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Machining magazine well.

2 clicks low

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Location
Roca Nebraska
I have been thinking about machine a steel/aluminum stock for a Mosin Nagant rifle. I would like to use Archangel magazines. How would you cut the mag well on manual equipment? I have a lathe, mill , and shaper. thanks
 
I have been thinking about machine a steel/aluminum stock for a Mosin Nagant rifle. I would like to use Archangel magazines. How would you cut the mag well on manual equipment? I have a lathe, mill , and shaper. thanks
Just curiois, but why do you want to make a steel stock for a Mosin Nagant?

To your question, you will need to use your mill. Just choose an appropriate cutting tool, set up your stock to cut the mag well and let er rip! East beans I would think.

Cheers,

Squier

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk
 
Just curiois, but why do you want to make a steel stock for a Mosin Nagant?

To your question, you will need to use your mill. Just choose an appropriate cutting tool, set up your stock to cut the mag well and let er rip! East beans I would think.

Cheers,

Squier

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk
Make that "easy beans". Dammed typos!

Squier

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk
 
I am looking at the radius of 8.85" and about 3.5" deep well distances. So i will have to machine the radius from the top down into the well not from the side. You can call the Mosin receiver the upper and make a lower from steel. Part of the choose of steel is the lower will form the barrel block (and hand guard attach point) between barrel and the mosin receiver. I do not trust aluminum to keep the correct head spacing.
 
I am looking at the radius of 8.85" and about 3.5" deep well distances. So i will have to machine the radius from the top down into the well not from the side. You can call the Mosin receiver the upper and make a lower from steel. Part of the choose of steel is the lower will form the barrel block (and hand guard attach point) between barrel and the mosin receiver. I do not trust aluminum to keep the correct head spacing.
Archangel makes a drop-in, carbon fibre stock for your rifle. Seems like this would be a much better option for you than fooling around with a steel stock. If you can manage it, it's gonna weigh a ton and be a big pain in the ass to carry around. Just sayin....

Cheers,

Squire

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk
 
The question is how do you cut a radius from the top down. Just the lower will be steel, The butt stock and hand guard will be aluminum. It is something I want to make.
 
I have no experience with Mosins. What is the 8.85" radius on? Seems kind of large. Is that the bottom of the receiver? .885", maybe?
 
The magazine is curved (8.85") this because the 7.62x54r cartridge is rimmed.The curves are on the front and backside of the well. A picture is worth a thousand words. Google Archangel mosin stock and the Archangel mosin magazine you will find a picture. I just want to copy that mag well. Looking at it I basically I need to put two radius in a hole 3.5" deep. I have a nice receiver and a one inch dia chrome lined heavy barrel. I would like to use detectable mags. Archangel magazine are cheap and available. I don't want what everyone else has I want something nicer that I made. Hopefully the end product should look similar Sako M10 that is the goal.
 
I haven't held an Nagant/Archangel stock in my hands but it looks like you could get away with just cutting a straight mag well a little over sized and then just radius the inner leading edge of the mag well. I think you'd want a little extra wiggle room in order to be able to latch/unlatch the mag.

FWIW

-Ron
 
A poor man's tracer would involve setting an indicator on the curve you want to copy then holding zero on the indicator as you manipulate the x an y handles. I have done this cutting pipe threads and it works amazingly well.
 
Here's an aluminum Mosin stock I made last year using the original mag. It's inset into the aluminum from the bottom:

DSCF7392_zpsyuwrmqzu.jpg


DSCF7152_zps391daiyf.jpg


Because you're asking about archangel mags (which will require more work) I'll show how I cut the mag well on my Savage model 10 this year. If you look at the image of the archangel mag you'll notice that the curve doesn't start until after the latch, you can mill straight down from the top.

For reference:

20160909_122320_zpsamlnuurs.jpg


I use a 16" subplate on my 9" Troyke rotary table for holding the block. Depending on how tall you make the receiver you sometimes need to work it from both top and bottom. Rotab makes cutting the angular sides for the mag a breeze.

20160717_202651_zpsqc5wppnk.jpg


There are build threads on both rifles on other sites that get into the details.

I think you're biting off more than you can chew even considering steel as a viable material for your rifle. Aluminum works just fine, that's why it's used for inserts in most good stocks. Personally I would be looking for a different magazine to use instead of the Archangel.

AAmag_zpsgqnaob2c.jpg


You can also google "ArchAngel Mag Adapter for the Mosin Nagant" and see what you can incorporate into your stock design.
 
Last edited:
Forgot to mention that with the Archangel mag (shown) all you need to "fit" inside the stock is above the horizontal red line in the pic. Everything below it can be cut for clearance if needed.
 
The front radius will be smaller than the rear radius, no?
I would trig out a number of points for both the front and the rear.
Then plunge the rear radius from the top and the front radius from the bottom.
Either set the points to be points of contact (could be jumpy putting the mag in)
or
set the points to be on the finished surface and blend with riffler files or die grinder.
Regards, Ray
 
2 clicks low: you said that you don't trust aluminum to keep the correct head spacing. Do you know what head spacing means? It has nothing to do with the stock, lower, magazine, etc. Correct head spacing is when the dimensions of the barrels chamber and the bolt face match up to the standardized dimensions of the firearms cartridge. Excessive head space can cause case stretching upon firing, and can ultimately lead to a dangerous case head separation.
Also, it is almost always better to have a free floated barrel on a bolt action than to have a mechanical attachment that binds the stock, barrel & receiver together. You do not need a "barrel block", just have your hand guard attach to the stock, and it doesn't need to touch the barrel.
 








 
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