Recommend a lathe to do own's barrel turning and general gunsmithing work?

Djstorm100 · Aug 3, 2015

I'm taking some classes at local community college as a refreasher and to learn something new. In a few months I'll be in the market for a lathe to do my own threading and chambering. I don't have 10k to spend on a machine. I've seen that this machine has gotten great review.

PM1340GT Gunsmith's High Precision Metal Lathe

It is Taiwan machine but alot better than Grizzly. I personally don't know what to really look for when lookin at use lathe

Djstorm100 · Aug 3, 2015

thermite said:
Not the first.

Just hang onto yer money and do more research until you DO know. It's a free education with no single 'right answer' anyway.

You'll want a mill as well if you are at all serious. More reading yet, for that. Also free.

In both cases, used that WAS good and needs fixed-up may be all the budget can stand or can be found.

No fear. That's what is most in-use anyway. Still beats stuff that was NEVER much good, even brand-new.

Bill

Bill, Thanks for the info. I've been getting on here once in a while due to time to try and absorb as much as I can. I'm a visual person and really need to have a someone experience to show "this good...this is bad". You know a picture is worth 1.000 words.

MaxPrairie · Aug 3, 2015

What Bill said hang onto your money until you know what you want. Our local community college rents out shop time for guys that don't have some of the equipment they need. Some guys will just rent out shop time until they have the cash to purchase their own machines and shop.

Butch Lambert · Aug 3, 2015

Djstorm100 said:
I'm taking some classes at local community college as a refreasher and to learn something new. In a few months I'll be in the market for a lathe to do my own threading and chambering. I don't have 10k to spend on a machine. I've seen that this machine has gotten great review.

PM1340GT Gunsmith's High Precision Metal Lathe

It is Taiwan machine but alot better than Grizzly. I personally don't know what to really look for when lookin at use lathe

Are you sure Grizzly doesn't have a machine that is better than the PM? Machines that I like for home(inexpensive) barrel work includes Rockwell, heavy 10, and certain Clausings. I use a 6913 Clausing which is a 14X48. I would buy as much as your budget will allow.
You can do an excellent chambering job on a lathe with worn out ways. Don't want one like that, but it can chamber a great great, true chamber.

300sniper · Aug 3, 2015

thermite said:
Also everyone 'wants' a short headstock, large bore, and long bed. Most folks have had to settle for a 'long ENOUGH' bed and just work around shortcomings in the other two.

BFD. 'Smith knows his stuff, the weapons and the targets they produce still look good.

Best machine in the world can't help if he doesn't.

Bill

I'm using an 11" x 15" lathe and the spindle is almost 3 feet long. I'm pretty satisfied with my results.

I absolutely agree with the smith needing to know what he is doing, and more importantly, why he is doing it that way. I won't even recommend a lathe anymore because there are so many ways to do things that there is no right answer. Sure, you can take the easy way and pick a lathe because someone on the internets or classroom told you that's the one to have. You can chamber a barrel the way the internets told you that you have to. It will work and it has been proven. I'd rather someone used their own critical thinking and figured out their own methods. Armed with this information, they can make their own decision on what features they need in a lathe and then look at what fits those needs.

And for the record, I started out the way the internets told me to but I didn't stop there. I wasn't satisfied with it and felt there was a better way. I have picked the brains of very talented people and used some of their ideas, ignored some of their ideas, modified their ideas and come up with my own ideas.

rob daniel · Aug 3, 2015

The Grizzly lathes have sort of a cult following among non machinists. I would not buy a chinese lathe but that is not to say you could not chamber well with one. I used to chamber benchrest barrels for my father and myself when we both shot competitively. In my experience you can chamber barrels with almost any lathe that has the proper size for your job.

Andy221 · Aug 3, 2015

One thing to keep in mind is the tailstock quill travel. My SB heavy 10 had about 2.5 inches of useful travel. Loosen tailstock, slide back clean chips, push forward, tighten, ream, turn handle back, loosen, slide back... Over and over and over. I have 6" on mine but, think 4" might be my minimum.

