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speed multiplier for new vf-2

moldmaker10

Aluminum
Joined
May 11, 2003
Location
gaffney, s.c. us
Just got in a new vf-2. What a sweet little machine. I'm looking at adding a speed multiplier as 7500 rpm's are lacking for some of the work I will be required to do. I spoke to the technician rom Haas when he came to set up the machine and he said the 2 screws on the opposite side of the head (opposite the tool changer side) is ok to remove and add the stop block. Has anyone added a speeder and is the info correct. I just don't want to remove the screws in the head if it would cause any issues. He didn't seem to be 100% sure.

Thanks,
 
Besides trying to get to 15k, what are trying to do...aluminum, engraving??? As I recall, those speeders are pretty pricey. If you are using a very small cutter and doing delicate work, maybe an air spindle may be a good option. I had used one for doing a bunch of engraving on a Haas in a previous life, worked great running at 40k (more speed is better - 100k would have given us only ~300SFM), and you don't run your standard spindle, just xyz.

Steve
 
I bought a Big Sheppard years ago...around 5k. My spindle cruises at 4k while the speeder is at 20k. I use it mostly for engraving. It can hold a .375 dia. cutter but it's not going to take/survive hundreds of inches a minute with a buried cutter. Also you will have to leave a pocket empty on both sides of the carousel. I never got it to work in my Haas with the side mount tool changer....have to hand load it.
Carl
 
Excellant results in..........

Cutting molding & shut-off details in Plastic-Injection-Molds.
One of our's would run for-ever. The other needed a trickel of coolant
over the housing to keep it from overheating.

There was a Shepard on E-bay recently !!
Alternative Machine Tool ??? I think.

Using a bolt from around the spindle to mount the tiller,
is not a problem.
We also hand-loaded the Speeder.
Make sure your program is free or tool-changes after use !!

m1m
 
I have used a speed multiplier for years in a Mazak and know the benefits and pit falls. My main question is did you guys use the 2 bolts opposite the ubrella tool changer to mount the stop block. The guy who set up the machine said it was ok but some of his comments on other subjects did not match the manual and the actual facts so I just want to make sure it is ok to remove the 2 bolts to add the stop block.
 
Another possible solution!!

Just got in a new vf-2. What a sweet little machine. I'm looking at adding a speed multiplier as 7500 rpm's are lacking for some of the work.

Moldmaker,
You might ask around, but I have seen multiple threads that claim to change a few parameters which allow a 7500 RPM motor to run 10,000 RPM. Supposedly, Haas uses the same setup for each application. Same motor and same spindle. If I am wrong on this, someone else may have more insight, and I will stand to be corrected. Check cnczone.com. Great forum!!:cheers:

Just a good ol' boy, never meanin' no harm.
Joe
 
The 6 allen head capscrews simply hold the end cap onto the spindle. The endcap does provide the clamping effect for the outside races of the lower pair of spindle bearings. However, it is not a sensitive 'adjustment' type thing, since the preload is built into the spindle bearings and spacers. All you should ensure is that the cap screws are done up firmly.

I have a couple of 10-32 holes tapped in the end cap to attach my stop block, so that all of the 6 main capscrews remain in place at all times.

Observing cleanliness precautions, you should be able to remove the end cap completely to do this properly. The spindle won't drop out unless it is dangerously loose in the bearings. The spindle pulley on the top end would stop it anyway.

I use a small speeder by OMG, some Italian make. Its is an ER16 model, good for 18k rpm. I do engraving and some milling with 1/16 endmills with it. Seems to be okay, temperature rise is as expected.
 
The two tapped holes on the black spindle ring oppsite the tool carousel are for the stop block. I think the 10k spindle machines don't have a gear box. I'm not sure the running the gearbox at ten grand is a good idea.
Carl
 
Engraving and turning small endmills is what I intend on using the speeder. I have already purchased a speeder (lyndex) 20,000 rpm. The speeder should be here any day. I just wanted to get my all my ducks in a row before it arrived. If I put the stop block opposite the carousel shouldn't I be able to just leave it attached without any problems.
 
Engraving and turning small endmills is what I intend on using the speeder. I have already purchased a speeder (lyndex) 20,000 rpm. The speeder should be here any day. I just wanted to get my all my ducks in a row before it arrived. If I put the stop block opposite the carousel shouldn't I be able to just leave it attached without any problems.


This is really no diff than a tapping head torque arm. I had one mounted on a machine in the front _looking raight at the operator, but swinging it on around alittle further should be just as good. Anywhere on the opposite side of the toy changer should werk.


-------

Kan you see the Real me? Kan yuh?
Ox
 
I've posted this before but make sure there's an empty pocket on BOTH sides of your speeder. This will keep the spindle housing from ripping the speeder from the carousal as it moves down in Z. That arm on the speeder will be sticking out of the carousal and WILL be looking to get grabbed by the head. Tool changes are not a problem...just be careful.
Carl
 
Moldmaker,
You might ask around, but I have seen multiple threads that claim to change a few parameters which allow a 7500 RPM motor to run 10,000 RPM. Supposedly, Haas uses the same setup for each application. Same motor and same spindle. If I am wrong on this, someone else may have more insight, and I will stand to be corrected. Check cnczone.com. Great forum!!:cheers:

Just a good ol' boy, never meanin' no harm.
Joe


Just curious where you heard this? Are these gear box machines? I have been pondering the idea for a while to boost rpm a bit. Of course Haas does not want to hear it but if there are gear box machines running 10K, they could probably handle it. I was just looking to sneak it up a bit like 8500-9000. I would be interested to look into this more. I agree a couple parameters is all it would take to get more speed and really, as long as bearing temps are observed, I doubt there would be issues. Seems like those 7500 spindles last forever so they may be able to take a bit more imo.
 
Higher RPM's

Just curious where you heard this? Are these gear box machines?

Viper,
I don't know a lot of specifics on this. But, if you go to cnczone.com/forums home/Haas mills, you can read thru the multiple forums that many other members have claimed this to be true. I also had a tech. in yesterday that verified this. Higher spindle RPM and aster IPM feedrates can both be changed with a few parameter changes. We will also be checking into this with a greater urgency to try to speed up some of the slower productive lines.:drool5: Hope this helps.

Joe
 
OMG speed multiplier?

Hu,

How do you think your OMG multiplier would hold up to 1/8" and 1/4" ball endmill finishing work? I'm thinking about buying a TM-2 or TM-3 along with a multiplier for engraving or finishing work on 3D aluminum molds. I just got a quote for a 6X OMG multiplier for $5900. Does yours use coolant to keep the temperature down or is it self encapsulated? Would you buy it again after using it for a while, or do you think its use hasn't justified the expense? Thanks!

Mike
 
Mike,
I think that for light finishing, it should not hurt the speeder. The excellency of your spindle taper might limit its use, because it is working some significant distance below the normal gauge line of the spindle. Any runout will understandably affect the finish appearance, and moderate cuts with a 1/4" tool may cause more deflection than you'd like. But 1/8" should be fine, and very light finishing with a larger tool should not cause excessive heat rise.

My OMG manual does not recommend coolant flooding it, but if I thought it would be running for an extended period, I would use a light airflow across it to slow the temperature rise. One would have to take heat growth into account on a critical dimension.

So far, I have only used up to 1/16" endmills in it for slotting and engraving, on a 30 minutes on, 30 minute off duty cycle. It gets warm, but not hot. They do have a break in procedure for it, similar to breaking in a new spindle.
 








 
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