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Thread: Charbonnel Ink

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    Default Charbonnel Ink

    Richard, and folks using Charbonnel etching ink- how quickly does it dry? Is it easy or a pita to clean up plates etc when dry? One thing I like about Canode is I can still spot with it for two days so I don't use as much and it's super easy to clean up with windex. But I can't get Canode in Canada and am looking for alternatives.

    Regards,
    L7

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    Quote Originally Posted by lucky7 View Post
    I can't get Canode in Canada
    Might check to see if PTS-Canada actually ship Canode as well as listing it in their catalog.

    https://www.pts-canada.com/Catalog_p...ALOG/K1168.pdf

    No affiliation. Just a satisfied customer of "the original" PTS, more than fifty years and still counting.

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    Son of a gun! PTS Canada didn't come up in Google sniffing. Thanks and will check into same tomorrow.

    To be clear, I've had no problems ordering from the usual Detroit source for scraping stuff including Canode, tis just expensive with the 49th parallel issues and a Canadian source would be wunderbar...

    Lucky7

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    I sent a sample to the Canadian testing several years ago. UPS required it before I could ship it to Taiwan. It came back non hazardous. Just helped BIAX Germany get Canode accepted by the EU so it can be shipped and sold in Europe. BIAX bought cases of it. I have been promoting, using and selling Canode for 30 years and like the stuff. They formulated the orange color after I requested it. I have a lot of history using it!

    The new ink Tom Lipton (OX Tool on YouTube) brought the ink to the scraping class we had 10 days ago to test compare to the Canode.

    We compared it one side of granite plate Canode and other side the Charbonnel (CH) and everyone preferred the Charbonnel. The darker color which reminded me of Dykem which I love and it blues up better then Canode, but it stains everything including your fingers and plates.

    The CH cleaned up with the Windex. We used the soft foam roller to apply it and then re-rolled it with the hard rollers. The plate was a black and I saw no difference in clean up. It did not stain my hands.

    Stan (Lucky) you are one of my students, do you think I would recommend it if I didn't think it was better?

    Hell I have a couple of cases of Canode in stock and will use it until it's gone and start buying the CH paste. It will be easier to bring to the classes too. I am not sure Tom is a member on here, but he has a huge following on You Tube. I think he is going to do a You Tube on the class and hopefully he talk about the new ink.

    Jon Brooks who was the class coordinator of the class filmed the class he goes by NWA Northwestairguns as he builds and repairs air guns. I suspect he will have or has a YT show on the class. I will try to find a link and add it here. Tom L said he wanted to "learn" at the class and not film it. Quite the compliment don't you think? I never tried the Yellow CH as a substitute for the Canode highlighter ink (same as blue, but yellow). I suspect it will work the same by diluting it with Windex to dull the glare of the shinny iron. Rich

    PS: I just bought some from Amazon of the CH; Prussian Blue, Yellow and Red to test it next week in the VT class. I'll report back.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180406_164554.jpg  

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    These products are fundamentally the same. Canode and any water washable ink are all made using sulfanated oil, which is water soluble. I would guess they use sulfanated castor oil.

    You can (and I have) make your own using sulfanated oil and fine pigment powder (prussian blue or various iron oxides). These things are both available from art supply houses or companies that sell products for making soap.

    But, what I learned is that it's cheaper to just buy Canode or whatever than to buy the ingredients to make it yourself.

    I guess it's OK to thin it with Windex, but Windex is mostly water. Once you cut the ink with Windex, you cannot leave it on a cast iron surface for very long (say more than 24 hours) or it will stain it and eventually cause rust.

    It would be better to thin it with more sulfanated oil. But, if you used the wrong oil I suppose it could upset the suspension of the pigment.

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    Wes how long have you been scraping? 5 years? I have been scraping for 50 + years. I do not dilute the ink with Windex, I dilute the Yellow highlighter or "red lead substitute" with Windex. I also clean the granite surface plates with Windex. It evaporates fast after it is wiped off. I used to sell Tru-Stone / Starrett surface plates and they sell a plate cleaner that in basically red Windex.

