Wandering Handgun Scope

C

Captain

Aluminum

Joined

Oct 22, 2004

Location

Stoughton, WI

• Oct 23, 2005

• #1

I recently put a Burris 2 x 20 scope on my Super Redhawk .44. Problem is I cannot get to scope to stop floating around in the rings. The ring caps are not bottomed out, and I tightened the screws as much as I dare without stripping them out. One book I have suggested using "rosin" in the scope rings. What is "rosin" and where would I get it? Has anyone used thread-locker or any other adhesive/sealant? How about some kind of tape? Thanks.

 

A

akbc

Aluminum

Joined

Nov 6, 2004

Location

alaska

• Oct 24, 2005

• #2

Captain, rosin is just dried pine tree pitch, music stores have it in blocks used for violin strings. Some gun smith suppliers sell it used on barrel wrenches to stop slipping during barrel removeal.I believe some sports use it mabey basketball or rock climbing.It really helps to stop things from slipping.There are also magnum pistol ring out there, multiple screws, multipal rings. Good luck Butch

 

W

willbird

Banned

Joined

Jul 19, 2005

Location

North(very) West(very) Ohio...near exit 13 on OH t

• Oct 24, 2005

• #3

Have you tried lapping the rings ?? That may give you a LOT more contact area. It is not hard to do at all, simply machine a 1" dia aluminum rod about 2x the length of the span between the rings, paint some clover on it and slide and rotate it until the rings clean up.

If you have never done this you may be amazed at how bad they often can be, mis-alingment bends the scope tube when you tighten the rings.

lapping the rings is nice too if you want to shim the rear base to get more elevation adjustment.


Bill

 

M

Michigander

Aluminum

Joined

May 14, 2004

Location

detroit, mi

• Oct 24, 2005

• #4

Try www.prone2success.com for lapping rods. I have both sizes, and find them to be a lot better than the hsorter ones from Brownells or Sinclair.

When lapping, I have found rings usually have 10%-50% contact before, and 80%-90% contact after lapping. For me, the problem of scope movement always occurred on my 12 ga slug gun.

I also tried putting a third ring on the scope body as a stop collar.

 

W

willbird

Banned

Joined

Jul 19, 2005

Location

North(very) West(very) Ohio...near exit 13 on OH t

• Oct 24, 2005

• #5

When I turned mine I used a heavy feed rate to leave a somewhat rough surface to maybe better hold the lapping compound, I also use it is a "turn in" rod for the types of scope rings that rotate into place.

Bill

 

C

Captain

Aluminum

Joined

Oct 22, 2004

Location

Stoughton, WI

• Oct 24, 2005

• #6

Thanks for the help. I will try lapping the rings. It is something I wanted to do anyway.

 

C

Captain

Aluminum

Joined

Oct 22, 2004

Location

Stoughton, WI

• Oct 24, 2005

• #7

I forgot to ask what grit clover compound you guys use for lapping?

 

W

willbird

Banned

Joined

Jul 19, 2005

Location

North(very) West(very) Ohio...near exit 13 on OH t

• Oct 25, 2005

• #8

I had some 320 as I recall that worked fine, clover breaks down rapidly in my opinion and the more you work it the finer it gets.

Bill

 

T

ted crivea

Aluminum

Joined

Aug 28, 2005

Location

Bayou La Batre Alabama

• Oct 27, 2005

• #9

You can use surgar in place of rosen or use lock tite

 

C

Captain

Aluminum

Joined

Oct 22, 2004

Location

Stoughton, WI

• Oct 28, 2005

• #10

Thanks Mr. Crivea. What is surgar? I ordered some Clover compound to lap the rings with. I think I will still use some LockTite though. Any tips for applying it? Should I coat the entire inner surface of the rings or just add a drop?

 

T

ted crivea

Aluminum

Joined

Aug 28, 2005

Location

Bayou La Batre Alabama

• Oct 29, 2005

• #11

use the red Lock Tite after it sets up you will need heat to remove it . Put it on the rings use the blue type on screws .

 

W

willp58

Plastic

Joined

Jan 16, 2005

Location

upstate NY

• Oct 31, 2005

• #12

I saw this years ago in an article in Guns & Ammo and I've used it ever since.
Find a store that sells electrical supplies and get a can of that stuff the guys use to seal outside connections.
It's a thick brown compound that never hardens. One can will last till you are an old man.
When it dries, it stays the consistancy of a rubber tire.
Put just a small amount on the rings, top and bottom. This will squish out and completely fill any voids and I will guarantee that the scope will not move in those rings again.
Of course you must make sure the base screws are good and tight and make SURE they are not bottomed out.