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special endmill to machine lymam target scope blocks

desmoore

Plastic
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Location
trenton fl
Hi;

I would like to machine Posa target scope blocks to Lymam- Unertl type mount.
I'm told the endmill is not available.
Any one know how to purchase one?

Thanks
Jim
 
Draw the shape, angles an dimensions with tolerances, and get a quote from a custom CNC tool grinder.

Dead easy. Not cheap. Well, not cheap like an off the shelf tool, but cheap compared to owning the grinding machine.

Or, buy a used manual cutter grinder, figure out what you need to know, make what you need.

Or, back to step one, draw it up, and get lucky, finding a fellow that owns a manual cutter grinder, works out of his garage, and charges out about what he would have if he were still as young as he was when he started.

Cheers
Trev
 
ok-325d-375e-475g-425f-275_-500x500.jpg


Is this what you want to make? Available from okweber.com for $13.
 
Just looking at the picture: it looks like a right angle between the dovetail and adjacent surface. If so, it could be cut with a standard end mill.
 
I've made the blocks before and I think you just need a 60* dovetail cutter for the angles. The locking seats for the coned screw on one side I just duplicated the screw in a piece of O-1 and made a single flute cutter. Never done a Posa but should be just dropping in the right size end mill for the locking seat.
 
Hi gzig5;
Thanks for the reply.

I'm confused, are you saying you can make the end mill that will machine the block for a Lyman mount?
 
You can make anything. I guess I'm confused what feature of the block you are trying to make and having trouble with. I just re-read the OP and sounds like you have the block and it has the POSA style lock milled in it and you want to put the little "smiley" cut on the side for a Unertl locking screw? If so, yes I made the cutter to make that feature. Simply take a piece of O1 or W1, turn it to a little larger diameter than the head of the base locking screw and then put the radiused counter bore in the end. I don't remember if I used a ball end mill, form tool I ground, 60* center drill, or just free handed it. It doesn't need to be very precise. You are just trying to duplicate the feature of the locking screw plus some clearance. Once you have that, make it into a single flute cutter by removing material where needed and then harden and temper. Probably the trickiest part is getting the position of the new feature on the block right but some marking fluid and the scope base should help.
 








 
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