making a knife

upfberg · Apr 13, 2018

Ok here's what i have going on. I have the luxury of teaching a metallurgy class at the local college. I'm not a metallurgist. We were talking in class and my two students want to do something hands on. I would like some help and thoughts on the material to make a knife blade. with this I would like to roughout the shape for them and then heat treat it. then temper the blade. nothing fancy just to show the process. we will be using a torch to heat the material. ( I really want to be able to order material through master carr ) thanks Brian

gwelo62 · Apr 13, 2018

Use a file. Anneal it by heating it red hot and cooling slowly in lime or cement a couple of times.Shape it with a grinder, files and/or belt sander. Reheat and plunge vertically into an oil-bath(reduces) warping.
Old farriers rasps are popular because they are wider and thinner than a normal file. Some people leave the teeth on as a feature. Look up farriers rasps as knives on google.

Milland · Apr 13, 2018

I'm not making any judgements on the issue of "Nanny States", but before you chose a knife as a school project you may want to get approval from supervisors first. And get it in writing, as somebody above them may flip out if the word gets around.

Another tool, such as a custom wrench or pin punch set may give the same exposure to materials choice and heat treating without the "trigger"* aspect.

*Sorry

plastikdreams · Apr 13, 2018

S30v or nothing...

ferretlegger · Apr 13, 2018

Check out the alec steele youtube videos. Your students may like them. The steel he uses (being in the UK and not having access to 1080 very easily) is 1055 I think. Moderately high carbon content. For a beginning knife I bet that would work well. Mcmaster stocks 1045 steel, which might work well enough. Perhaps some knifemakers can chime in.

Regards,
Michael

Steven-Canada · Apr 13, 2018

Milland said:
I'm not making any judgements on the issue of "Nanny States", but before you chose a knife as a school project you may want to get approval from supervisors first. And get it in writing, as somebody above them may flip out if the word gets around.

Another tool, such as a custom wrench or pin punch set may give the same exposure to materials choice and heat treating without the "trigger"* aspect.

*Sorry

Or screwdriver.

Steven-Canada · Apr 13, 2018

If you want to eyeball temps, try an Eutectoid steel like 1084 and make that part of the lesson.

1080, 1084 80crv2,

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...-you-want-in-one-place.1052730/#post-12016587

Keep it thin like 1/8"

Make them do sketches, then cardboard cutouts, then wooden paint stick templates first.

It's a great lesson in filing, safe edge files, hand sanding with strip abrasives.

JLarsson · Apr 13, 2018

Steven-Canada said:
Or screwdriver.

What do vodka and orange juice have to do with metallurgy??? :crazy:

DDoug · Apr 13, 2018

upfberg said:
I have the luxury of teaching a metallurgy class at the local college.

I'm not a metallurgist.

WOW !

Who's the brain dead admin at this "college" ?

Your tax dollars at work.....

GGaskill · Apr 14, 2018

Assuming the admin approves your plan, I would suggest using 440C stainless steel. McMaster-Carr lists it here; click on the "440C Stainless Steel Bars" option. I think the 3/16 X 1 1/2 would be good since you don't want to have them filing so long they lose interest. You should wrap them in stainless steel foil when heat treating unless you have an inert atmosphere.

tROBh · Apr 20, 2018

circular saw will make a good knife and a bit of blade should be easy to come by the steel used in them will rspond to heat treating nicely is easy to work as you get it and doesn't need a lot of filing only drawback is it will rust if not looked after Rob

Screwmachine · Apr 20, 2018

Good grief how has O1 not been mentioned? It doesn't get much simpler or forgiving than that for heat treatment, easy to work, it's a good knife material, and it's very readily available.

mhajicek · Apr 20, 2018

My first heat treated knives were O-1. Dead simple and easy, as Screwmachine said.

rons · Apr 20, 2018

Need nothing else but this:

Knifemaking Book - Learn About David Boye's Book And Order A Copy Today | Boye Knives

lr harner · Apr 21, 2018

i have to 2nd the 1080 1084 steels if all your goingto use is a torch thats the way to go. O1 really needs a soak at temp to be done right (it will get hard but not at its best) as for the S30v any higher alloy or stainlesss grade is going to need a kiln SS foil (or inert gas purge kiln ) at the least dry ice but much better to use liquid nitrogen. good known steel is easy and cheap and you can narrow the heat treatment.

Steven-Canada · Apr 21, 2018

tROBh said:
circular saw will make a good knife and a bit of blade should be easy to come by the steel used in them will respond to heat treating nicely is easy to work as you get it and doesn't need a lot of filing only drawback is it will rust if not looked after Rob

Modern circular saw blades are some stainless with brazed on carbides.

If you're teaching metallurgy, why not teach them to know the properties of known steel chosen for the task.

Steven-Canada · Apr 21, 2018

lr harner said:
i have to 2nd the 1080 1084 steels if all your goingto use is a torch thats the way to go. O1 really needs a soak at temp to be done right (it will get hard but not at its best) as for the S30v any higher alloy or stainlesss grade is going to need a kiln SS foil (or inert gas purge kiln ) at the least dry ice but much better to use liquid nitrogen. good known steel is easy and cheap and you can narrow the heat treatment.

Thanks Butch

lr harner · Apr 23, 2018

been a knife maker the last 15 years have my own HT setup and a full cold shop (i dont forge cause most the time its just not worth it)PM me if you want my number to talk (i suck at writing )

Gene Martin · May 28, 2018

I've been a maker for 28 years. A couple of suggestions for you. Avoid any of the air or deep hardening steels. First first time projects 1080 or 5160 work well. They are fairly forgiving and not real tempermental. Always use a known steel, not "I think this is..." as that is often wrong. L6 is a great example of that. The steel vendors usually have heat treat info available with the steel. Admiral Steel is pretty reliable and has a lot of info available, as well as an online knife steel store. Proper heat treating is the real soul of a knife so do it absolutely by tthe numbers. And don't overheat the point. They have a tendency to break off when that happens.
Best of luck with the project.

mhajicek · May 29, 2018

I've designed a blade for Knife or Death. Plan to make a first draft from 5160.

making a knife

Plastic

Cast Iron

Diamond

Diamond

Aluminum

Hot Rolled

Hot Rolled

Cast Iron

Diamond

Titanium

Plastic

Titanium

Diamond

Diamond

Aluminum

Hot Rolled

Hot Rolled

Aluminum

Plastic

Diamond

Similar threads