Clausing 5914 - Page 2
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 50

Thread: Clausing 5914

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Central PA
    Posts
    526
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    27

    Default

    Take a look at the green coating on the hub of the lower pulley. That seems to be the one that wears.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Georgia
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard King View Post
    You can make a cross-feed screw by using your key way end of your worn screw. Figure out the pitch of the screw and go to Green Bay Manufacturing

    and cut up the old screw and bore a hole in the ends and turn down the screw to press in the old screws ends, loc-tite and taper pin them together.
    Hard to explain. Green bay also has bronze nuts you machine the new nut so it will replace the old.

    Trust me, I thought about that already. I am fairly confident that I myself would lack the ability to take on this project but I do believe the concept would work just fine. I was hoping I could find a lead screw with a bore in it already which could be fine tuned/bored to fit but so far no luck. I would assume with such long work needed on such small diameter parts a following rest would be required to make this happen. If I did my research right the screw is 5/8-10 but maybe I should just go measure mine. hahah

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Georgia
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    I have not had time to mess with the lathe today but I did take apart the Slave cylinder on the VS. It was leaking pretty heavily when I added fluid so I expected to find bad O rings which I did in fact find. I think a rebuild of the Master cylinder and slave cylinder will fix that portion of the VS drive. I did see that both of the pulleys moved freely in and out which was a nice surprise. Like i had said before all those drive pulleys and shafts were oil up well and there is no rust at all on any of those components.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Central PA
    Posts
    526
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    27

    Default

    On my lathe, the hydraulic oil had leaked onto the lower pulley and the green epoxy coating had lifted off. I replaced the coating with JB weld mixed with graphite. I forget in which forum I posted the process. It may have been in the Yahoo Clausing group. I'm out several years now and the home made "Moglice" is still working. If I were to do it over again, I think I'd glue a wrap of Rulon to the hub in place of an epoxy coating.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Georgia
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RLamparter View Post
    On my lathe, the hydraulic oil had leaked onto the lower pulley and the green epoxy coating had lifted off. I replaced the coating with JB weld mixed with graphite. I forget in which forum I posted the process. It may have been in the Yahoo Clausing group. I'm out several years now and the home made "Moglice" is still working. If I were to do it over again, I think I'd glue a wrap of Rulon to the hub in place of an epoxy coating.
    Not sure which pulley is supposed to have green epoxy coating on it but I do not see any pulleys that have a coating of any kind. My lathe has the older style VS drive and much of the parts look different to me. I have not been able to find a manual or parts sheet for my version of the VS drive.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Georgia
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    I purchased a complete carriage with cross slide and compound and to my surprise they are in great shape with very little backlash. Purchased it due to the thought that I very well may sell the tapper attachment and I wanted to be able to sell it complete with the dial and all (if I do sell it) I also wanted to take a chance on the compound having less back lash and it sure enough does and by a huge margin. The only issue is the compound had the hand the shaft where the hand wheel goes cut off for some reason, It is sure a shame as the screw is in great shape. I guess I could possibly weld and turn down the shaft to make it work again but the real issue on my compound was the brass nut not the screw. Anyhow, I guess this was not a bad purchase for $150, just two new brass nuts for the cross slide and compound would have been close to $100 alone.

    20180209_132949.jpg

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    moscow,ohio
    Posts
    4,512
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    451
    Likes (Received)
    1346

    Default

    You will hate yourself later if you sell your taper....you won't find another.

    Short term gain,but long term kicking yourself in the buttocks.

  8. Likes Paolo_MD, JohnEvans liked this post
  9. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Georgia
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by iwananew10K View Post
    You will hate yourself later if you sell your taper....you won't find another.

    Short term gain,but long term kicking yourself in the buttocks.
    You know, I was researching it and long tapers are the only real benefit. Maybe I am not considering future projects but nothing comes to mind that will require a long taper. I am not positive I will sell it but I figured its an option. I agree, The only taper attachments I have seen are for other model lathes not the 5900 series.

    Just curious, Would there be any issue with dropping on this complete carriage to my lathe bed? Was not sure if such parts are ground as a matching pair or what.

  10. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    moscow,ohio
    Posts
    4,512
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    451
    Likes (Received)
    1346

    Default

    It's not just Long tapers,it's all tapers...though I have done it many times cutting tapers with the compound is a PITA...no way to really keep a nice constant feed rate and then you have to deal with the inconsistencies from that.

    Don't slap another saddle on, they are fitted to their beds.

  11. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Damascus, MD
    Posts
    1,021
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2853
    Likes (Received)
    512

    Default

    Mike,
    Probably, you're already aware of it, but a carriage is not a drop-in replacement and it needs to be hand-fitted (mostly by scraping) to the bed of your lathe.

    Paolo

  12. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Georgia
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by iwananew10K View Post
    It's not just Long tapers,it's all tapers...though I have done it many times cutting tapers with the compound is a PITA...no way to really keep a nice constant feed rate and then you have to deal with the inconsistencies from that.

    Don't slap another saddle on, they are fitted to their beds.
    I kind of figured there would be issue with putting the complete saddle on my lathe. Now the cross slide and compound should transfer over no problem right?

  13. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Phoenix,AZ
    Posts
    1,366
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2183
    Likes (Received)
    303

    Default

    If you call Clausing with your serial number they will send you the manual with parts list FREE !! PDF file of course.

  14. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Georgia
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnEvans View Post
    If you call Clausing with your serial number they will send you the manual with parts list FREE !! PDF file of course.
    Thanks for that info. I had found a manual for a later model 5914 but it lacked details on my drive system. I will give them a call next week.

