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Sleeving a shotgun barrel for choke constriction

gbutler

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 24, 2011
Location
Iowa
How would one go about sleeving a 10 gauge barrel to add constriction after cutting it to a shorter length? I cant think it would be that complicated but dont know how to go about it. Looks are not an issue, It will just be a brush gun for coyote hunting. It will not be used with steel shot either.

Thanks
 
12 ga choke screw in choke tooling is easy to find.. Harder for 10. 10 ga screw in chokes, are available though.. Single pointing and getting everything right on a lathe, would not be fun.

A Jug choke is easiest. A section of bore before muzzle, is opened up with an expanding reamer.

A simple muzzle swage is UGLY, and less efficient. Muzzle is simply crimped to smaller OD/ID.

A Polychoke style silver braze on model, would work... And be adjustable. And also a 10 Ga problem child...

Shotgun tooling is kind of $$$. Sometimes its just best, to send out to someone who has it...

You only get one shot, Then you get to buy a new barrel if something goes wrong (assuming you have barrel at ~18 in)........ A Polychoke permanently attached choke, can save you one time though.
 
I'm no expert but that sounds like one expensive proposition!

Many years ago there was a company that would 'jug choke' shotgun barrels there were shortened -- but I do not recall the name nor do I know if it is still offered. My recollection is they 'squeezed' the barrel somehow, thereby creating the choke, and could provide different degrees of choke.
 
One way of going that I thought about was making a tube and attaching it to the barrel. My thought was to make it attach like a polychoke or powerpac. Essentially make a non adjustable polychoke on the lathe. But i have no idea what one would use for material.
 
I would stay away from Tula chokes. I did a good bit of experimentation with them on junk cooey single shots many years back and found them to be a very hit and miss type of thing. The simple way if its just a beater is to counter bore the muzzle about .030 thousandths per side for 2 inch's and then tin in a tapered ID sleeve and pull a choke reamer through it. You are basically making a non removable choke tube. I have done this many times over the years and it works well providing the barrel walls are thick enough. If they aren't, you can solder a tube on the outside much like the colonial arms choke tube adapter without the removable choke feature. Remember that the inside diameter of the start of the tube should be a few thousandths larger than the bore diameter so that the wad does not snag on the tube edge as it goes by. Make the tubes from 4140 or 4350 and leave it annealed. The constriction for 10 gauge full is .036 inch.
 
we have what we call turkey or card shoots around here. Shooting shotguns at paper targets with an X or a dot just bigger than a shot. The winner is who ever hits closest to the x or dot. So the densed possible pattern is best. I've sleeved close to a 100 barrels. Bore the muzzle out 3" back, then make your sleeve up,if you want a tight pattern bore the sleeve about .040" smaller than the bore of the barrel. Then bore the taper leaving a straight dia. the length of the shotcup on the ammo you want to use. Make the large end of the taper .005-.010" bigger than the bore of the barrel. Silver solder in the sleeve being careful not to leave a ridge of solder in the bore.
 
If you can find back bore reamers for 10 gauge, you can back bore your barrel and leave the desired choke at the muzzle. a good choke for coyotes would be anything from mod to full.
 
This thread is interesting. I had an IAC 87 Lever action 12Ga(Winchester copy) with a short barrel come in today. Owner wants the barrel extended from about 19" -28". I didn't like the idea of it so I looked for a replacement barrel only to find that the distributers and every other contact I have can't get a replacement. I suppose then that machining down the OD of the original barrel for about an inch or so and counter boring a piece of an old shitter barrel for a nice sliding clearance fit and soldering on isn't out of the question.
 
I have done that many times,extending shotgun barrels. The one thing you have to watch is that the barrel blank you used has a bore bigger or the same size as the original. If it's not run a forcing cone reamer in the blank to remove the mismatch.
 
If the cutoff end of the barrel is the right choke you could turn down the remnant, bore the barrel and solder the original choke back in. This would work if it had enough meat to work with.

Ben
 








 
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