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09-03-2007, 12:23 PM #1
Ok.....feeling like a complete ass on this one, but as I was waiting for a tool change on my Haas VF-0 I pressed the reset button by accident. The tool is locked into the umbrella and at the same time it clamped into the spindle when I hit the button. Not the "E" stop......the "Reset" button. My question is what do I do now? I'm afraid to touch the machine for fear it will send the "Z" axis home and rip the tool right out of the tool changer. Will the tool changer automatcially return leaving the tool in the spindle if I do an MDI and call for another tool, or is going to rip the tool out of the changer and go to "Z" home to index the changer.
I tried pushing a little on the tool changer to return it home, but the tools are pretty tight in most of the slots this being one of them (Tool#4)
Stupid! Stupid! Stupid!.....I could just scream!
Besides waiting until Tuesday to call Haas........What should I do....take off the rest of the day? If only I could.
09-03-2007, 12:39 PM #2
Is there a "Recover" button on your machine?
It's there on newer HAAS's, and is used then things like this happen.
09-03-2007, 12:46 PM #3
Nope....no recover button.
Wish there was a
"Hey Stupid....don't press this yet!" button that's what I need!
09-03-2007, 12:47 PM #4
Couple buttons to the right of the Reset, there should be a "Toolchanger Restore", it will walk you through the sequence of getting it out.
If there isn't, then call HAAS. They should be able to walk you through going into DEBUG mode and manually trigger the solenoids and move the Z axis up.
09-03-2007, 12:53 PM #5
Read your post about the lack of the recover, so one more thing to try.
The machine should realize that there is an error in the toolchanger. If you power down and up again, the power up sequence is Z to home, then X/Y home, then Z to toolchange pos. with solenoids open. If it lets you run the power up, then you may get the thing out.
Caution though, since it is the older type with the gas canister, I woudl be hesitant to leave the machine as it is. If the canister leaks just a little bit, then you'll be putting all the weight of the head onto the toolchanger.
09-03-2007, 12:53 PM #6
Seymour.....before the "Z" axis can move up, the tool changer has to go home.....that is the problem.
09-03-2007, 12:57 PM #7
Also....this machine does not have a gas canister...it has the counterwight in the column.
All I need to do is get the tool changer to go home, and I will be golden. If I could manually push it home that would be great, or if call out a tool change and it goes home that would great also, but I just cannot have the Z axis be the first move or there will be BIG trouble.
09-03-2007, 01:03 PM #8
You've said the toolchanger and the spindle both are holding onto the tool right now.
In that case the Z is already home, and the toolchanger will be the first thing to go home.
Ok, just tested it on both of my machines. For my convenience they both home out differently so cannot give you the exact sequence you should expect, but in both cases hitting the "Power up/Restart" caused the solenoids be open above the toolchanger.
Try it, I'm quite sure they have counted on similar things even back then.
09-03-2007, 01:05 PM #9
With a long flat head screw driver push the arm that is behind the toolchanger down. This arm is attached to a gear motor that sends the whole toolchanger forward and back. First stand on the table and with a flashlight you will see the arm. Push it down and you will see the changer move back. Once you push it down all the way , from the right side door access you have to stand and push the arm up to get on the other side and hit the limit switch. I have a couple older HAAS without the recover button. This works I have done it before.
09-03-2007, 01:38 PM #10
Seymour.....thanks a TON! I set the rapid to 5% and pressed the "zero all axis" button with one hand on the "E" stop and with my heart in my throat watched as the tool changer went home, and the axis' zeroed out. Now I just a need a couple tranquilizers to calm my nerves and it's back to work! Been one hell of week......geez, actually come to think of it, it's already a new week....well, anyways...it's been brutal lately with problems, and work up the wazzuuu to boot so no time for stupid stuff like this. Thanks again!
Frank....thanks for the help as well, and the offer for phone assistance. Also, want you to know those holders you see in the pictures are all yours my good man! Great holders and even better pricing.....as we keep getting busier and busier, I will be buying more holders to fill that tool changer....spend too much time changing tooling in the holders I already have, instead of just loading them in and running the parts.
Have a great Labor Day all.....back to work here!
09-03-2007, 02:14 PM #11
Thanks Wrustle, I am happy your machine is up and running. Just another note, in the back of the control are 4 removable relays that are responsible for tool changer operation. These relays are under sized and do not last long. Talk to your HAAS dealer and keep 4 in stock ( throw them in a bag and put in the electrical cabinet). I always keep 10 in my toolbox, I pay around $18 each. Once you get some tool changer alarms such as shuttle timeout or whatever, change the relays. The relays are not soldered to the board. they just come out with a snap. Just to be safe turn of the machine even though I do it with the machine on.
I am happy to see you are using my holders. Don't work too hard buddy.
09-03-2007, 02:45 PM #12
It may sound hokey, but those relays seem to last a long time, longer than new if you pop off the plastic cover and sand the tiny peak off the contact points with 320 grit paper, then hold the points open and blow out any grit. It seems that when they make that peak on one side they make a cavity in the other, once the peak is removed I don't think we have had one stick. As I recall the old ignition points in cars, the good ones had a hole in them too and they cycle a lot more than a tool changer does.
09-03-2007, 04:09 PM #13
I used to sand them also. Yes it would help a lot. I would put a thin diamond file between them and slide back and forth.
09-03-2007, 09:30 PM #14
070903-1921 EST USA
When you switch a DC circuit there is a unidirectional movement of metal from one contact to the other. Over time this builds a mound on one contact and a cavity on the other.
Use the same relay on an AC load and you might get 10 x the relay contact life.
09-03-2007, 11:07 PM #15
oh, so that is why they dont last so long. Thanks for the info Gar.
09-05-2007, 05:45 AM #16
Just thought I should say .. that the method maritool mentioned is what we use ( even if we have the recover button).
The revocer button works fine all right but I prefer to just power off and move the arm .
In fact we made a special tool with a bend at one end (like a walking stick) so that we can hook it to the arm and pull it.
We get a lot of power failures here. and I always have this fear about the auto recover sequence .I keep thinking that Something will move with a CRUNCHING sound and bend the carousel....
Glad to know the screwdriver method is a reliable one...