  15. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Damascus, MD
    Posts
    1,021
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2853
    Likes (Received)
    512

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gmikehall View Post
    I kind of figured there would be issue with putting the complete saddle on my lathe. Now the cross slide and compound should transfer over no problem right?
    Same issue with the cross-slide: the dovetails need to be hand fitted by scraping (and kept parallel while doing that). Compound could be swapped with minimal, if any touch-up, given that the base is bolted to the cross-slide. Just make sure that the contact between the two surfaces is good.

    Paolo
    Last edited by Paolo_MD; 02-10-2018 at 02:03 PM. Reason: Removing wandering "S" at the end and adding signature

  16. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Georgia
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    I guess that is not a huge problem as there is nothing wrong with my cross slide. I think getting into scraping the dove tail may be a little out of my skill level at the moment not to mention no tools to carry out such a task. Thinking about it, wouldn't it be easier to scrap the carriage to fit the lathe ways than to try to fit the dove tail from the cross slide to my carriage? Really just thinking out loud as I have no reason to swap any of those components but it would be easier if my thinking it correct.

  17. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Coventry RI
    Posts
    932
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    968
    Likes (Received)
    714

    Default

    While I understand your enthusiasm to make your new lathe as good as it can be, I really feel that you are overthinking things and if you keep on this road you risk screwing up a perfectly good machine!
    Unless there is a completely ridiculous amount of backlash in the screw/nut assembly, it is really NOT a big problem. Big problems start when someone who doesn't know what they are doing starts swapping out parts between machines without understanding the procedures to do so. The nuts can be swapped, the complete compound assembly can be swapped,(as already stated) but go no further. There is no real need to. As I said in an earlier post, disassemble, clean, lube, and adjust. It will be as good as it's gonna get, short of a rebuild, at that point. Change the nuts if you want, maybe it will give you less backlash, either way, don't worry about it!
    Concentrate on getting the variable speed working right. It DOES need attention.dscn1653.jpg
    Your motor pulley should look something like this when apart. That's the green coating that has been mentioned. It slides in the other side of the pulley which has a white plasic(teflon???)bushing. The green coating is very thin and apparently has a habit of wearing away and causing problems. On my machine it was ok and was a nice fit in the bushing.
    The counter shaft has a similar arrangement.
    If you want more pics of what I had, let me know. My machine did not have a clutch, so it's a little different but I think most parts will be similar.


    On edit: I'm not trying to scold you, just trying to help! Sorry if this post comes off that way.

  18. Likes Paolo_MD liked this post
  19. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Georgia
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Smalls View Post
    While I understand your enthusiasm to make your new lathe as good as it can be, I really feel that you are overthinking things and if you keep on this road you risk screwing up a perfectly good machine!
    Unless there is a completely ridiculous amount of backlash in the screw/nut assembly, it is really NOT a big problem. Big problems start when someone who doesn't know what they are doing starts swapping out parts between machines without understanding the procedures to do so. The nuts can be swapped, the complete compound assembly can be swapped,(as already stated) but go no further. There is no real need to. As I said in an earlier post, disassemble, clean, lube, and adjust. It will be as good as it's gonna get, short of a rebuild, at that point. Change the nuts if you want, maybe it will give you less backlash, either way, don't worry about it!
    Concentrate on getting the variable speed working right. It DOES need attention.dscn1653.jpg
    Your motor pulley should look something like this when apart. That's the green coating that has been mentioned. It slides in the other side of the pulley which has a white plasic(teflon???)bushing. The green coating is very thin and apparently has a habit of wearing away and causing problems. On my machine it was ok and was a nice fit in the bushing.
    The counter shaft has a similar arrangement.
    If you want more pics of what I had, let me know. My machine did not have a clutch, so it's a little different but I think most parts will be similar.


    On edit: I'm not trying to scold you, just trying to help! Sorry if this post comes off that way.
    Ouch,that hurt. haha JK

    I have no problem with getting scolded when headed in the wrong direction. I also agree there is no point in moving anything besides possibly the screws and brass nuts over to my machine and i pretty much purchased the whole carriage assembly for what two brass nuts would cost.

    Moving on to the VS drive. My drive pulley does not have any green coating at all, It has a bronze bushing.Here are some pictures of my VS drive pulley setup. Like I said its different than the newer machines. There looks as if there should be a bronze pin that rides in the key way but that pin looks to have been sheered off? You can see it in the picture of the bronze bushing in the outer pulley half.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180210_142000.jpg   20180210_142019.jpg   20180210_142142.jpg   20180210_142030.jpg  

  20. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    moscow,ohio
    Posts
    4,512
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    451
    Likes (Received)
    1346

  21. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Georgia
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    Wow, Thanks for the link. That manual works for my lathe. I do not see any mention of the pin on the outer VS drive pulley. The pin looks to be pressed in, there is no means of screwing it in our out and its perfectly flush with the outside of the sleeve so it must have been pressed in then machined even with the outside of the sleeve.I guess I could fabricate a new one and press it in unless I discover it is held in place by some other means.

  22. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Georgia
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    OK, after looking through the manual I did not see the key for the drive pulley but there is what looks to be the very same key on the secondary pulley. Can anyone confirm that they are the same? I am assuming both upper and lower pulleys are designed the same so its very likely they are the same part. I guess I should give clausing a call tomorrow to find out. The horror stories I have read on there pricing may result in me making my own.

    I also finally got a break in the weather and a cleared out spot to move the lathe inside my tiny shop.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails clausing-pulley-key-422-024.jpg   20180212_175717.jpg  


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •