there are some nicw machines out there.

Harrison M25 11"x3" Engine Lathe, Loaded, From Technical School Clausing | eBay
Clausing Lathe 15 x 48
Kent Gap Engine Lathe
Clausing 69 Series Tool Room Lathe Loaded with Tooling in Excellent Condition! | eBay
Kent Gap Engine Lathe
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARRISON-Mo...635229?hash=item3d0ac4329d:g:PEYAAOSwAKxWYGa0

Agree don't know about the kent
Yeah Buck, thr PM is pretty good. I gotta say tho, that Harrison 1130 is sweet. Very clean, short thru the headstock. Aloris BXA. The spindle bore is a little on the smallish side, but workable for lots of stuff.

Looks like a good'un. Harrison are solid.

Squire

Sent Using Tapatalk - Cherokee Nation of Oklahoma, Tahlequah OK
 
In that mix likely the Clausing 1548.. I Know that shop and likely it is near mint..
Oh its missing a tail.. but turret slid should be an OK tail.

They are all in a step up from the PM..
But yes the PM may be fine for what need the Op has. Harden gears makes the PM better than many better grade hobby lathes.

Quality of the chuck means much.. whos chuck does the PM use or do they make their own?


Youtubes on the PM
PM1236 stand and toolbox stuff day 1 part 4 - YouTube
 
First Harrison M250 is small / light.
Harrison 300, Kent, looked really nice.

13x40" - 2500 lbs - nice.
On the other, 2500 rpm/7.5 hp, VFD, nice.
* Heavier, more RPM, more HP, in this order. *
Anything else is cheap to swap.

BUT...
Anything new from china or anywhere, oem, for 5-6k, is really good.
Ie not Grizzly/middleman/badge-engineered.

Thus any PM-offers or similar, will be really good, new.
Buy by mass, speed, power, imho.
But "new" also has high value.
My import lathe was excellent, but very heavy, very rigid, for its size, in the 12x heavy light-industrial-types.
With poor fit&finish, but 10x the lathe compared to the Logan/Grizzly light-weight offerings.

My POV:
I would buy a new import, heaviest I could find, with a VFD included.
Because they are cheap, have great rigidity, and a VFD gives you lots of torque/range/flexibility cheap.
And the new machines have great TIR.

And with a new = already programmed VFD, and as-new comes with a guarantee against electronics failures short-term and motor failures and guarantees against lack of accuracy/TIR etc.
With good TIR, good rpm/VFD/power, mass=rigidity, YOU can make anything, 100% certain.
And any parts lack/loss/failure is easily fixed, cheap.
And new comes with 3-jaw, 4-jaw, both steadies, etc. mostly, worth 2-3k$ easily.

I do not disagree with "old iron" posts as such .. at all.
And many skilled experienced people here can deliver 2-3x the value, sometimes, when they find / recover an old machine of great value.

So as a business decision, I myself would never buy "old iron" for immediate profitable or productive use.
Otoh...
As a sideline for experienced guys, they sometimes can and do gain very valuable top-shelf machines, with low initial cash outlay.
But they spend a lot of time at it, a lot of opportunity costs, a lot of hours.
If You or I needed to pay for their time, it would not be worth it.


Looks like the Pm is the better in this Category..
Agree many don't want a lathe project or 6 months of looking for a part.. but on the area of $6k there are some nicw machines out there.

Harrison M25 11"x3" Engine Lathe, Loaded, From Technical School Clausing | eBay
Clausing Lathe 15 x 48
Kent Gap Engine Lathe
Clausing 69 Series Tool Room Lathe Loaded with Tooling in Excellent Condition! | eBay
Kent Gap Engine Lathe
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARRISON-Mo...635229?hash=item3d0ac4329d:g:PEYAAOSwAKxWYGa0

Agree don't know about the kent
 








 
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