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Precision Threading on Muzzle Brakes

Fiddler2068

Plastic
Joined
Nov 15, 2014
Location
Revere, MA
Hi guys,

I am totally new to machine tools. I was wondering if someone can point me toward how muzzle brake threads are machined so that the top, which has ports on it, always ends up on top when screwed onto the barrel?

Book or video is fine. I'm not trying to get someone to give me details on how to perform such a operation. I am designing a muzzle brake and was wondering how that was done or whom I should talk to to get that done properly.

Thanks

Fiddler
 
Thread it like normal and keep cutting away the shoulder until the brake clocks in the right orientation.

Please add a location to you profile per forum rules.
 
Wouldn't different rifles have different orientation where the thread ends? How do they sell brakes without customization of each brake or rifle so the brake would sit right?
 
Wouldn't different rifles have different orientation where the thread ends? How do they sell brakes without customization of each brake or rifle so the brake would sit right?

Do you think each barrel installed on the same model of firearm has the same "clocking" of the thread? I assure they do not.

Typically a washer is used to take up any distance between the muzzle device and the should er behind the thread. Look up "crush washers" and "peel washers"
 
Cut the threads as normal. Test the muzzle device while the barrel is still set up in the lathe. Determine how many degrees it needs to turn in order to time correctly. With a bit of simple math, calculate how much the shoulder needs to be set back to allow the device to time correctly.
 
No, that's what I couldn't figure out. So the answer is just a crush washer. That's great. So the maker for the muzzle brake or any threaded item that needs to be in a certain orientation can then just manufacture and the end user just uses a crush or peel washer and tighten to proper orientation. Got it.

Thanks! I am relieved. Came up with a design for a muzzle brake then got to thinking about how to make them and couldn't figure out how they do it. I don't have a custom brake on any of my rifles so didn't know how they did it and didn't know who to ask. I knew someone on here knew though!
 
all threaded muzzle breaks have to be fitted in the way 300sniper describe, cut the thread into the muzzle break and barrel then fit it and work out how much further the shoulder needs to be cut. using spacers will work for home fitment but its unlikely that you will get it orientated 100% correctly and even if you do its going to look pretty poor unless you design the muzzle break in such a way that it hides the spacers.
 
Fit the muzzle break and measure the offset.

lets say its 30 degrees from horizontal, and your thread pitch is 1mm

heres the maths, P=Pitch F=Offset

(P/360)F

in this case (1/360)30 = 0.0833mm

Cut the shoulder back by 0.0833mm and the muzzle break will be true.
 
Now, washers are fine and dandy for a device that's only acting as a brake or flash hider. If that brake or FH is also a mount for a suppressor, you need to fit that thing to the barrel. Some come with washer shims if you cannot do so, but if I'm spending $800-$1,500 on a suppressor and mount, what's another $30-$100 to have a gunsmith turn the shoulder of your barrel to match the muzzle device properly?. Not it won't be immediately transferable to another gun but so what?

Also, don't ever use a crush washer on a suppressor mount. I do not trust that they will maintain a coaxial orientation with the barrel.
 
Remember that the barrel threads need to be cut coaxial to the bore to avoid baffle strikes. We use a pair of indicators and a range rod to dial in the muzzle. This is the same as dialing to chamber, but more critical as there is no pilot bearing or floating reamer holder to correct for any errors.
 
If the barrel tenon or brake are machined on a cnc machine, the thread clocking will be identical. If production is high enough it would be practical to take advantage of this.
 








 
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