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What kind of steel to make a hammer or firing pin of?

Robbie

Plastic
Joined
May 3, 2004
Location
Kentucky
I'm kinda new to machine tool (two semesters) and haven't got into the types of steels and what their properties are yet (I need a book on this). What type of steel would be best to make a hammer or firing pin of? I need something that won't deform or break and can take several blows in fast succession like a semi-auto could do. What would hold up to repeated pounding and not break or deform, A2, D2 or some sort of spring steel? This part will be small and the way it is made extra material for reinforcement can't be left on it and weight is not an issue. Any suggestions?
 
I have made parts that need the same properties as a firing pin or hammer. I made them from "S" series tool steel, the "S" stands for shock resisting. I had to send my parts for heat treating but for one small part I think you could harden it yourself with an oil quench and temper with a lower temp.Practice heat treating on some scrap pieces until it's tough and hard.

WELCOME TO THE TRADE!!!
 
If it is really small, you can make it out of mild steel and case harden it. The case will penetrate almost the whole thing which will make it sufficiently strong. You could also make it from 4140 and not need to harden it.
 
Yes, the part is really small, About .160 x.160 x .600 long T shape with a pivot point at the intersection of the three legs. I work part time at a small shop and I could get a piece of scrap 4160 big enough to make this part if that would work or would the "S" series work better. In my book the (information is very limited) it says Manganese-Silicon 9255 is used for coil and leaf springs and 9262 is used for chisels and punches, are these metals hard to get what about the machining characteristics? It would be embarrassing if the part failed. Jim, I go to a Community College here in Kentucky. I knew I wanted to do this kind of work since I was a kid. In high school welding was the closest I could get to Machine Tool, so I had to wait and go somewhere else. Although the welding experience has proved invaluable many times.
 
You want to make sure the part is hard enough not to peen the edges wider so it can't get stuck in the fire position and make a semi-auto into a full auto to the surprise of the shooter.

4160 would probably be fine. If you can't get known material, most spring stock is probably OK but it may need annealing before it can be machined easily and then rehardened and tempered after machining. You don't want it brittle hard.

[ 10-18-2004, 01:17 AM: Message edited by: GGaskill ]
 
You can use "Stressproof" or ETD 150 and not have to heat treat it.

You can use drill rod if use temper it.

4130,4140 or 4150 can be heated till cherry red and quenched, preferably in oil but water will work.

I have used grade 8 bolts for Mauser firing pins. They work great. You dont have to heat treat them.

Make it too hard and it will break. Make it too soft and it will "peen". It should be hard enough that a file just cuts it with a bit of effort. If the file dosent cut it and it slides off, its too hard.
 
Use vegatable oil for hardening. Motor oil has a low flash point. If you have to use water add rock salt to increase the boiling point. Oil is the best however
 
Robbie,
I make firing pins, and other small parts from grade 8 bolts all the time. I anneal them with ox/acet torch, machine, then harden and draw back like making a spring. Have also made a few firing pins and shotgun hinge pins of mild steel, casehardened.
When in doubt, err on the side of safety.
Welcome to the craft.
 
Worn out punches, chisels, and screwdrivers.
I've used all three. I recall seeing the alloys for firing pins and screwdrivers listed in a gunsmithing book once, and they were the same alloy.
 








 
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