Also get as heavy of duty as possible, that's my opinion anyways. I have a Lodge and Shipley but, i think a Leblond regal, clausing, or a takisawa/Webb would be great if you are trying to make money. Many others in that category too. Not that the South Bend heavy 10 or the like won't do the job just fine I just like heavier duty Lathes. I've been down this road and this is what I have learned.

sticks · Aug 3, 2015

Leave 'gunsmithing' out of it and the answer would be the same. You do well for your $$ or you don't.

If buying an Asian import you might gain a lot of experience getting it to work right. (Adjust gibs, true chuck, make HS spider & cat-head, etc)

'Gunsmithing Lathe' adds some bling to your grille, but you have what you have. btw, Don't just read for hours. Days, weeks, months if you have the time, and while saving up for tooling.

billzweig · Aug 3, 2015

I have seen a few Asian import machines and I am not impressed. I think that a good used lathe is a much better tool and a better investment. However one needs to perform a few simple tests to see if the machine is in a decent shape. Many I have seen were very good. For work on mostly small parts, as in gunsmithing, a lathe of about 5"-6" centre hight and 28"-30" between centres will be completely adequate. A large spindle bore - maybe about 1.5" - is always desirable, but a smaller bore in otherwise nice machine is OK.
There are many good machines in this category in the $5K price range.
By the way I do not see the advertised "Very Short Headstock" as an asset.

Street · Aug 3, 2015

You can look at the TAKANG its a taiwanese lathe.
Takang USA Inc

the best way to see if a lathe is good or not is to use it, do a few machining operations, long shafts, high speed, light cuts,heavy cuts.
Measure the sizes, check for taper, vibration etc all the things you can't see by looking.
i used lathes that look ok but they don't perform well under use, that particular problem was vibration and ability to get a good surface finish.
do a lot of looking, using them before you buy one is all i can add

ditchdigger · Aug 4, 2015

Everyone wants to "chamber their own barrels"! Why not make a rifle stock, instead. You'll come nowhere near spending that $10,000 on a nice set off carving chisels and gouges, a couple of stones to sharpen them on, an assortment of files (double cut) & a #49 'Pattern Maker', and some layout tools (4"-6" square, 36" straight edge, 6" scale and a couple of "veri-thin" silver pencils). A drill press is nice to have, but not required, a hand drill motor will work. Neither is a band saw required, nothing that can't be done with a coping saw & carpenters saw. I take my blank(s) to the local cabinet shop (where the make custom kitchen cabinets and occasionally other mill work) and have him square the top of the blank to the off-cheek piece side, so I have a "true" surface to measure from. He'll do it for free, but I hand him 20 bucks, anyway,,, I know I'll want to be welcome to come back.. You'll spend nowhere near $10,000 on that!

hanermo · Aug 4, 2015

Its likely an excellent option- no personal experience.
At 1310 lbs = 590 kg, for a 40", it could be heavier, though.

I have a similar-type 12x24, at 350 kg, which is excellent in TIR and rigidity.
Its relatively 50% more rigid than the 13x40 linked to.

Those who buy new, bigger and heavier, lathes in the 12" and up size are usually very pleased.
And PM has a good rep, and guarantees ! 2.5 micron TIR. +/-.
About what I have in TIR.

Djstorm100 said:
PM1340GT Gunsmith's High Precision Metal Lathe

It is Taiwan machine but alot better than Grizzly. I personally don't know what to really look for when lookin at use lathe

Butch Lambert · Aug 4, 2015

I think this thread has strayed from the OP's question. I am not a Grizzly person, but they have Tiawanese lathes and now own South Bend. I've asked this before, how does worn out ways hurt a lathe's ability to do a great chambering job? As I said, I do not have or want one with worn out ways and my 10EE and Clausing have almost perfect ways. What do ways have to do with chambering?

vintovka · Aug 4, 2015

Had many lathes over the decades and offer the following ramble: I currently have an enco 13/40 that performs perfectly for all my needs. I think its the same machine as shown above with just a different paint job. The headstock hole is great for barrel work and probably have several thousand hours on it. Adding a qc piston type tool holder speeds everything up considerably. Adding a spyder and extra long tailstock levers (slip on pipe extensions due to arthritis) help as well. I will say the Chinese motors are a very weak spot and mine came with a nice Dayton which runs and sounds like a dream. I do see the prices have doubled in last ten years but what hasn't. Prior to this one i tried a 12/36 Harbor Fright special (Taiwanese) which i soon sold thereafter. It was rough, chambered poorly and came with solidly rusted chucks right out of the crate. Every used American lathe (except my m-6) has had wear problems to the point that they were cost ineffective to repair or parts were no longer available.

