Tired of adjusting the loc-line coolant on your TL?
On my last 20 part run, I got real tired of the tool change routine: change tool, turn on coolant, adjust loc-line, hit green button, repeat. Sometimes in the adjust the loc-line stage the loc-line would pop off the ball-valve and spray coolant all over the ceiling and in my face. This latest fight with the loc-line reminded me of how much I hated it all the times before. I started thinking of ways around it.
A few weeks ago I had back surgery. I spent A LOT of time in bed and on my couch. I started sketching what a repeatable and easy to use coolant setup would look like. OK, the Dorian Victory toolpost with their Jet-Stream tool holders would be nice, but I didn't have that and wasn't planning on changing over. Anyway, the limited choice of toolholders and high prices are what kept me away from them in the first place back when I bought my TL-1.
After I decided on a design, I drew it up in Solidworks and ordered parts. Finally I got well enough to venture out to the shop and I whacked out enough parts for two TL coolant "kits". One for me, and one for PM member John Deere. I test drove mine and it worked great. At first look it appears to be vastly better than adjusting the loc-line. I haven't done a production run (back can't handle it yet), so I don't know if some irritating little gremlin might pop up. I did find one thing I would change if I were to do it again (but probably won't).
What I wanted to accomplish was to attach a part to each tool holder that has a way to get coolant repeatably on the insert and is easy to attach to the coolant line. I decided to attach this part to the toolholder by replacing one of the stick tool clamp set screws with a longer one and by using a washer and nut. I've only got Aloris and Dorian tool holders, so I designed this coolant block to fit either holder. The set screw spacing and distance from the edge of tool holder is slightly different between the two brands. This coolant block has a small 0.1" step in it to keep it from rotating when attaching/removing the coolant line. I made my stuff to fit Aloris and Dorian CXA-1 and -2 tool holders and other holders that have similar set screw spacing. I don't know if it will fit aftermarket tool holders or other sizes.
The coolant line is attached to this coolant block through the use of a mini quick-disconnect like is used on air systems. A quick-disconnect fitting is on the back side of the block and a compression fitting on the front. I used 3/16" copper refrigerator line to get the coolant from the compression fitting to the insert. I decided on the more expensive mini quick-disconnect instead of regular sized ones for three reasons: I could make my block smaller because of the smaller fittings, the smaller fittings stick out of the back side of the tool holder less, and the smaller diameter quick-disconnect (5/8") will stick out to the side less than the full sized ones.
To get the coolant from the coolant tank to the quick disconnect, I decided to run it through a manifold. After I took apart all the claptrap that was the coolant bracket that Haas sent me, I found that the line from the coolant tank terminated in a 1/4-18 NPT fitting. I had that fitting run into the side of my manifold block and come out the top of the block straight into a ball valve and then to a 3/16" hose barb. That is where the hose connects between the quick disconnect and the manifold. Next to the ball valve/hose barb on the top of the manifold I put another mini quick-disconnect fitting and had a hole run through the manifold that connects it to where I screwed in the dreaded loc-line (also 1/4-18 NPT). That way if there is no way to hook up a doo-dad on the tool holder to get coolant to the tool, just plug the quick-disconnect back into the manifold and use the darn loc-line. This is where I would change my design some. I would have the quick-disconnect fitting come in from the operator side of the manifold instead of the top. It would make machining the manifold simpler and would make it easier to connect. I was worried about clearance attaching from the side, but I'm not anymore.
For through-coolant tools, I just make connectors that I can screw one of the quick disconnect fittings into and attach to the tool. In the pictures I show one of my through-coolant boring bars with a delrin connector. I just pipe tapped one end and bored the other end to fit over the end of the boring bar and glued it onto the boring bar.
Hopefully the pictures will clear up what I'm trying to describe.
Caveats: the coolant block sticks out the side of the tool holder by 1/2", and the mini quick disconnect by a little more than that. Be careful of working close to the chuck on large diameter parts as clearance could become an issue. The second possible problem is that I don't know what long-term affect the coolant will have on the o-ring in the quick disconnect as they are meant for air.
Total cost to put together a 12-part kit would be close to $100, not counting machine time. Cost per part is obviously lower the more you make. Some things I bought in quantity (like 100 2" 3/8-16 set screws) so my cost may be lower on some parts than you may be able to get if buying less.
I have no desire to make these for sale. I have more to do than I have time for. If anyone wants a BOM and/or drawings send me a PM. If there is a lot of interest, I could probably just post them here. Of course I could be way off base here. Maybe I'm the only one to have problems with the loc-line...
Last edited by Eric U; 10-31-2010 at 05:37 AM.
Looks like an answer to me!!
That's one of those why didn't I think of that like some of the great ideas on Frank Ford's website.
