Stevens Savage 87H Firing Pin Material

J

jpeach1

Aluminum

Joined

Jun 14, 2009

Location

Hampstead MD

• Jan 20, 2017

• #1

A dear friend of mine who is suffering form a second round of non hodgkin's lymphoma brought me his model 87 H the other day and ask me to take a look at it. I'm not a gun smith, don't claim to be although I routinely maintenance my own firearms. His main complaint was that the action was jamming. It was clear he didn't have the strength to want to undertake why and ask that I take a look for him. Mostly the action needed a good cleaning. The only real defects I see after close inspection after a disassembly is that the firing pin is worn in places and needs replacement. I can model a new one easy enough and machine with some creative fixtures, what material should be used? Would it require selective or whole heat treating after?

I looked online for a replacement firing pin and located two sources, but they have not responded to my request. If anyone has some good advice on cutting one out of the proper material, a source for a new firing pin, or someone in the MD area who could make this rifle like new I would appreciate a constructive reply. .22 rim.

Feel I owe it to someone that deserves it, so I really appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,

Jim

 

GGaskill

Titanium

Joined

Feb 14, 2001

Location

Central AZ

• Jan 21, 2017

• #2

It needs to be hard enough to prevent battering or any other kind of distortion that could cause it to stick in the forward position. I would use whatever is available and case harden or something like 4130 and harden the front and rear although not real hard. 4130 won't get real hard anyway because of the lack of carbon.

 

Spyderedge

Titanium

Joined

Aug 28, 2013

Location

NY

• Jan 21, 2017

• #3

I think any mildly hardened drill rod should due.

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

 

J

jonok

Cast Iron

Joined

Sep 18, 2013

Location

Michigan

• Jan 21, 2017

• #4

I'm as much into making off the shelf stuff out of principle as the next guy, but a cursory Internet search showed these available from bobs gun parts for $25.
Maybe buy him the firing pin and spend your time on something you can't conveniently buy that he also needs done...
Of course, if that's a place you looked, I'll just be quiet now...

 

Forestgnome

Stainless

Joined

Aug 2, 2008

Location

Californeeeah

• Jan 22, 2017

• #5

Make it out of O1, harden and temper. Only have to harden the tip. Don't make the tip too sharp or it will pierce.

 

J

jpeach1

Aluminum

Joined

Jun 14, 2009

Location

Hampstead MD

• Jan 23, 2017

• #6

Forestgnome said:

Make it out of O1, harden and temper. Only have to harden the tip. Don't make the tip too sharp or it will pierce.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the constructive replies. After reading through the forum and checking into what is available was arriving at the same conclusion. I’ll CNC this profile out of O1 (since I have some), hand file the contours of the tip, careful not to go too narrow, and treat the end, give it a go.
Much appreciated.

 

T

turnredux

Plastic

Joined

Jan 19, 2017

• Jan 24, 2017

• #7

In replaceing a fireing pin w/ O1 or orig, a tip protrusion of .o55 is suggested. Could you post a picture of orig, Sav. springfield had conversion kits 87H, 85,s etc. Was it clip fed or tube? Turnredux

 

U

ulav8r

Cast Iron

Joined

Feb 21, 2003

Location

Russellville

• Jan 24, 2017

• #8

It's been too long since I've looked at mine, but the length should not be long enough to touch the chamber recess. Measure the recess and make the tip .005 shorter, at least.

 

T

turnredux

Plastic

Joined

Jan 19, 2017

• Jan 24, 2017

• #9

Yes thanks ulav8r; best be conseverative. May want to 1st test w/ .22rf short 1rd, It wont cycle a semiauto. Go slow, hard to put tip back on. bye.

 

GGaskill

Titanium

Joined

Feb 14, 2001

Location

Central AZ

• Jan 24, 2017

• #10

I would suggest hardening the rear end as well since it is going to be pounded by the hammer and you don't want it to mushroom.

 

J

jpeach1

Aluminum

Joined

Jun 14, 2009

Location

Hampstead MD

• Jan 26, 2017

• #11

 

GGaskill

Titanium

Joined

Feb 14, 2001

Location

Central AZ

• Jan 27, 2017

• #12

That is awful long and spindly. I would heat treat the whole thing. It will need all the strength it can get.

 

Forestgnome

Stainless

Joined

Aug 2, 2008

Location

Californeeeah

• Jan 29, 2017

• #13

GGaskill said:

That is awful long and spindly. I would heat treat the whole thing. It will need all the strength it can get.

Click to expand...

It's pretty likely that will warp like a banana if you try to heat treat the whole thing. It can be done with the right technique. I would just go with a heat treat on each end. If you do decide to heat treat the whole thing, quench vertically.

 

U

ulav8r

Cast Iron

Joined

Feb 21, 2003

Location

Russellville

• Jan 29, 2017

• #14

Forestgnome said:

It's pretty likely that will warp like a banana if you try to heat treat the whole thing. It can be done with the right technique. I would just go with a heat treat on each end. If you do decide to heat treat the whole thing, quench vertically.

Click to expand...

And then draw the center to slightly softer than the ends, but no softer than spring temper.

 

T

turnredux

Plastic

Joined

Jan 19, 2017

• Feb 1, 2017

• #15

jpeach; Thanks for photosI requested. have a couple F.p.s.to compare.Gun Parts Corp sent wrong model I still have and would donate to the cause. None match yours..Your fire pin tip looks saveable maybe. From photo apears the rear lower boss, projection looks rounded, should be a acute 90deg. As a last resort grinding the face of spring loaded slide hammer to increase F.P.projection. But only as last resort, can always buy a another slide hammer. Tr.