    If you took my class I have offered for free to you, you would know. I also tell students NOT to use Windex on Canode bluing unless you working in a 100 degree HOT shop. I also teach if you blue something up, to scrape it off and to clean it off plates, straight-edges and parts that the inks are on before leaving the shop for the day, oil the cast iron.

    I assumed Lucky was covering the Straight-edge so lint in the air didn't pollute the inks. Lucky has been scraping as long as you have been, maybe more. I would trust his writing more then yours any day of the week. I have been thinking of commenting on your You Tube on the comments, but haven't yet.

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    What crawled up your ass?

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    Just setting the record straight is all.. have a nice day :-)

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    I've only been scraping part time for a year. I don't know much about the subject.

    Lucky7

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    Lucky here is some interesting info for you.
    Monday Night Meatloaf 117 - YouTube

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    Quote Originally Posted by lucky7 View Post
    Son of a gun! PTS Canada didn't come up in Google sniffing. Thanks and will check into same tomorrow.
    I cheat and OFTEN have my bookmarks on google.ca
    A great deal lower percentage of hard-sell trash adverts and kinda nice to read world news that isn't all about Trump, the Kardashie's hams, or which community near where they THINK my IP is had drive by drug gang shootings or teacher-student sex earlier today. US ain't really as bad a place as portrayed, but our media are feeding a lot of sensation-vultures amongst us.

    To be clear, I've had no problems ordering from the usual Detroit source for scraping stuff including Canode, tis just expensive with the 49th parallel issues and a Canadian source would be wunderbar...

    Lucky7
    I use Cromwells, UK often enough. Zero hassle, so far. Not the cheapest way to operate, but they do have some odds and sods as are hard to find, NAFTA turf.

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    I am glad you guys brought this up. I saw Tom Lipton You tube mention of it last night and was going to quiz Richard on it next week when I see him. Looks like I will not have to now as he is bringing some of this ink with him.

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    Charbonnel sounds like a French wine.

    I see Tom Lipton needs to get the cane whipped over his knuckles for resting his arms on the surface plate like that.

    Actually that was lesson #1 in Phil's classes. You do not rest like that on a surface plate you are about to use.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RC99 View Post
    Charbonnel sounds like a French wine.
    Thot is was Loszeanna Arcadian French for Barbequed hat, meself.
    Actually that was lesson #1 in Phil's classes. You do not rest like that on a surface plate you are about to use.
    Or ever... check out a single day's debris on work clothing. Sizes you can SEE.

    Want ten or twenty years worth of that plus the 98% you CANNOT see even attempting to abuse a precision SP?

    Not I.

    Knew there was something I liked about Phil.


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    Hey Richard, heres the video we shot in Vacaville last week;


    Scraping Class with Richard King, Part I, Vacaville, CA - April 218 - YouTube

    Scraping Class with Richard King, Part II, Vacaville, CA April 218 - YouTube


    As for the bluing dye, I see Dapra has 'prussian blue' in their catalog along with the regular spotting ink, last page;

    https://www.dapra.com/tech/dloads/Da...axScrapers.pdf

    Personally, I though Toms stuff worked great, and was easier to read than the spotting dye you brought. Contrasts were easier to see, at least for me.

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    The German paste is good, but stains like Dykem. That's why the Canode I sold them must have been 200 - 8 once bottles and 50 - 12 bottle 1 1/2 once bottles sold out in a few months. When I was over there last November/ December all they had were 1 gallon jugs. They had bought 16 gallons of Blue and Yellow. No one likes getting their hands stained. eelerone...I take that is Jon?

    I just answered a letter from a company in Oregon who wants to do some classes . I am thinking they could be advanced classes as they have several conventional and CNC machines to rebuild in a class. :-) Dang hard to retire....

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    Now that I have your attention everyone I have a BIAX 1/2 moon flaker on Ebay ....a real deal....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard King View Post
    Now that I have your attention everyone I have a BIAX 1/2 moon flaker on Ebay ....a real deal....


    Only 3 times what I paid for mine.

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    But mine is special... I autographed it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard King View Post
    But mine is special... I autographed it.
    If you used but two initials?

    SERIOUSLY valuable then!

    Put an "A" in front of those, claim it used by Noah & Sons on a crucial naval contract.

    You know ebay...


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