It sure won't be limited to just TL-1's that's for sure. Great idea, I think I'll have one of those for each of my Monarchs soon
Nice design, but if I understand it correctly you still have to manually swap the quick connect ends, correct?
Since its a gang holder, it seems like you could fab up a combo manifold/valve that would only pass coolant to the active tool.
I'm thinking of a manfold behind the gang holder, outlets at the top, with a plunger/gate rod inside the manifold that is fixed with a bracket to the underside of the bed so that the gate rod moves inside the manifold as the cross slide moves to position to the active tool.
The plunger/gate rod would have machined passages to only pass coolant to the active tool. I guess sealing this plunger rod would be a challenge, but some tough o-rings might work.
First, hope you have a successful recovery from your back surgery. Make sure you follow the doctors orders to the T during the recovery period.
Many thanks for sharing your idea with the rest of us here on the forum. I would like to adapt this system to my manual lathes as I have coolant systems attached to them. I would appreciate the BOM and drawings and will send you a PM with my e-mail address.
I don't have a TL1 but would like to find one or a TL2. I am looking for one with the enclosure, 4 position turret and the high speed 3500 RPM spindle. Should have bought one last year when HAAS had the 28 to 30 percent discounts.
Yes, you have to switch the quick-disconnect between the different toolholders. No, it is not a gang setup. Just the quick-change toolpost. Still better than moving the loc-line.
Eric and John, I think it was on one of the PM forums that a TL owner posted a picture of his gang tool setup.
It was pretty slick, I've done a similar setup on one of my machines and it really speeds things up, even for one-off jobs. I leave 2 small chucks (spot drill and final drill), a CCMT 80 degree insert tool that can both turn and face and a cuttoff tool pretty much mounted in my gang bar all the time and this setup covers 95% of the parts I make. Sometimes I have to add a boring tool in the 5th position.
I made my own gang tool bar, but these guys sell some pretty fairly priced gang bars, if I had seen them first I probably would have just bought one of these-
THE COMPLETE LINE OF TOOL HOLDERS FOR YOUR GANG TURN CNC
Nice job as usual. Regarding the Dorian Jet Stream it is well worth spending the money. I don't use the Jet Stream Tool Holders just regular Kennametal holders and plumb them different. Also have a fixture for drilling and reaming will post pics at work tomorrow.
As promised here are pictures of Jet Stream tool holders and drill and ream coolant.
Picture 1 & 2
I am not familiar with the Jet Stream tool holders. In looking at your pictures 1 & 2 how is the coolant feed to the brass fitting on the back side of the tool holder.
I am presently working on a prototype for my Clausing Manual Lathe and wanted to evaluate your supplied pictures.
I just visited the Dorian Website and got the information to clarify your pictures.
Sounds like you found your answers but if you want more info. or pics let me know.
Has anyone tried to machine regular Aloris or Dorian tool holders to work with the Victory tool post? I tried to stamp numbers in mine and it didn't really work. They are real hard. I'm guessing that machining them might be a pain.
Another Coolant Project
I had a little spare time today and made a prototype coolant adapter for my Clausing 5900 Series Lathe based on the information that you supplied to me. Just thought I would share a link to a video in case there is any interest.
I placed the adapter behind the Aloris AXA adapter so there would be no interference on the cutting side of the tool holder. I also found a quick disconnect adapter that seems to work well with this setup and is self adjusting depending on the angle needed during machining operations. I made an adapter for the turning tool and another one for my cut off tool. I will make additional adapters for my other Aloris tool holders as needed.
Many thanks for the IDEA!
YouTube - Aloris Tool Post Coolant Adapter.wmv
Last edited by HelicopterJohn; 11-01-2010 at 04:01 PM.
Reason: Added Pictures
I wouldn't'a guessed a guy could make 8+ minutes of video on just that idea, but hey....
One thing that I'm thinkin' John - is that you will then need a dummy (deadhead?) receiver somewhere like the tailstock to "hang" the hose when not needed so that it doesn't drip all over the floor.
Think Snow Eh!
You are correct. I could have edited out some of that video.
I will keep you idea of the dead head receiver of the hose during the tool change process. Hose hasn't fallen on the floor yet, but sure it could happen.
We machine copper on our cnc lathe and the swarf does not chip. It comes off in strings and, if it curls around a flexible coolant pipe or nozzle, easily pulls it out of position. Here is my solution. Quick and easy and very effective. This set up is on a turret lathe but PaulTs idea of a sliding bar in a series of posts is very good for a gang tool machine. I wonder if o-rings would be required? The volume of coolant would be such that a little leakage would not matter, I think.
I looked at A, B and C of a dial gauge stand.
Replaced A with a bar of the same diameter that is bolted to the turret, used a spare clamp B and ran a pipe of the same diameter as C through it.
The adjustment range is more than what is needed.
And it delivers coolant rigidly, exactly where needed.