Trying to access the knee elevating bronze nut. looks like you could access the top nut of screw shaft thru top under dust shields but dust shields don't slide back. Any help please. My knee is stiff going up and down. Lube it and it got better but still stiff. Would like to remove and inspect.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Largest Manufacturing Technology Community on the Web
Stay Connected:
Brown and Sharpe no 2 universal knee screw access help.
- Thread starter DMauk
- Start date
- Replies 13
- Views 3,711
Monarchist
Diamond
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2012
- Location
- Sol, Terra
May or may not apply to a B&S. Did this with my Quartet mill.
- Place blocking and jacks to raise the knee to take the load of the nut, but NOT to stress it upward.
- remove three screws in top flange of bronze nut.
- NOW jack the knee up far enough the screw clears "daylight" by nut height Plus.
- block for safety in case the jacks leak or fail.
- run the nut down the screw, remove, clean-up threads, lube it.
- clean and lube screw as well while it is exposed, full-length.
Reverse the above to re-install. NO NEED (on the Quartet) to do anything at the top end of the screw.
Nut should be run FULLY onto the screw before you put weight back onto it.
Mine had a half-turn of damaged thread, top entry. Dug it out, re-shaped the entry edge, it proved good enough to not have to make a new one.
Hoping you are as fortunate!
johnoder
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2004
- Location
- Houston, TX USA
Older ones like so, but of course the NUT is down lower than the drive parts
Note excessive tightening on 297 nut will bind up the upper screw bearing - as far as the knee crank / handwheel is concerned
Ditto on 301 - except that binds up knee handwheel./ crank shaft
Note excessive tightening on 297 nut will bind up the upper screw bearing - as far as the knee crank / handwheel is concerned
Ditto on 301 - except that binds up knee handwheel./ crank shaft
Attachments
Monarchist
Diamond
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2012
- Location
- Sol, Terra
Oye! Different entirely. Fugitive from a bevel-ear factory, that one. I think we need one more 'view'.
Or several fotos from DMauk?
johnoder
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2004
- Location
- Houston, TX USA
Yep, B&S built gear machinery - and probably used some of that product over in the mill making department
Monarchist
Diamond
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2012
- Location
- Sol, Terra
If.. I am reading the section lines correctly, (French, 1920's my drafting text, not the later French & Vierk) the (steel?) tail of gear 295, keyed to shaft of screw 294 runs directly on the CI bore. Probability is pretty high it is carrying impacted black fretting corrosion particles in perished oils.
That could be the major contributor to drag, as 296 appears to be a ball bearing.
Can retaining nut 297 be accessed from a reach up from behind for removal?
johnoder
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2004
- Location
- Houston, TX USA
We probably should determine if the mill is 1860 or 1960. First was 1859
Monarchist
Diamond
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2012
- Location
- Sol, Terra
Technical Ted
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2017
I have the parts list and diagram for my ~1935 B&S 2B horizontal knee mill with a 50 taper, but with this limited information I don't know if it would apply to your machine. What year and model is yours? I completely disassembled mine years ago, cleaned it, made a replacement vertical screw bearing, etc.. On mine, there's a lot more that can bind up than just the screw...
Ted
Ted
Richard King
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2005
- Location
- Cottage Grove, MN 55016
Have you lubricated the column ways? Unlocked the knee or checked to see if the gib screw is missing. It might not be the screw at all.
I did find this too for you: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2185/16641.pdf
I did find this too for you: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2185/16641.pdf
Technical Ted
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2017
Thanks for that link! That's the same document as the one I have a hard copy of. Nice to have it electronically too now.
Ted
Ted
What I have is a 1940'2 era B&S No2 universal horizontal mill light type. The gibs are free and the knee lock backed off. I supported the knee and removed the screws that retain the column that holds the bronze nut. everything turns freely when the nut and column all turn together with screw. There is a bevel gear on top the screw that is retained with a nut. The bevel gear is to large to come out bottom. Looks like you can access this nut from under the dust shields between the saddle ways but I cant figure out how to remove them. I have the operator and parts manual in hard copy. ill try to post some pics once I figure out how. Thanks for all the replies.
Richard King
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2005
- Location
- Cottage Grove, MN 55016
Is That a side cover on the right side ...no number but 510 goes to a bolt or something just above. Maybe you can expose or remove the gear through the side. ??? Just a guess. I am going to message Steve Watkins as he had a B&S mill apart a few years ago. He might remember. Rich
