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removing rust from rifle

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Plastic
Joined
May 22, 2018
Hello,

I have a Winchester 94AE rifle purchased new sometime just after 92. It's only been shot a few dozen times.

However while placed into storage for quite a long time it accumulated rust due to partially due to being improperly stored and storage facility in an area cold and warm weather with high humidity 80+ percent.

Not certain the exact reason. I'm told some of the gun cases they sell, guns have been known to rust inside them when stored for prolong amount of time due to condensation from metal going between warm to very cold in climates with higher humidity.

What ever the reason the rifle's barrel rusted up with a few small rust spots on the receiver. Other than the rusted barrel the rifle still functions as when it was new.

It was recommended that I removed the barrel and bead blast. However others recommended not to use an abrasive and that rust be converted acetic acid such as vinegar.

A DE-rusting solution such as vinegar may require the barrel be soaked from ~12 to ~24 hours and then neutralized using backing soda and water.

I'm not certain as there's various types of products on the market that are suppose to remove rust when following their instructions.

e.g. Eastwood Rust Converter - Metal Rescue - Evapo-Rust - Permatex - Corroseal 82331 - Skyco Ospho Surface Prep - TotalBoat Rust Primer - Kurust - Aquasteel - Rust Encapsulator - Naval Jelly - Muriatic Acid and many others

If bead blasting I would need to go out and purchase a sand blaster, tank and compressor.

I'm trying to get some more opinions on removing the rust, mainly from the barrel. Once the rust is removed recommendations of some sort of finish coating, such as a bluing.

Other recommendations for finishes: Brownells Aluma Hyde II Cerakote, DuraCoat and KG Gunkote.

Also chroming such as: Hard Chrome Plating & Electroless Nickel Plating, Armalloy by Mahovsky's Metalife

A few pics of the primary rust:

DSC_9783.jpg

DSC_9789.jpg

DSC_9886.jpg
 
One thing you should remember is that "bluing" is a form of iron oxide and it will be removed along with the red rust if you use most of those products. The advantage of bead blasting is it will get rid of the rust and provide a good surface for rebluing and the matte finish will help to hide the rust pitting.

You will have to take the rifle apart but I don't think taking the barrel off is necessary. But maybe the better solution is to pay a professional to do it since you would have to buy a whole lot of stuff to do the whole job yourself.
 
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Try rubbing down with 0000 steel wool and motor oil. The 0000 steel wool will not harm the blueing but will remove the rust. Some of your 94 may be too far gone for this to work well but it is worth a try.
 
The only way to salvage that gun, assuming that you want it to look original, is to send it to a bluing shop that is equipped to polish and hot blue the metal. Fords, APWCogan, etc. are a couple that can do it. There are others. It will cost 300 or $400 because of the labor required.

RWO
 
I've used these and liberal amounts of Breakfree CLP for years to remove rust:

Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner | Remove Rust from Gun Bluing and Clean Dirty Gun Bores Easy!

The results can be amazing. I cleaned up a pistol for a friend that had to be "peeled" out of a gun rug and it made a huge difference.

In your case I believe there's going to be pitting under the rust in most places but at least you'll know where you're at with the rust gone.

If you're lucky you might find the barrel/receiver aren't too bad and possibly you'll just have to replace the magazine tube with one from Numrich or somewhere. Good luck.
 
I'll add one more thing I learned the hard way. Don't use a rag or towel or etc and oil to rub off the rust. The rag or whatever picks up the rust particles and turns the rag into low grade sandpaper. You won't notice while smearing the rust around that it's taking off the blue also until it's too late. Trust me.
 
It won't do any good to repair the rust damage if you intend to keep the rifle in a gun case. Gun cases are made to transport guns, not to store them. A blued firearm stored in a fabric or leather case, will rust. If you intend to repair the gun yourself, WD-40 and OOOO steel wool will do wonders. For a proper repair, you need a professional. Regards, Clark
 
+3 on the fine steel wool. Wd-40, light oil, or fine steel wool soap pad and warm water. Disassemble including separating tubular magazine from barrel. Of course if water is used (lightly) dry immediately and thoroughly followed with oil. Obviously it's not gonna be good as new, just can you live with it. If not a professional reblue may be in order. Good luck
 
Hello,

I have a Winchester 94AE rifle purchased new sometime just after 92. It's only been shot a few dozen times.

However while placed into storage for quite a long time it accumulated rust


So it would seem. You are aware there may be more rust INSIDE the magazine tube and the receiver? Or not.

If there is a STRONG sentimental attachment to this specific one, have an experienced gunsmith assess the OVERALL condition and price some options. Expect those to include parts and labor that would cost more than a replacement that has never seen any rust at all.

I wouldn't even annoy a gunsmith. Too embarrassing. I'd simply arrange to dispose of it properly.

It could not be made to satisfy me even WITH a new barrel and magazine. A rather ordinary used one would be less hassle, less risk, and less costly.

It is only one more Winchester 94, They made rather a lot of those. They are still making them, brand new. They are still as good as they ever were after being fired a great deal more than "a few dozen times", so that is not really significant.

Don't mistake it for anything more important than what it is. A rusty "cowboy gun". Rusty ones were never really in great demand, and yours is not the first.

