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  1. #1
    helocat is offline Aluminum
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Newberg, Oregon
    Posts
    130

    Default Removing a tool changer from TM-1. How hard to realign?

    I have a used PCOOL unit I am installing and need to feed the wire for it up into the head under the sheet metal spindle cover. Haas conveniently installed ONE screw behind the steel mounting arm for the tool changer. I am faced with having to unbolt the tool changer from the top of the mill casting and swing it out of the way.

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    Ok with unbolting it (4 easy to get to bolts) , easy I see the lifting ring so the fork lift will hold it nicely. BUT my question is the alignment of the tool changer after I put it back on. It has two .5" dowel pins locating it along the x axis but its slotted for the Y axis.





    I am thinking I can scribe the Y axis alignment before pulling the changer, then tap it back into place. The height of the changer should not change since all I am doing is just unbolting, pulling the cover screw (that will not be re-installed!) and putting the changer back in place. Any flaws here.....? Am I like I am going to mess it all up.


    My other option is to route the PCOOL wire along the coolant line and in through one of the many unused knock outs on the side of the cabinet. BUT I messed with the manual tool release button to see if it was screwed in. It loosened and no way to tighten it with out taking the spindle cover off. . Ya not smart. Plus I want to have it wired so it looks original and not a add on. I like a clean looking mill.

    Suggestions?

    Mark

  2. #2
    haastec is offline Cast Iron
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Southwest, USA
    Posts
    364

    Default

    You cannot access the screw by raising/lowering the z axis? If not, if it is not a critical screw for keeping the cover on, I would find a way to cut the head off and be done with it forever.

    I would unbolt the T/C as a last resort if it was up to me.


    Just thought of this; from your picture, it looks as though the screw is pretty close to clearing the tube. If the z is all the way up in the picture, try enabling "jog without zero return" in settings to see if you can raise it past the switch enought to get at it. Jog slowly as you will most likely bump the hard stop, but you shouldn't do any damage though. Be sure to jog back down when finished.

    Hope this helps.

  3. #3
    machineit2 is offline Cast Iron
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    378

    Default

    The way to get that screw off is with a good chisel. I have done this many times. Just position the chisel on the head pointing in the direction you want the screw to go, slightly above center.. Hold it firmly and hit lightly with hammer. The chisel will dig into the head and then turn it. Don't hit too hard to begin with, only use the effort as needed.

    The chisel needs to be sharp, so that it does dig into the head. With care, you won't even damage the housing. Replace with a hex head screw or leave off.

    Mike

  4. #4
    helocat is offline Aluminum
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Newberg, Oregon
    Posts
    130

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by haastec View Post
    You cannot access the screw by raising/lowering the z axis? If not, if it is not a critical screw for keeping the cover on, I would find a way to cut the head off and be done with it forever.

    I would unbolt the T/C as a last resort if it was up to me.


    Just thought of this; from your picture, it looks as though the screw is pretty close to clearing the tube. If the z is all the way up in the picture, try enabling "jog without zero return" in settings to see if you can raise it past the switch enought to get at it. Jog slowly as you will most likely bump the hard stop, but you shouldn't do any damage though. Be sure to jog back down when finished.

    Hope this helps.


    Ok I will crawl into a hole now..... yes the z axis can be moved up, yes the screw will then clear. Man if only I could delete this post.... feel like an idiot.

    Clear case of getting so focused on one thing and not looking at the whole picture. Have the mill powered down and locked out and did not even think that part of course moves.

    Going back to my hole now.

  5. #5
    haastec is offline Cast Iron
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Southwest, USA
    Posts
    364

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by helocat View Post
    Ok I will crawl into a hole now..... yes the z axis can be moved up, yes the screw will then clear. Man if only I could delete this post.... feel like an idiot.

    Clear case of getting so focused on one thing and not looking at the whole picture. Have the mill powered down and locked out and did not even think that part of course moves.

    Going back to my hole now.
    If only I could say I have never done something similar to that. At least you didn't take the tool changer off first.

    Glad it turned out to be easy.

  6. #6
    SIM
    SIM is offline Titanium
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Staten Island NewYork USA
    Posts
    2,272

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by helocat View Post
    Ok I will crawl into a hole now..... yes the z axis can be moved up, yes the screw will then clear. Man if only I could delete this post.... feel like an idiot.

    Clear case of getting so focused on one thing and not looking at the whole picture. Have the mill powered down and locked out and did not even think that part of course moves.

    Going back to my hole now.

    LOL

    ...like I've never done something like that. Just be glad you asked and found out before...

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