VF2 Z-axis motor removal

Please tell me there's some trick to removing this POS because I just spent a few hours on it and haven't gotten anywhere. I only managed to get one of the four screws loose on the coupling. The head of the bolts are too short and the wrench just keeps on falling off. Even when it does stay on I can't even manage to turn it all because it's so tight.

I've already replaced a few components (Low voltage power supply, new Z servo motor cable, counterbalance topped up) and I'm still getting alarm 105. Swapping the Y/Z amps hasn't caused to alarm to move so I think the problem is with the motor itself. I want to take it to a company that can test it out but first I need to take it off, which is really testing my patience.


Finally got it off after realizing I only had to loosen the collar.

You had me worried! My gearbox is going and I think motor removal is in my future.
Regards, Ray

Rotate the coupler until you see the small set screw in the side and loosen it. Make sure it is the one on the motor side of the coupler. Once the setscrew is loose and the 4 bolts mounting the motor are out you can persuade it with a dead blow to lift out....no need to undo the 4 bolts holding the coupler...There is a small key holding the motor shaft and coupler in place so don't loose that.

sagespecialized said:

Rotate the coupler until you see the small set screw in the side and loosen it. Make sure it is the one on the motor side of the coupler. Once the setscrew is loose and the 4 bolts mounting the motor are out you can persuade it with a dead blow to lift out....no need to undo the 4 bolts holding the coupler...There is a small key holding the motor shaft and coupler in place so don't loose that.

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Just a side note to add. For machines equipped with a brake motor, the same procedure is used to remove, but extra care, preparation, and caution are required when removing. Once the power is turned off, you will no longer be able to turn the motor coupling/ball screw to gain access to the coupling set screw. Also, be certain that you have good support under the head, because the motor is what is holding the head up. If replacing the motor, the replacement motor shaft will most likely be indexed to a different spot than the original so you will need to line up the motor shaft key to the coupling then physically rotate the whole motor to align the mounting bolts. Hope that all makes sense.

As always, don't rush things and be safe!!

Sage,

I finally figured out how to take it off. I got the motor tested and the problem ended up being with the encoder. They said they could get a new encoder and install it for $1750, told them I could get a brand new motor from Haas for $1200. They came back saying they could repair the encoder for $1000 but at that point I may as well get a whole new unit which luckily was in stock. Picked it up this morning and got it installed and finally no more alarms.

Haastec,

Cheers for the advise but I have an older counterbalance machine so it was much easier.

Ouch that's a bit steep for a new encoder. I replaced a Z encoder a few months ago for $360.00 new from the Hass Factory. My motor rebuilds were $900. each (I did 3 of them at one time)...

I glad your issues are solved, good luck!!

When I called the local HFO they said they don't sell the encoder separately. I looked online for an encoder but I couldn't find much other than from China ($450US) or the UK (450 Euros) plus the time waiting for it. My machine has already been down for 2 weeks and I needed it running so I just bit the bullet and bought a new motor. If I find an encoder for a good price at least I'll have a backup motor.