:(
 
It will never be "new" again. It is not necessarily valuable, nor collectible. However it can be made very presentable again with some new parts and a refinish. Send it to me and I will take care of it.
 
As far as tossing that Winchester, absolutely not, gareenteed it can be be put to a nice looking and functioning state with little effort..... flame suit on

Not flames. Cold salad, only.

Not going there as far as whether that - or any other NOT "antique, collectible" is or is not a worthy firearm for USE.

But we can also "generalize" off the back of what is similar applied to any other "common-not-rare" firearm.

It's about the time and money.

Simple grocery-store arithmetic. This one happens to be common enough there are used ones out there at reasonable prices. True of a great many OTHER firearms as well, handguns and shotguns included.

- Gunsmith repair will cost money. I'm holding to a "SWAG" of as much as a used one if not more.

- DIY repair will take time. Time is never really "free" or unlimited. At least "some" money for a few parts may be wise for best looks, even if not essential.

- IF DIY, it is still wise to have it looked-over by a Gunsmith for safety reasons - including possible issues introduced not by the rust, but by what the DIY'er did afterwards as to fasteners, springs, pins, sears..... proper assembly...or not ... wotever.

It isn't a complicated firearm. Very few of the others are, either. Repair is not "high risk". But neither is it as simple as de-rusting and repainting lawn furniture or a truck bed.

Some of those parts in that critter or any other have to WORK properly not just look good. That is why they are where they are.

I didn't get the impression that the OP was all that familiar with the 94, or we would already have had info that it had been striped-down and the tubular mag spring and follower were good, no rust was found in the lockworks, firing or trigger assembly, stock attachment fasteners, ANY fasteners, etc. etc. All the little picky stuff that runs up the time clock just to look and confirm no damage, "free" time or paid-for time.

Get this much VISIBLE rust?

Yah have to go and LOOK for more just to be on the safe side of no ongoing, out-of-sight slow degradation, even where not a risk to the shooter at all. Sometimes there IS risk of malfunction if not danger.

'nuther thing... I'd have a really hard time bragging - even to MYSELF ONLY - as to how well I had "fixed it up" if I had to also remember or explain why it NEEDED fixed up.

:)

My collection WAS mostly bought used. It has ages clear back into the early 1920's.

I'd be more embarrassed if I had let a one of them rust - ever - than if I were the world's worst shot at using them.

No rust. So far.

I ain't "immune" or anything magical. RIG and vapour bags and papers ain't perfect, storage "system" neither. There's always a bit of looking after to be done to keep it that way for any or all of us, any firearm, even polymer or stainless.

The "neglect" that caused this was some other Pilgrim's doing?

That's fine. I don't want his old truck, used underwear, first girl friend, or ex-wife, either!

Perfectly capable of generating my OWN grief without taking-on that of others.

:D
 
Agreed it is one the most produced models however that doesn't diminish that it's a finely made and very nice rifle. A peek down the barrel followed by a cleaning patch and oil well tell the tell on the condition of the bore which I suspect is just fine. With the lever thrown foreard there is plenty of room to inspect the inner workings. An hours worth of cleaning and it will be fine albeit with some rust speckling. It does appear to be a nice sporter edition with very nice walnut.
 
It does appear to be a nice sporter edition with very nice walnut.

Not rare, decent wood on a Winfester tube-mag. There actually WERE a few periods of Military, not "sporter" use, but it didn't much affect the looks nor design. They were ever and always daily-driver "working" or utilitarian tools as far as long-guns go, and not really all that bad at it.

Good looks offset lack of other stuff. Woods on my 99DL are plain-Jane to borderline ugly. Bronze follower on the rotary mag, and the rounds remaining count in a window is lovely to behold and works even better. Downrange? Different world, basically. No real point in comparing.

On this '94? I could surely see buying a good SHOOTER [1], worn bluing, mebbe not, but with a scabrous stock. Or not-even.

Swap the fine woods, the usual fitting work, and yah got TWO of somethin', one for rough use or different ammo, different goals, and not a lot of time or money wasted.

[1] Place I buy mine, yah gets to go out the back door and see how they print a target before yah commit. And/or/else get an immediate refund if No Joy.

They don't deal in used JUNK, only used value-for-money. That ain't "rare" BTW. Typical of any reputable dealer or Gunsmithing combo. None of them want to live off grief nor risk. Happy-camper repeat customers, rather.
 
Electrolysis is my go-to for rust removal. I have never tried to preserve bluing with the method, but in theory it would, since it converts red oxide to black oxide, and bluing is black oxide.
It wil get into all the pitting too, which may be missed if you just use 4-aught wool
After electro, then use the wool and CRC, brass wire brush if there are deep pitts, then degrease COMPLETELY.
I've read on forums, but haven't tried "evaporust", but it's recommended a lot.


Any kind of blasting may peen the surface, closing the pores and giving a variable finish that may show through bluing.

To refinish, hot bluing is ideal, fume bluing a more labour intensive but equal finish. If you're unconcerned about looks or originality then a ceramic coating may also suit your purpose but you're less likely to get a decent finish in-house. Hot salt nitriding could add bit of character to the receiver.
If there was ever a time and place for chrome, I'm sure this isn't it.
 








 
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