75sv1 · Aug 4, 2015

ditchdigger said:
Everyone wants to "chamber their own barrels"! Why not make a rifle stock, instead. You'll come nowhere near spending that $10,000 on a nice set off carving chisels and gouges, a couple of stones to sharpen them on, an assortment of files (double cut) & a #49 'Pattern Maker', and some layout tools (4"-6" square, 36" straight edge, 6" scale and a couple of "veri-thin" silver pencils). A drill press is nice to have, but not required, a hand drill motor will work. Neither is a band saw required, nothing that can't be done with a coping saw & carpenters saw. I take my blank(s) to the local cabinet shop (where the make custom kitchen cabinets and occasionally other mill work) and have him square the top of the blank to the off-cheek piece side, so I have a "true" surface to measure from. He'll do it for free, but I hand him 20 bucks, anyway,,, I know I'll want to be welcome to come back.. You'll spend nowhere near $10,000 on that!

That is unless they want a stock duplicator $$$.
As for lathes, there are some imports that are good, or at least look good. Can't comment on the OP's pick. I haven't used one. Some look good, but internals can be a problem. Even heard that on some US or other lathes.

300sniper · Aug 4, 2015

ditchdigger said:
Everyone wants to "chamber their own barrels"! Why not make a rifle stock, instead. You'll come nowhere near spending that $10,000 on a nice set off carving chisels and gouges, a couple of stones to sharpen them on, an assortment of files (double cut) & a #49 'Pattern Maker', and some layout tools (4"-6" square, 36" straight edge, 6" scale and a couple of "veri-thin" silver pencils). A drill press is nice to have, but not required, a hand drill motor will work. Neither is a band saw required, nothing that can't be done with a coping saw & carpenters saw. I take my blank(s) to the local cabinet shop (where the make custom kitchen cabinets and occasionally other mill work) and have him square the top of the blank to the off-cheek piece side, so I have a "true" surface to measure from. He'll do it for free, but I hand him 20 bucks, anyway,,, I know I'll want to be welcome to come back.. You'll spend nowhere near $10,000 on that!

Anyone with knowledge can chamber a barrel. It takes skill to hand carve a stock!

Djstorm100 · Aug 4, 2015

300sniper said:
Anyone with knowledge can chamber a barrel. It takes skill to hand carve a stock!

Yup, my father is the woodworker..I'm the mechanic

ditchdigger · Aug 4, 2015

If you're working for yourself, you'd not need a duplicator. If you think you've just got to have one, Les Brooks has plans. Making a stock from a blank 'll 'exercise' your brain a lot more than chambering will, unless that 'exercises' your brain.

Djstorm100 · Aug 4, 2015

ditchdigger said:
If you're working for yourself, you'd not need a duplicator. If you think you've just got to have one, Les Brooks has plans. Making a stock from a blank 'll 'exercise' your brain a lot more than chambering will, unless that 'exercises' your brain.

If I run a stock I run manners with or with out mini chassis. I just prefer to work with metal. Although I should give it stock making a try.

ditchdigger · Aug 4, 2015

If you use a 'pusher', the condition of the ways is pretty much irrelevent. If you plan on holding the reamer in the tail stock or on the tool post, as some have suggested, good ways become a necessity. For the record, I make a fair chunk of change working metal, machining it, welding it, forming it, coloring it. I've lost count of how many barrels I've chambered. Just took 3 more to do into the shop today. I,also, get to make some 'extra' by making a stock, every once in awhile. No need to limit ones self with only one material. When I am making a stock, for someone other than myself, I do use a pre-inlet (machined by a ACGG memeber). Why fool with the likes of Richards Micro Junk or some of the other commercial outfits when you can get your blank 'turned' by an expert. 42 years as a 'job shop' machinist, '93 grad from MCC gunsmithing program

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