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  1. #21
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    Thank you both for the info. That should help me tackle the problem. I got another air regulator coming and will just change the bottom portion of that. When i ran the alcohol thru the line it wouldnt skip or his and not slowly clamp. Im thinking the clamp problem is this. Ill get up there and clean out the exhaust.
    I got a proximity switch for the carousel counter, will change that out. Will keep an eye on it when running to make sure it picks up the correct tools. Should be good after a coupld days solid??
    Could you give me an idea about a dryer?

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    Size the air dryer to the horsepower/CFM of your compressor, and make sure it has a working condensate drain (auto or manual) if you go used. It's basically just a refrigerator with a heat exchange coil that the air runs through. Have a good water/oil trap on the outlet, or you can put it some distance away for further efficiency.

    If you go used make sure the compressor is working correctly with no leaks and the right lubricant.

    The Art of Dryer Sizing | Compressed Air Tips from Kaeser Talks Shop

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  4. #23
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    I have used the simple air dryer from Harbor Freight for years and years. Great unit and very inexpensive. About $300.00 with the typical 20% or 25% off coupon.

    Mike

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  6. #24
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    If you have a reasonable size air compressor and are willing for a bit of extra air use, get a membrane air dryer, they actually get air dryer than the refrigerator units.

    They have to have a prefilter and take a bit of care with sizing, etc, but it can be a good fit in some situations.

    I have been using a SMC IDG10-N03B for quite some time now, haven't had any issues. I think standby air use is around 1 cfm.

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  8. #25
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    Hey fellas, thanks for the tips on the dryer. I need to figure out the machine first and then will get something hooked up
    My dealer thought it was the solenoid in the front so i replaced that whole unit. It wasnt it. The unclamp works every time. Its sometimes when it clamps the drawbar goes uo slowly both proximity switch lights will be on as it slowly clamps (drawbar goes up) then there will be hissing until it finally gets to the top of its travel. It sounds like there isnt enough air pressure to push it up or a diaphram isnt sealiny well (hisss)
    Could it be that air pressure switch on thr side of the collumn? Maybe a faulty regulator or other solinoid?
    Hmmm... may have to throw a couple more things at it.

    EDIT: ok here is a link to the video, any ideas? Could it be that air pressure switch?

    July 14, 217 - YouTube
    Last edited by conceptsmachine; 07-14-2017 at 09:54 PM.

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    Looks like something is broke

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  11. #27
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    Any ideas, looking at the video?

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    I know that we have replaced the "Humphrey" exhaust valve a couple times for our haas. I bet that's ur problem. Sorry if this was gone over but I've really just looked at the video and not much else. The Humphrey exhaust valve is the aluminum part right next to the solenoid.

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  14. #29
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    Thanks for the reply Nodeco!
    Is this the part?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20170717_112310.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by conceptsmachine View Post
    Any ideas, looking at the video?
    You have been offered several ideas, have you investigated any of them yet?

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    Quote Originally Posted by BGL View Post
    Blew out the site glass?? There some oils that will weaken acrylic and polycarbonate, never had an issue with IPA.

    With a slow release you may have a clogged exhaust filter, you will have to remove cover on top of spindle to access. You should be able to remove and clean it..
    The next thing could be your drawbar need a good cleaning and lubrication.. the manual covers how to R&R it.

    Looks like:

    Attachment 202752
    Quote Originally Posted by conceptsmachine View Post
    Thanks for the reply Nodeco!
    Is this the part?
    Yes, start with that.

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  19. #32
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    My guess is the solenoid on top of the piston. Those seals get tired and I think that thing is stuck halfway.

    BTW, Automation direct solenoids cost about 1/4 and work as well, although you have to wire them yourself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by conceptsmachine View Post
    Thanks for the reply Nodeco!
    Is this the part?
    That would be the 1. There was a way to check if that's the culprit but I forget how.

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  23. #34
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    Yep, i got that Humphries on order. After i read what that part does, i have some faith this is it.
    I have cleaned all the solinoids out, the screens were remarkably clean. I changed out the prox switch for the carousel.

    Just out of curiosity, does that whole housing that the humpries is tied into supposed to flex like the video shows.(when actuating the drawbar) Figure it would break after all the flexing, time and time again.

    Got an air dryer on order as well.
    Thanks a lot.

  24. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by friesen View Post
    My guess is the solenoid on top of the piston. Those seals get tired and I think that thing is stuck halfway.

    BTW, Automation direct solenoids cost about 1/4 and work as well, although you have to wire them yourself.
    Thank you. I changed out the one on the front by the humphries and no difference...just $300. Poorer haha.

    Quote Originally Posted by NodecoMachine View Post
    That would be the 1. There was a way to check if that's the culprit but I forget how.
    I got one on order, ill get it on by noon tomorrow and let you guys know.

    Thanks for everyones help.

  25. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by conceptsmachine View Post
    Just out of curiosity, does that whole housing that the humpries is tied into supposed to flex like the video shows.(when actuating the drawbar) Figure it would break after all the flexing, time and time again.
    .
    I cannot see flexing in the video. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong spot? Maybe the air lines are moving slightly and makes it look like it's flexing?

  26. #37
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    The valve solved the clamping problem! Thanks so much for everyones help, i'll pay it forward.
    Here is a picture Nodeco of the "flex".

    What happens is that whole base lifts slighly and it causes the pipe stem to move in the direction of the arrows. It may be normal, but I figure it would ware some stuff out after a while. If its not normal, what do you think may be causing it? The flex is minimal, like in the video, it may move .1 forward and back but IMO, it doesn't seem like the housing was built with thick enough walls to prevent it ( unless its supposed to bulge) , unless there is TOO much pressure in there.

    Thanks
    Jim
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails housing.jpg  


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